straight epoxy start to finish versus 2k sandwich

C

coupe

Been using Barrys products for quite some time. and always wondered what is their to gain by using epoxy straight through. Maybe this has been brought up before but I suck at searching forums and was unable to find a thread. I seal a panel in epoxy, do body work seal again in epoxy shoot 2k block maybe 2k again if needs another blocking etc, I wet or dry sand 2k with final grit and seal with epoxy again before base. I like how 2k sands compared to epoxy and I like that you can get on it sooner, does epoxy help reduce sand scratch swelling? are you gaining adhesion? what advantages?, if any is their to the epoxy straight through method. the one thing I can say against epoxy is that it is surface temp temperamental as hell. Anything below MAINTAINED 65 degrees just go in the house it isn't worth the head aches. otherwise Its great for sealing. any opinions or insight, or is it strictly a matter of preference?
 
Hopefully shine and crash will chime in. I know shine and I think crash use that method. I had thought of it but epoxy just doesn't have the build of regular 2k.
 
2k may shrink a little,, it's part of the curing process.
With that said, when I get to the body work stage I will apply 2 coats of epoxy and instead of just using it as a sealer coat i will sand it down for a way to sneak in a extra blocking session, then go to 2k primer.. And I feel that with the 2k over the epoxy it doesn't have as much to shrink into, and i have had really good luck doing it this way.

Now with doing it this way I learned that you can sand a lot out with 2 good coats of epoxy, so at this point you could go either way but the 2k is just faster and you can probably get more build with the 2k if needed..

As far as the high build 2k.. I just don't see any use for it, the 2k fills plenty well enough.

I think I may have gotten off track a little. lol.

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2k may shrink a little,, it's part of the curing process.
With that said, when I get to the body work stage I will apply 2 coats of epoxy and instead of just using it as a sealer coat i will sand it down for a way to sneak in a extra blocking session, then go to 2k primer.. And I feel that with the 2k over the epoxy it doesn't have as much to shrink into, and i have had really good luck doing it this way.

Now with doing it this way I learned that you can sand a lot out with 2 good coats of epoxy, so at this point you could go either way but the 2k is just faster and you can probably get more build with the 2k if needed..

As far as the high build 2k.. I just don't see any use for it, the 2k fills plenty well enough.

I think I may have gotten off track a little. lol.
 
I actually do it that same way chad, only I sneak in that blocking session to make sure as I have been coming and going(I only get a couple hours at a time) I didn't forget or completely miss anything before I start my 2k
 
Works great that way doesn't it??

Sometimes i will even put one more light coat on if I sanded through in a lot of spots, Sometimes I get carried away to the point that only about half of the epoxy is left. I figure get as much out of the product as you can, while also bringing the mill's back down some. Back and forth, Back and forth.

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Works great that way doesn't it??

Sometimes i will even put one more light coat on if I sanded through in a lot of spots, Sometimes I get carried away to the point that only about half of the epoxy is left. I figure get as much out of the product as you can, while also bringing the mill's back down some. Back and forth, Back and forth.

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Also when I do something like this, once it gets to 2k primer it usually sits for months before it actually gets paint, so I don't see the shrinkage you would get with a production job either.

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Also when I do something like this, once it gets to 2k primer it usually sits for months before it actually gets paint, so I don't see the shrinkage you would get with a production job either.
 
Yes sir, most of what I spray typically ends back up on the floor.... And yes I am about the same way on time. I typically shoot a first round on epoxy to seal my bare panels, filler, more epoxy, 2k till super straight then they sit to the side till everything is ready for sealer. Which may be next week or next month, or.....
 
Or... Or... We just pulled one in that has been in epoxy for a year and a half.. I understand all to well..

I like you're process though.. You shouldn't have any issues.

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Or... Or... We just pulled one in that has been in epoxy for a year and a half.. I understand all to well..

I like you're process though.. You shouldn't have any issues.
 
I've been trying to get a rhythm that works for me.

2 coats epoxy
Body work
Epoxy over filler
2k
Then more epoxy slighty reduce (last block)
Seal
Base


No matter how much I block the 2k and guide coat. The last coat of epoxy has helped me locate a few low spots that always seem to elude me.

But it dose make me wonder about adhesion to let the epoxy set for a few weeks before getting around to sealing over my final scratch, before base.
 
Epoxy is a better product, more durable, better solvent barrier... I've done a lot of work without using any urethane primers with very good results but it takes more time. Do not worry about adhesion if you're applying epoxy sealer before paint-it doesn't get any better than that.
 
underdog;39677 said:
I've been trying to get a rhythm that works for me.

2 coats epoxy
Body work
Epoxy over filler
2k
Then more epoxy slighty reduce (last block)
Seal
Base
Click to expand...

Yes, that's the quick and dirty of how I go as well, with a lot of sanding thrown in there.

Have you tried dykem as a giudecoat, jimc turned me onto it and BAM stuff really pops out with it.

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underdog;39677 said:
I've been trying to get a rhythm that works for me.

2 coats epoxy
Body work
Epoxy over filler
2k
Then more epoxy slighty reduce (last block)
Seal
Base
Click to expand...

Yes, that's the quick and dirty of how I go as well, with a lot of sanding thrown in there.

Have you tried dykem as a giudecoat, jimc turned me onto it and BAM stuff really pops out with it.
 
Dykem, that's a incredible idea never crossed my mind, I've been using over priced 3m.
 
I'm a tool and dye maker, I was like derp as soon as Jim said it.... A $15 quart of it will get you thru about 3 cars, and I guide every 2k step. I just eyeball it and have a cheap purple gun that I just leave full of it in the rack. About 3 parts reducer to 1 part dykem.
 
Im with Chad and Bob.. Ive done ALOT of work with epoxy only.. These days I focus more on bikes that anything else.. Fiberglass, all kinds of different plastics etc, epoxy is just better in those situations.. I did a fiberglass hood for a guy couple of weeks ago.. I blocked the gel coat until I started hitting resin.. Stopped and put on 3 nice coats of epoxy 1:1.. Waited a few days, maybe a week i cant remember and bocked it all again with 150.. Broke through everywhere hitting gel coat and resin.. Applied 3 more coats and blocked again with 150.. Then 3 coats and blocked with 320 prior to epoxy seal and paint.

I could have used 2k ( urethane ) and sped up the process and would have been perfectly fine, but like the other guys have stated, I find it just produces a superior finish in the end IMO.. If I did a bunch of collision work I could not do this as often probably.. Barry knows how much I love the epoxy..

The really funy part is this.. What you and I see, the customer does not.. I have ask guys to drop their bikes back off because I could see shrinkage from all the products curing.. To them the bike looked beautiful.. To one of us we say damn she shrank a little.. A quick buzz with some 1500 and re buff and your back where you like it and it stays after a summer of sunbathing :) Think I got off track too Chad LOL
 
if my 3m pak ever runs out i will refill with pounce powder . i've had it forever and it still seems full.
 
I just read alot of threads here claiming problems are trapped solvents and other threads saying Epoxy does not fully cure for months. Here is me overthinking things again, but seems like a worry point unless the answer is the chemical reaction of epoxy does not release solvents.

Mind you, I use epoxy all the time on military orders, no choice, I also use a powdercoat epoxy on two step powder jobs for increased corrosion protection, but neither time is that my choice.
 
I see mentioned a sealer before the base coat. Is this epoxy thinned or something else?
John

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I see mentioned a sealer before the base coat. Is this epoxy thinned or something else?
John
 
Thinned for sealer, I reduce 10% some guys go as far as 50% but I always have problems with runs that thin.
 
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