Sprayed some epoxy today.

5

540goat

I sprayed it on my cowl area and door jambs. I wanted to spray a small area to see how it goes on. It seemed a lot thinner than I thought it would be. I put a wet coat on and got some runs in it, I will sand them out tomorrow. I also got some fisheyes in one or two spots. I am not putting this over bare metal. All my body work is done and it is going over Evercoat Durabuild. I have been using for years with no problems.

The gun I am using is a Starting line gun that I use for all my primers and when it sprayed the epoxy it would sputter. I cleaned it and it did the same thing. I have to check the tip size, I am not sure what size it is.
 
Be sure to clean the surface with Wax and Grease Remover.
Also epoxy needs some scratches to bond properly so the the surface must be sanded prior to application.
Should have a least a 1.4 tip and be sure to do a spray out before shooting your panels. What PSI were you spraying at?
 
I ahd a 1.8 tip on there. That might be why it didn't spray good and I got some runs. I thing it was about 20 PSI.

I sanded with 400 before I sprayed it.
 
I really liked the way it sprays with a 1.8 Finex 300
 
I just sprayed some the other day with a 1.4 tip, worked real well. Did a spray out first on some masking paper and had to adjust the gun a couple times, it was spraying alot of material at first causing runs. This is why spray outs are done.
 
As a little point of warning, make sure that the epoxy is mixed well in the can. If there is any sediment in the can the stuff will spray real thin. Don't ask how I know that!

Aaron
 
i put a mixing attatchment on my drill and mix the can for at least 2 minutes then pour what i need, add activator and mix that for at least 3 minutes with a wooden mixing paddle by hand and let it sit for 15-20 minutes while i do final wipedown and then mix it again and finally strain it into the gun cup. exhausting but never fails :)
 
Steves69LS3;10822 said:
i put a mixing attatchment on my drill and mix the can for at least 2 minutes then pour what i need, add activator and mix that for at least 3 minutes with a wooden mixing paddle by hand and let it sit for 15-20 minutes while i do final wipedown and then mix it again and finally strain it into the gun cup. exhausting but never fails :)
Click to expand...

I have always been afraid to do that, stirring the paint releases solvents into the air, then have the sparks coming off the commutator in the drill ignite them.

I used to use a hand cranked mixer I stole from my moms utensil drawer. When I moved from home to out on my own I have no idea what happened to it. Now I just stir and stir and stir by hand with those little sticks, lol.
 
i keep the drill at a low speed producing little to no spark
 
Evercoat Dura Build is a lacquer primer.

DURA BUILD should be used over a self-etch or
epoxy primer for best adhesion and optimum corrosion resistance.
Click to expand...

It could be that you would want to reverse your procedure in the future, applying the epoxy before any other primer-surfacer. I will leave it to others to critique the use of 1K lacquer primer.
 
crashtech;10841 said:
Evercoat Dura Build is a lacquer primer.



It could be that you would want to reverse your procedure in the future, applying the epoxy before any other primer-surfacer. I will leave it to others to critique the use of 1K lacquer primer.
Click to expand...


I have never had any problem with the Durabuild or any other lacquer primer. I don't see any reason to stop now. I never put epoxy under any body work. I do my plastic work, use the high build then seal it up with either a sealer or the epoxy. Never had any problems doing it that way. There is no critique here every one does it they way they feel is the best.
 
Except that the methods a lot of guys "feel are best" are actually antiquated and substandard. If you don't want me to mention when I see possible problems in your procedures, I will refrain from doing so, you have but to ask.
 
I have a car sitting in my garage that I painted that way 10 years ago and it looks as good as it did when I first did it. No cracking, no peeling no nothing.
 
OK, glad to hear it, and it's fine for you.

Just expect to be strongly challenged on this forum if you advocate this particular system of "epoxy over lacquer primer" to beginners on this site. It is a situation we specifically instruct newbies to avoid.
 
Good let them avoid it. It has always worked for me. Like putting plastic right over metal with out epoxy under it.

And I am not recommending any one does it but it has worked for me for a long time.
 
We did the best we could with what we had back in the lacquer days and I did shoot epoxy over 131S DuPont Lacquer primer-that was my favorite lacquer primer after they quit making the one that was made with ground sea shells. I've seen enough shrinkage, cracking, and other lacquer related failures to suggest they not be used. The ease of use was nice though, and cheeeeeaaapppp! Nobody in this area uses lacquer primer except some ratrod builders and people doing used car lot type work.
 
Bob I have never had any problems with any Lacquer products in all the time I have painted cars (37 years). Now of course I use base coat clear coat and epoxy sealer, but I still use some lacquer primer and most of it ends up on the floor.
 
It has started. One person knows that the rest are wrong. Sounds to me a lot like the Ospho bullshit. Dump this thread.
We sure as hell don't need an expert to be telling the manufacturer he is wrong.
This one is in my dump.
 
I never said that my way was the best. It works for me. So I do it that way.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top