Should Cut / Buff come out as good as freshly painted Clear?

Lizer said:
Why do you use the 510 and not the 500?

I'm also conflicted now seeing Megs M100 vs the ACA 510! I've been using Chem Guys V36 on Hexalogic foam but it has almost not cutting, so I want to switch compounds and pad, and also go to one of the dry sanding films that have been thrown around a lot here. I just loathe wet sanding.

Regarding wool pads, I have a Wizards wool pad, are they any good? I haven't used wool very much at all.
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510 is a little more aggressive than 500. Both work fine. I have been tempted to try the M100 but I have plenty of 510 on hand.

The only wet sanding I do is Trizact 8000 on a DA.

I haven’t tried that wizards wool pad. I’ve used Presta black wool and the 3D yellow wool. I prefer the 3D yellow aside from the stupid price. The presta wool pads fling a lot of wool around the shop.

Don
 
Lizer said:
Why do you use the 510 and not the 500?

I'm also conflicted now seeing Megs M100 vs the ACA 510! I've been using Chem Guys V36 on Hexalogic foam but it has almost not cutting, so I want to switch compounds and pad, and also go to one of the dry sanding films that have been thrown around a lot here. I just loathe wet sanding.

Regarding wool pads, I have a Wizards wool pad, are they any good? I haven't used wool very much at all.
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I love the Lake Country line of pads. Go to Harbor Freight and get a qt of the M100, $30.
 
Everyone has their preferance. I usually hand sand 1500, 2500,3000. Wool pad on rotary with heavy cut compound (Shine Supply Chop Top). Followed by da polisher with meguiers microfiber pad and compound (Shine Supply Classic Cut). Finished with lake country orange foam pad on da polisher with polish (Shine Supply Classic polish). I like this system.
People over complicate though. I used to do all my buffing/polishing with a $30 rotary with excellent results, using the 3M perfect it system (which i do not like).
 
My biggest problem with 3M, aside from the fact they used fillers, was that the polishing compound would spatter and if you didn't remove it immediately it would literally be almost impossible to remove. The greyish black stuff. Can't remember the exact name. It was Perfect-It. Years ago I made a huge mess with a black 57 Chevy a guy brought me to buff. Was using the Perfect-It and didn't clean up all the polishing spatter right away. Got distracted by someone else coming in, and left it as it sat till the next morning. Stuff was impossible to remove all of it. Ended up having to use a razor blade to get the spatter spots off. Once I learned there were alternatives to 3M, I switched and will NEVER go back to that crap.
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
My biggest problem with 3M, aside from the fact they used fillers, was that the polishing compound would spatter and if you didn't remove it immediately it would literally be almost impossible to remove. The greyish black stuff. Can't remember the exact name. It was Perfect-It. Years ago I made a huge mess with a black 57 Chevy a guy brought me to buff. Was using the Perfect-It and didn't clean up all the polishing spatter right away. Got distracted by someone else coming in, and left it as it sat till the next morning. Stuff was impossible to remove all of it. Ended up having to use a razor blade to get the spatter spots off. Once I learned there were alternatives to 3M, I switched and will NEVER go back to that crap.
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Yea 3m sucks for all those reasons. I was just trying to make a point that even with a $30 buffer and less than optimal products, you can still get a good finish. Luckily there are more products on the market to choose from these days.
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
My biggest problem with 3M, ...and if you didn't remove it immediately it would literally be almost impossible to remove.
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This has been my experience with Chemical Guys polishes too. I still have spatter spots on my 67 Mustang from 2015 that I haven't been able to remove...or just lack the gumption too. I think the only way I can remove them is to hit the area with trizact and then rebuff. They would not come out just from trying to buff more alone.

So lesson learned, I always wipe up the spatter right away now.
 
dhutton01 said:
You are missing on all counts. Never going to get there on that path. You need a rotary.

3D ACA 510 compound on a wool pad. Their yellow wool pad is awesome.
3D ACA 520 polish on a foam pad

Don
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Which color foam do you prefer for the 520 step?
 
Lizer said:
Why do you use the 510 and not the 500?

I'm also conflicted now seeing Megs M100 vs the ACA 510! I've been using Chem Guys V36 on Hexalogic foam but it has almost not cutting, so I want to switch compounds and pad, and also go to one of the dry sanding films that have been thrown around a lot here. I just loathe wet sanding.

Regarding wool pads, I have a Wizards wool pad, are they any good? I haven't used wool very much at all.
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36 is not the cutting compound. if you start with 32 you will see a difference.
if you have splatter, you're doing it wrong. too much compound and not working it into the pad before you start. i get almost 0 dust from CG's. 4 drops on pad then work it in with a stir stick, clean pad every 3rd application.
 
shine said:
36 is not the cutting compound. if you start with 32 you will see a difference.
if you have splatter, you're doing it wrong. too much compound and not working it into the pad before you start. i get almost 0 dust from CG's. 4 drops on pad then work it in with a stir stick, clean pad every 3rd application.
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Yes I meant 32 not 36. I have all 4 but but start with VF32. I do the same process as you. 4 drops and clean frequently.
 
Dean Jenkins said:
Eagle has starter kits that come with blocks, interface pad and hand pad. Go way to try it out.
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Tell me more about this Dean. I’ve read how the K scale works which is pretty cool, but why do they start with such a low grit and only go to 1500?

I’d like to switch to this system from the Megs unigrit wet paper I’ve been using but the options are overwhelming. Would like to do machine sanding but figure I’d probably need some hand blocks for hard to reach areas.
 
Lizer said:
Tell me more about this Dean. I’ve read how the K scale works which is pretty cool, but why do they start with such a low grit and only go to 1500?

I’d like to switch to this system from the Megs unigrit wet paper I’ve been using but the options are overwhelming. Would like to do machine sanding but figure I’d probably need some hand blocks for hard to reach areas.
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You switch to Buflex above 1500.
 
I'm just not a huge fan of the Kovax paper. Initially it cuts great. But, I find it loads up fast. I turn the paper a bit, as JimC says. Cuts a bit, then turn again. It wrinkles easily too. Maybe I'm not doing something right but for the price difference, I may stick with the more traditional paper.
 
AAE said:
I'm just not a huge fan of the Kovax paper. Initially it cuts great. But, I find it loads up fast. I turn the paper a bit, as JimC says. Cuts a bit, then turn again. It wrinkles easily too. Maybe I'm not doing something right but for the price difference, I may stick with the more traditional paper.
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I can burn through quite a bit on a car but I only do a couple of cars a year so the cost doesn’t bother me. If I was in a production environment it would likely be an issue.

Typically two discs per grit per panel but I only use Assilex1500 and Buflex 2500. I use yellow discs for 1000.

Don
 
if you dont like the eagle yellow discs, switch to the sumight film discs for 1000 or 1500. i hate to say it but i stopped using the eagle yellow a while back. the sunmight cuts a tad slower but it last way longer than the yellow and the film is thicker so it cuts a bit flatter.

1500g #01422
1000g #01420
 
Jim C said:
if you dont like the eagle yellow discs, switch to the sumight film discs for 1000 or 1500. i hate to say it but i stopped using the eagle yellow a while back. the sunmight cuts a tad slower but it last way longer than the yellow and the film is thicker so it cuts a bit flatter.

1500g #01422
1000g #01420
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For sale: 2 boxes of Yellow disc's. ISO : 2 boxes of Sunmight.
 
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