Slow reducer or slow activator...or both?

mitch_04

Learnin'
When I hear people talk about getting the best finish, it's often said to use the slowest activator possible. Does that go for the reducer too? Or can someone straighten me out here?
 

crashtech

Combo Man
Yes, it's the reducer, too. Most SPI clears have the reduction built into the activator, the speed of the solvents in the activator are a part of what make the activator a certain speed. If you are using Euro, the flash time is controlled by the reducer, and the through cure time is controlled by the activator.
 
I use slow activator and slow reducer. The combination works well for me. I find the very slow reducer is only necessary when temps are near 100 degrees. Which happens here in Arizona.
 

Chris_Hamilton

Trying to be the best me, I can be
Higher the humidity in combination with temperature also increases the need for a slower reducer. Example 85 degrees, low humidity, 885 would work well. 85 degrees, high humidity, 895 would be a good choice. Around here (southern VA) anytime it's over 85 I usually will use 895 and the slowest activator available.
 

JC Daniel

Active Member
I have never used reducer in universal clear, That would take the solids content lower. If you want to spray reduced clear just stick with Euro it is what I use 95% of the time.
 

Bossed

Member
Higher the humidity in combination with temperature also increases the need for a slower reducer. Example 85 degrees, low humidity, 885 would work well. 85 degrees, high humidity, 895 would be a good choice. Around here (southern VA) anytime it's over 85 I usually will use 895 and the slowest activator available.
Chris, I don't have any 895, but I do have SPI retarder. Will the retarder suffice ?
 
Higher the humidity in combination with temperature also increases the need for a slower reducer. Example 85 degrees, low humidity, 885 would work well. 85 degrees, high humidity, 895 would be a good choice. Around here (southern VA) anytime it's over 85 I usually will use 895 and the slowest activator available.
85 degrees sure sounds good right now. Daytime temps here are in the high 90s and low 100s ugh!
 

Bossed

Member
I have only used slow reducer and slow activator. I've only used Universal Clear so far. I've never reduced it, but I have used retarder in the last coat.
 

CK-2

Active Member
I have never used reducer in universal clear, That would take the solids content lower. If you want to spray reduced clear just stick with Euro it is what I use 95% of the time.
I have never reduced universal either. I have a trunk lid I need to clear now. It’s 93 degrees and I only have slow activator. My garage doesn’t have AC. Should I wait until early morning around daylight and go for it? That was my plan this morning until I saw it was still 97% humidity.
 

Chris_Hamilton

Trying to be the best me, I can be
I have used Euro Clear in temperatures as high as 106 degrees in the paint booth I was in. Universal in hot weather (90+) I would advise using 2-4 ounces of retarder per 32 ounces of RTS (ready to spray) clear. Do this in all your coats not just the last. Practice a bit so you know what the clear will do with more retarder. 2 ounces or so per 32 in hot weather will simply allow the clear to perform as intended. 4 ounces in hot weather will make it flow out a little more than normal. But the hotter it is less of the "flow" effect you will see with retarder.
Couple of things I've noticed recently after shooting 6 gallons (RTS) of the Universal Clear in this hot weather. For Sata users, a Sata 1.3 RP will work but a Sata 1.4 RP shoots Universal better. Shooting your first coat wet enough is critical to getting it to look good. Even more so than with other lower solid clears. Universal doesn't flow a lot so getting each coat wet enough is critical to getting a relatively texture free surface. This clear shoots a lot different than mediums solids clears. If I was doing what I just di again now I would use more retarder to help it flow. But in all honesty doesn't really matter too much if you are going to cut and buff.
 

CK-2

Active Member
I don’t have any retarder. I’m using universal so I think I’ll go with the slow activator and start at daylight. It’s getting cut and buffed anyway. Just didn’t want solvent pop or any issues.
 
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CK-2

Active Member
What sucks is right now I have the choice to paint in the heat of the day when the humidity is actually lower but the temp is in the 90’s. Or in the morning when it’s mid 70’s with 97% humidity.
 

Chris_Hamilton

Trying to be the best me, I can be
Morning would be better. Get some retarder and very slow activator for the Universal. It will help and perform better than slow.
 

CK-2

Active Member
I’ve got the deck lid painted. Was hoping to clear in the morning. Will be 73 degrees but high humidity. It will be cut and buffed. Would you clear it in the morning or wait until Monday which is the earliest I could get some retarder and very slow activator?
 

texasking

Active Member
I’ve got the deck lid painted. Was hoping to clear in the morning. Will be 73 degrees but high humidity. It will be cut and buffed. Would you clear it in the morning or wait until Monday which is the earliest I could get some retarder and very slow activator?
Doing smaller areas, (like a trunk lid), you can get away with a little faster reducer and hardener than ideal, especially if you are going to buff.
 
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