Single stage nib fix

C

Chris Martin

Promoted Users
Hello SPI Forum friends,

You may have seen my other post regarding my nib issue on my single stage project in my home made spray booth. It has been very frustrating since I am reaching almost perfection in spraying the SS, thanks to Barry's help, but I still have nibs all over the paint.

Oh well. Since life must go on, and I have to finish this one day, I have resigned myself to the fact that I will have nibs and will have to remove them. I know nothing about how to properly sand and buff SS (except for trying long time ago with poor results. I have read some of the posting in this forum but there is so much info it is a bit overwhelming. My concern is that right now the paint is almost glass like and I am afraid that if I don't do this right the sanding marks will be noticeable.

I have read that either 1500 or 2000 will remove the nibs but what is a good sandpaper for this (or will any decent brand do)? What polish compound should I use.

Help summarizing the process would be greatly appreciated. thanks in advance.

Chris
 
Last edited:
BTW, just wanted to clarify that I am not seeking absolute perfection. The SS has a faint orange peel but I will not attempt to remove it. If there is a technique for just spot removing nibs, or reducing their "obviousness", that will be good enough for me.

I know this may sound odd, but in my particular application (airplane), I have been told repeated times that a little orange peel is not a bad thing (cut's down blinding sun reflections, although my paint is very very shiny right now :) ). That sure makes life easier.

Chris
 
I've found that a nib file works much better than sand paper for what you want. I did some farm tractor tins for a friend in SS, and he didn't want them cut and buffed, so I had to paint them upside down in my dirty shop, and used a nib file. The small nib files are easy to tip and gouge, so the way you hold it makes a difference. If your two fingers are on the front part it, then it is more likely to tip and gouge, so hold it so the pressure is more on the back part of the file. I was able to get all the nibs out and its just about undetectable--without any buffing. I bought a Festool brand later and it seems like it might be better, but I haven't tried it yet.

100_3229.jpg
100_3212.jpg
100_3248 (2).jpg
 
Wow Chevman. Nice SS finish. I wish I could get there. I am happy with the outcome of my first small part yesterday. But certainly not as smooth as yours. Mine is still a little wavy but I think I have reached the limit of what I can do. Maybe the gun is starting to show it's limits (Iwata Kiwami4).

But I can live with it unless you can share how you got it to be soooo smooth.

I will go by the paint store at lunch and see if they have one of those files.

Here are some pictures of my new baby :) Doesn't look too bad in the sun a couple feet away. The second picture really highlights the waviness (white line). Oh well, I'll be happy if I can get my whole airplane like this. :)

Chris
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2311.JPG
    IMG_2311.JPG
    116.4 KB · Views: 81
  • IMG_2310.JPG
    IMG_2310.JPG
    103.1 KB · Views: 90
I'll let the real painters give advice, all I can say is that inexperience needs good equipment to get good results.
 
Yup, I have been told that many times. What holds me back is that I wonder if going through the trouble and expense of getting an Iwata LPH400 (or Sata) will really result in much better finish (or ease of use) as compared to my new Kiwami4. I would hate to go through the trouble of getting one and find out the improvement is marginal. If I could just find someone local with one to give it a try
Chris
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top