A
adrynalinjunkie
I finally after a few years have both new 1/4 panels on the Chevelle. I used SPI epoxy over the bare steel then did my filler work.
BTW I WAY over-do my filler. I blocked the filler and glaze with dry powder guide coat and A.F.S (adjustable Flex Sanders) first with 80 then with 180. So the little bit of filler work I did do on these new 1/4 panels is pretty damn straight (if I do say so myself)
I then shot a few coats of epoxy over the filler and glaze areas and blocked with dry guide coat and 180 to get the orange peel out of the epoxy. (Thank god I am a hobiest and have time on my side, huh?)
Today I put 3 coats of SPI 2K regular build on over the 180 dry bocked epoxy.
Here is where I am unsure of what to try.
In the past I have wet sanded the 2K with 400 then dry guide coated and wet sanded once more with 600. then I would base and clear with acceptable results.
Since this is my hobby car (not a show car) but a nice drag car should I bother blocking the 2K now with what 150 dry, then 320 dry or what do you guys suggest?
After blocking the 2K with 320 dry and everything is perfectly straight then what?
I could either shoot a few more coats of 2K and do my old tried and true 400 wet followed by more dry guide coat and 600 wet. (Yes I have been bit in the butt by stopping after 400 wet sanding the 2K that is why I go over once more with 600 wet, to get the 400 scratches out, before I start with the base and clear)
Anyway, the other route I was considering trying was once this 2K is straight with 150 then 320 dry blocking I could spay a few coats of epoxy as a sealer reduced what say 20%?
Then come back after a week and wet sand the epoxy sealer with what 400 wet then 600 wet? before moving on to base and clear?
I NEVER have good luck shooting sealer wet and then trying to base right over the wet sealer a hour later. I either run the sealer somewhere or the over-spray and / or trash nibs in the sealer scare me and I end up waiting a few days and sanding before base. So applying the sealer wet is to stressful to me as a armature.
So what do you vote I try? Remember the filler work under this 2K is DAMN close if not perfect, I promise.
This SPI 2K reg build is great BTW. UPol, Iwata and SPI are 3 brand names that I am always VERY happy with.
BTW I WAY over-do my filler. I blocked the filler and glaze with dry powder guide coat and A.F.S (adjustable Flex Sanders) first with 80 then with 180. So the little bit of filler work I did do on these new 1/4 panels is pretty damn straight (if I do say so myself)
I then shot a few coats of epoxy over the filler and glaze areas and blocked with dry guide coat and 180 to get the orange peel out of the epoxy. (Thank god I am a hobiest and have time on my side, huh?)
Today I put 3 coats of SPI 2K regular build on over the 180 dry bocked epoxy.
Here is where I am unsure of what to try.
In the past I have wet sanded the 2K with 400 then dry guide coated and wet sanded once more with 600. then I would base and clear with acceptable results.
Since this is my hobby car (not a show car) but a nice drag car should I bother blocking the 2K now with what 150 dry, then 320 dry or what do you guys suggest?
After blocking the 2K with 320 dry and everything is perfectly straight then what?
I could either shoot a few more coats of 2K and do my old tried and true 400 wet followed by more dry guide coat and 600 wet. (Yes I have been bit in the butt by stopping after 400 wet sanding the 2K that is why I go over once more with 600 wet, to get the 400 scratches out, before I start with the base and clear)
Anyway, the other route I was considering trying was once this 2K is straight with 150 then 320 dry blocking I could spay a few coats of epoxy as a sealer reduced what say 20%?
Then come back after a week and wet sand the epoxy sealer with what 400 wet then 600 wet? before moving on to base and clear?
I NEVER have good luck shooting sealer wet and then trying to base right over the wet sealer a hour later. I either run the sealer somewhere or the over-spray and / or trash nibs in the sealer scare me and I end up waiting a few days and sanding before base. So applying the sealer wet is to stressful to me as a armature.
So what do you vote I try? Remember the filler work under this 2K is DAMN close if not perfect, I promise.
This SPI 2K reg build is great BTW. UPol, Iwata and SPI are 3 brand names that I am always VERY happy with.