It is my understanding that the wrinkle is from the reducer attacking the base. It seems to me that a while back someone had posted that you should just dust on the new base so it doesn't attack the old.
I also wonder how long the base has to sit before it becomes sensitive, or is it just after you apply a clear to it? How long after that before it becomes where it isn't sensitive anymore? Hint.... a few years ago I took a job on a Dodge pick-up. The truck had been painted and the owner was not happy. He said that it needed more clear, and it was obvious that it had been short changed on that part. Figuring on simply scuf and shoot some clear, it seemed like an easy job. The truck had been painted for 3 years, but sat in a garage that whole time. I took a grey pad to the truck and hit base with it. The owner agreed to repainting the whole thing, figuring a quick scuf and shoot of base. The 3 year old base blew up on me!
I have, in the past, shot unreduced epoxy over spots and not had an issue. If you are using a fairly transparent base, you really don't want to introduce epoxy back into the mix if possible.
On the truck, i ended up painting each panel completely one at a time. I sprayed the base with the fastest reducer that I could and shot them as close as I could to be dry spray. Once I got it where I felt safe, I shot one normal coat, and then cleared. This was with a very long flash time between coats. One door, for instance, took me 3 days to complete. Then onto the next panel.
I am not the only one that has run into this type of problem, and I figure most everyone that has done much painting has hit it too. Just trying to get other ideas on how to correct this. I can get by the problem I currently have, but then someone else hits the same problem and they are in the same boat. Let's put our heads together and figure out the solution.
Aaron