Should I block this 2K ?

[adrynalinjunkie]

I finally after a few years have both new 1/4 panels on the Chevelle. I used SPI epoxy over the bare steel then did my filler work.

BTW I WAY over-do my filler. I blocked the filler and glaze with dry powder guide coat and A.F.S (adjustable Flex Sanders) first with 80 then with 180. So the little bit of filler work I did do on these new 1/4 panels is pretty damn straight (if I do say so myself)

I then shot a few coats of epoxy over the filler and glaze areas and blocked with dry guide coat and 180 to get the orange peel out of the epoxy. (Thank god I am a hobiest and have time on my side, huh?)

Today I put 3 coats of SPI 2K regular build on over the 180 dry bocked epoxy.

Here is where I am unsure of what to try.

In the past I have wet sanded the 2K with 400 then dry guide coated and wet sanded once more with 600. then I would base and clear with acceptable results.

Since this is my hobby car (not a show car) but a nice drag car should I bother blocking the 2K now with what 150 dry, then 320 dry or what do you guys suggest?

After blocking the 2K with 320 dry and everything is perfectly straight then what?

I could either shoot a few more coats of 2K and do my old tried and true 400 wet followed by more dry guide coat and 600 wet. (Yes I have been bit in the butt by stopping after 400 wet sanding the 2K that is why I go over once more with 600 wet, to get the 400 scratches out, before I start with the base and clear)

Anyway, the other route I was considering trying was once this 2K is straight with 150 then 320 dry blocking I could spay a few coats of epoxy as a sealer reduced what say 20%?

Then come back after a week and wet sand the epoxy sealer with what 400 wet then 600 wet? before moving on to base and clear?

I NEVER have good luck shooting sealer wet and then trying to base right over the wet sealer a hour later. I either run the sealer somewhere or the over-spray and / or trash nibs in the sealer scare me and I end up waiting a few days and sanding before base. So applying the sealer wet is to stressful to me as a armature.

So what do you vote I try? Remember the filler work under this 2K is DAMN close if not perfect, I promise.

This SPI 2K reg build is great BTW. UPol, Iwata and SPI are 3 brand names that I am always VERY happy with.

 

[Bob Hollinshead]

What color or colors? Looking for the best durability? Looking for the easiest route/less time/labor or willing to work more for the best results?

Epoxy as a sealer provides your best durability when it's basecoated at the optimum recoat time, grit selection when final sanding is more critical with metallic colors than solids.

 

[Bondoskimmer]

wet sand it with 600 if you want. especially if you are going metallic. when i wet sand i stop using dry guide coat at that point i change to spray guide coat. no need for sealer.

 

[Bob Hollinshead]

I could spay a few coats of epoxy as a sealer reduced what say 20%?

Then come back after a week and wet sand the epoxy sealer with what 400 wet then 600 wet? before moving on to base and clear?

I NEVER have good luck shooting sealer wet and then trying to base right over the wet sealer a hour later. I either run the sealer somewhere or the over-spray and / or trash nibs in the sealer scare me and I end up waiting a few days and sanding before base. So applying the sealer wet is to stressful to me as a armature.

.

*You only need one thin coat of epoxy mixed as a sealer.

*Waiting a week to sand the epoxy sealer is a no no because it will be out of the recoat window and adhesion of the base will compromised. You'd be better off shooting the sealer, waiting an hour and applying a few coats of activated base or intercoat then let it set 12hrs and denib any trash, remove any runs or texture with 800 or 1000 grit wetsanding, then shoot more base, then clear. Just make sure the basecoat you're using will allow sanding if you go this route.

*Epoxy mixed 1:1:1 sprays well as a sealer for me, one thin coat makes a world of difference in durability, chip resistance. If you can get the sealer to go on well you'll save a whole lotta time and work.

 

[adrynalinjunkie]

What color or colors? Looking for the best durability? Looking for the easiest route/less time/labor or willing to work more for the best results?

Epoxy as a sealer provides your best durability when it's basecoated at the optimum recoat time, grit selection when final sanding is more critical with metallic colors than solids.

I am willing to work for better results this car will never have mirrors under it at the car show. But I do want it to be nice. It is a 67' Chevelle with laser straight new quarters.

Now that I think it is pretty straight and I have a few coats of 2K primmer over it...

I am thinking of dry blocking this gray SPI 2K with P220 dry followed by P320 dry. Shoot another 1 or 2 coats of buff or yellow 2K regular build and then wet sanding that with 400 followed by 600 wet.

I am tempted at that point to shoot my HOK PBC 32 Tangelo orange over the SPI 2K buff that has been wet sanded to 600 grit.

If you guys really think it is worth it I will shoot 1 coat of 1:1:1 epoxy but I bet I run it because it will be white epoxy and I almost always run the white it covers so poorly. That is why I switched to black epoxy for base. That white will run all over on me.
If I did run it I would what wait 2-3 days then wet sand with 600 or 800 to get the runs flat and then top coat before the epoxy window closes?

Does that dry block the 2K reg. build with P220 then P320 sound good?

Followed by a few coats of buff 2K and wet sand with 400 then 600 with a soft interface pad?

 

[Jorge M.]

I am willing to work for better results this car will never have mirrors under it at the car show. But I do want it to be nice. It is a 67' Chevelle with laser straight new quarters.

Now that I think it is pretty straight and I have a few coats of 2K primmer over it...

I am thinking of dry blocking this gray SPI 2K with P220 dry followed by P320 dry. Shoot another 1 or 2 coats of buff or yellow 2K regular build and then wet sanding that with 400 followed by 600 wet.

I am tempted at that point to shoot my HOK PBC 32 Tangelo orange over the SPI 2K buff that has been wet sanded to 600 grit.

If you guys really think it is worth it I will shoot 1 coat of 1:1:1 epoxy but I bet I run it because it will be white epoxy and I almost always run the white it covers so poorly. That is why I switched to black epoxy for base. That white will run all over on me.
If I did run it I would what wait 2-3 days then wet sand with 600 or 800 to get the runs flat and then top coat before the epoxy window closes?

Does that dry block the 2K reg. build with P220 then P320 sound good?

Followed by a few coats of buff 2K and wet sand with 400 then 600 with a soft interface pad?

Hmmm I think I'm confused in here.... you say you want to shoot SPI 2K buff then Tangelo orange over it, but then you shy away from shooting Epoxy 1:1:1 because it is white, is there a way for you to mix white and a little black epoxy so that it will be a very very light gray, I figure this would almost be the same as spraying tangelo orange on top of buff 2K?

That way you can shoot it easier now that is not white, and Tangelo orange coverage won't be any worse than shooting it in top of buff 2K, epoxy at 1:1:1 is super easy to shoot, try it out on a big test panel, if I can shoot it, anyone can lol.

 

[Bob Hollinshead]

When you shoot the white sealer coat of epoxy don't apply it by looking at the coverage-instead concentrate on applying a thin wet coat, shoot two coats if you need full coverage or apply a coat of white base. The sealer coat of epoxy may sound like a PITA but durability is so much better.

 

[adrynalinjunkie]

Hmmm I think I'm confused in here.... you say you want to shoot SPI 2K buff then Tangelo orange over it, but then you shy away from shooting Epoxy 1:1:1 because it is white, is there a way for you to mix white and a little black epoxy so that it will be a very very light gray, I figure this would almost be the same as spraying tangelo orange on top of buff 2K?

That way you can shoot it easier now that is not white, and Tangelo orange coverage won't be any worse than shooting it in top of buff 2K, epoxy at 1:1:1 is super easy to shoot, try it out on a big test panel, if I can shoot it, anyone can lol.

That there is a great idea. I will add a little black to the white epoxy as sealer!

 

[Jim C]

the sealer doesn't have to cover. 1 coat is all you will need with epoxy sealer. at 1:1:1 it won't cover so don't try to. its just going down like a quick adhesion promoter, nothing more. as for the sanding, if it was me and my car and it was fairly straight already i would block with 320 then buzz a da over it with 600 to remove the scratches and i would be good to go. if it needs a little more blocking then start with 220 or 180 then jump to 320 with a final buzz with a da and a soft pad with 600. once its straight the da won't change what you have. it will just refine the sanding scratches.

 

[Panelwagon62]

With that line of HOK you need a ground base coat, I just did a job with pbc 31 sunset pearl and I used a "peach" almost pink ground coat before the pearl. If you use just the straight pearl over epoxy sealer or any sealer I don't think you will be very happy with the results. Your pretty much using a tri stage system.

 

[adrynalinjunkie]

Yea I shot it over white epoxy sealer and it was allot brighter than when I shot it over gray test cards.

 

[Panelwagon62]

That's where you will really be able to fine tune that color. Over grey it looks like poo.

 

[Jim C]

Tangelo always looks best over bright pure white. It can be sealer, primer, epoxy or base. Doesnt matter as long as its white. Needs to be a flawless white. Any marks, specks or dark spots will show through to your orange since it covers very poorly. Thats one of those colors that really uses a base color to work.