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SPI Epoxy Tech Sheet updated 06/2013

AndyK

****
Staff member
#1
EPOXY PRIMER

06/2013​
Gun Tip: 1.4 or 1.5
As a reduced sealer use a 1.3 or 1.4

Product Numbers:

6600- White
6610- Gray
6620- Black
6630- Red Oxide
6700- Activator

V.O.C.
2:1 VOC Ready to Spray

Mix:
1:1 or 1 part SPI Epoxy to 1 part SPI Epoxy Activator 30 minutes of induction is recommended When you first open part A of the epoxy, it is VERY important to make sure that all settling on the bottom of the can is mixed up very well with your paint stick. If not mixed properly, you can destroy the epoxy and as a side note, paint shakers DO NOT perform well with settled epoxy so always use a paint stick. We strongly recommend you activate the epoxy by first stirring very well and then allowing it to set/ induce for 30 minutes. Stir once again before spraying and the longer you wait between spraying your coats of epoxy the better.

Pot Life: 72-120 hours depending on humidity and temperature (store in a sealed container).

Uses for SPI Epoxy: SPI Epoxy is one of the finest available and it’s great for use on any type of metal or aluminum if properly sanded and cleaned. This epoxy eliminates the need for an acid-etch primer. Use this epoxy on bare fiberglass or SMC before applying body fillers or 2K primers for best long-term results.


Prepping the Surface:
Metal or aluminum must be clean of all rust, oils, and any films. Never clean metal with lacquer thinner, acetone, or reducers of any kind. When prepping aluminum and metals for epoxy always sand aluminum or metals with 80 grit DA paper. Clean bare metals or aluminum with SPI 700 Waterborne WGR, clean with 710 WGR then let it sit 30-60 minutes before applying SPI Epoxy!

If you have any questions on how to prep any type of substrate please call our tech line before beginning.

Body Fillers:

On any restoration it’s always best to apply the body filler over the epoxy rather than applying filler over bare metal for best adhesion and corrosion protection. After applying two coats of epoxy, wait overnight before applying the body filler. The epoxy does not need to be sanded before applying the body filler (for up to 7 days).

If time allows, it’s always best to apply filler over the epoxy after it has set for 24-48 hours.

If you choose to do the filler work over bare metal, the epoxy can be sprayed over the sanded body filler.

Spraying:


Spray two wet coats for normal applications. For special projects such as restorations spray one coat and let it flash 30 minutes or longer at 70° degrees or higher. Then spray a second coat for maximum corrosion protection. For frames we recommend three coats for maximum protection and to make sure you don’t have any thin spots as frames tend to be very hard to spray. You do not need to top coat our epoxy on frames, wheel wells, firewalls or suspension components.

For older corvettes such as early 70’s and older, 3 wet coats of epoxy will perform best. Any cleaning of the raw glass should be allowed to sit 24 hours or longer before applying the epoxy. Apply one wet coat of epoxy, let it sit 1-4 hours then spray a second coat. If a third coat is desired again wait 1-4 hours before applying the next coat. This epoxy does not need to be sanded if it’s primed over within 7 days. Always prime over the epoxy within 7 days. After 7 days the epoxy should be sanded with 180 and re-coated with epoxy for best adhesion.

Polyester primers:


When using a polyester type primer always let the epoxy sit for at least 24 hours, while 48 hours would even be a better bet.

Wet and Dry Sanding:


If you need to sand a large area of epoxy, the epoxy will dry sand best after 12-16 hours. Wet sanding with moderate pressure can be done after about 4 hours, depending on the amount of epoxy applied, air temperature and substrate temperatures.

To use as a Paint Sealer:

To use the epoxy as a paint sealer, reduce it 5-50% with the proper temperature range urethane reducer (this is very important) and spray with your base/clear gun. Spray one wet coat ONLY, let it sit 2 hours then apply paint. For sealing of a potential problem paint job, apply two coats of epoxy with proper flash times between coats and let it sit over night before painting.

Remember, reducing epoxy speeds up the cure time, so when mixed as a sealer the best application of base is within 2-18 hours (no sanding is needed within this time frame).

Cold Weather:


In cold shop conditions this primer can and will go dormant. Keep heat on the car for 24 hours after spraying with an absolute minimum metal temperature of 65° F. Also, when it’s cold it will help to mix primer and let it induce 60 minutes before spraying. Application of any epoxy in cold weather can destroy a paint job.

Bottom line is if the car metal cannot be kept at 65° or higher as well as the shop temp for the next 24 hours, DO NOT spray our epoxy, as you may end up redoing all your hard work.

Also, the temperature of the epoxy in the can is just as important so store the epoxy in a warm place at least 24 hours before spraying.

For $20 you can buy a laser temperature gun to take readings of the can and the car panels and this will save you from guessing.

Once again, if you have any questions regarding the application of SPI Epoxy in cold weather please call us first. Metal temperature when you spray epoxy primer is critical and must be at least 65° as well as the contents of the epoxy primer and activator cans!

Precautions:

NEVER use SPI Epoxy over a Soda Blasted vehicle unless you call us first for proper neutralizing instructions.


NEVER use SPI Epoxy over Acid Etch/Wash Primers or Rust Converters. It will not work and we strongly suggest if you want to use a rust converter that you use the rust converters paint system instead of SPI.


Acid treatments should not be used unless you know the proper way to neutralize them, again call us first to be safe. Acid films can cause an adhesion loss.


We only recommend using Ospho’s acid treatment if you even need one.


If not handled properly the aforementioned issues can destroy a paint job and will result in an expensive mistake.


For bare metal or aluminum do NOT use any other cleaner except 700-1 for cleaning step number one and then 710-1 for cleaning step number two.
 
#2
For bare metal or aluminum do NOT use any other cleaner except 700-1 for cleaning step number one and then 710-1 for cleaning step number two.
I'm curious why you recommend the water base first and the solvent second?
 

Barry

Paint Fanatic
Staff member
#4
metalman;28918 said:
I'm curious why you recommend the water base first and the solvent second?
Well, I kept hearing from shops they did the two step process because they felt by using two different kinds they had the best of both worlds as far as cleaning the metal.
Six months ago, I went into a high end production shop as I had not been in there for a couple of years and was in area, I was shocked to see them doing both steps and the painter advised me that they love the waterborne but did not want to stand there with a blower or wait the 30 minutes to epoxy and they had proven the solvent sped up the process by getting rid of the water in the pours of the metal.

So as i talked to shops that were doing the two step, I asked and heard the same thing a number of times.
If I had give the number one minor issue with the epoxy I get, is fish-eyes on first coat because of the water still in the pours.
This again is why I love the tech line, I learn something everyday.
 
#5
So if you are willing to wait 30-60 minutes after using the waterborne wax and grease remover, can you get by without using the solvent based wax and grease remover? Just looking at the original tech sheet to only listed the waterborne wax and grease remover. Thanks
 
#7
AndyK;28900 said:
To use as a Paint Sealer:

To use the epoxy as a paint sealer, reduce it 5-50% with the proper temperature range urethane reducer (this is very important) and spray with your base/clear gun. Spray one wet coat ONLY, let it sit 2 hours then apply paint. For sealing of a potential problem paint job, apply two coats of epoxy with proper flash times between coats and let it sit over night before painting.

Remember, reducing epoxy speeds up the cure time, so when mixed as a sealer the best application of base is within 2-18 hours (no sanding is needed within this time frame).



These questions are basically the same in a way but instead of making one big confusing question just made it simple. I talked to barry and he helped me with this, but this was few weeks ago and now that I'm getting ready to paint again I forgot what he said. Wont forget now though since I have this bookmarked ;)

I'm just a little confused on this
-So whether it is mixed 5-50% 2 hrs would be fine for 1 coat to flash off for base?
-If you do 2 coats wait overnight(8-12hrs), does it matter if it is reduced 5-50%?
-2-18 hrs. means if its 50% 2 hrs is best and 5% means 18hrs is best?​
 
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