Suggestions for repairing rocker panel on 2005 Corvette?

S

schpenxel

Hello,

First time poster, looking for some direction on some body work ("short" version of this post is below). I recently purchased a 2005 Corvette with some damage to the front of the rocker panel where it meets the front fender. Unfortunately, a tab on the rocker panel that holds the fender in a specific position was broken too. With that tab gone, the fender moved enough to interfere with the door when opening/closing which ultimately caused even more damage when the door/fender had a little "meeting". So, I've got damage on the door, fender and rocker panel

I had thought about just replacing the whole rocker panel, but supposedly these things are next to impossible to get off due to some sort of special adhesive that GM uses that is $140+ for a small tube of it. The rocker panel is bonded directly to the frame, and the result is it's near impossible to get one off in one piece, which also makes it nearly impossible to find a used one that isn't destroyed. The rocker panel is my biggest concern of the three. Worst case, I can buy a used fender for a few hundred bucks and a door panel for $400 or so. Don't want to, but could at least change them myself.

I am hoping you guys can point me in the right direction for the best way to repair this. I found an undamaged front section of the rocker panel. Is it realistic to cut the damaged section out of both the old and "new" one, then bond the new one in place of the old? Not sure how much access I will actually have to the back of the part so I would probably have to do most of the work from the front which doesn't exactly seem ideal.

I'm going to go by a body shop to see what they would charge to fix it first, but I was thinking if I could do a good chunk of getting it in good enough shape to paint, at least it would save me some money. Plus I need a project, so I figure why not.

All three parts are SMC

Short version:
1. Rocker Panel - Cracked / front fender tab missing. Thinking may be best to replace the bad section with the same section from an undamaged part. Is this realistic? Quite possible I would not have very good access to the back of the part, meaning all work would have to be done from the front. Seems that re-creating the correct features found on the original would be quite difficult otherwise, thus the idea to cut out the bad and replace with good
2. Front Fender - Cracked but I think all of the pieces are more or less there. should be fixable with pretty normal methods. Looking at using west system epoxy resin. I think I can handle this one. At worst, a replacement fender isn't that expensive
3. Door - Has chip missing right along the edge which looks like a pain to fix properly. I assume this could be fixed with west system epoxy as well but it being such a thin strip that needs replacing scares me a little. Replacement door shell is up to $600+ so would prefer to fix it.

Will have a body shop do the painting regardless

Here are some pictures:


IMG_7821.jpg

IMG_7827.jpg

edit: also, here is a nearly complete one so you can see the features of the damaged area

742831393_o.jpg
$_57.jpg
 
you should check with GM to see if there's any warnings about sectioning this panel but yes you can section SMC and other composites with adhesives if you make sleeves. Missing tabs and pieces can also be built. There's info on Lord Fusor's website and many others that explains how to section materials like this.
 
Bob Hollinshead;35054 said:
you should check with GM to see if there's any warnings about sectioning this panel but yes you can section SMC and other composites with adhesives if you make sleeves. Missing tabs and pieces can also be built. There's info on Lord Fusor's website and many others that explains how to section materials like this.

Will do. Found a few things about sectioning SMC that I'll have to give a good read. Thanks for the reply.

I went ahead and ordered west system epoxy kit to get started. Figure I'll play with the fender first--if I mess it up, it's the cheapest to just all out replace.

Well, actually, I'll probably start by playing on something that isn't a Corvette just to get my hands wet. Then I'll go from there depending on how that goes
 
I'd section it in. It's a complex area that needs to be strong, two things that are difficult to achieve simultaneously in a repair environment.
 
crashtech;35088 said:
I'd section it in. It's a complex area that needs to be strong, two things that are difficult to achieve simultaneously in a repair environment.

Thanks for the reply--that is what I'm planning on. I'm going to get a quote for a local body shop to do the rocker panel section at least, then go from there. I feel I could fix the fender no problem, door most likely, but rocker I'm not sure about yet.

We'll see. I've rebuilt plenty of engines, just not much body work. I think I can do it, just a matter of how long it would take me vs. what someone else would charge
 
If you have the skill to repair the fender, you can also section the rocker. What I would recommend is that you buy a temporary subscription to the technical data for your 'Vette:

https://www.acdelcotds.com/acdelco/action/home

I think you can get a 3-day subscription for $20, during which time you will have access to all of GM's information on all their vehicles. This will most likely include detailed body repair procedural information on the 'Vette. The challenge can be drilling down to find it. When I subscribe to these OEM sites, I make sure to have plenty of printer paper handy!
 
crashtech;35110 said:
If you have the skill to repair the fender, you can also section the rocker. What I would recommend is that you buy a temporary subscription to the technical data for your 'Vette:

https://www.acdelcotds.com/acdelco/action/home

I think you can get a 3-day subscription for $20, during which time you will have access to all of GM's information on all their vehicles. This will most likely include detailed body repair procedural information on the 'Vette. The challenge can be drilling down to find it. When I subscribe to these OEM sites, I make sure to have plenty of printer paper handy!

Coool--did not know that existed. I assume it will give all of the "GM" recommended ways of doing body repairs on SMC?

I'll probably leave the car as-is for a few weeks. I actually just bought it so don't really want to have it out of commission just yet. In the mean time I have some west system epoxy & some fillers on the way that I am going to do a little messing with. It's been a while since I've played with epoxy/fiberglass
 
Honestly I am not sure what it will have, but on a car like that I feel it is worth the investment in any case, if you plan on doing any significant work to a newer vehicle that is as packed with tech as the Vette. Just make time to download and save/print everything you can find on the car!
 
crashtech;35123 said:
Honestly I am not sure what it will have, but on a car like that I feel it is worth the investment in any case, if you plan on doing any significant work to a newer vehicle that is as packed with tech as the Vette. Just make time to download and save/print everything you can find on the car!

Certainly understand that...

I just got done rebuilding the engine on a 2004 BMW 545i. Now THAT is a car with entirely too many electronics from some Germans with way too much time on their hands. Totally over engineered to say the least. I literally have binders worth of info I printed out from a site that has a copy of all of BMW's dealership documentation

But, it went back together finally and ran fine in the end (I sold it last week) so I guess it worked out
 
What would you guys recommend for getting the crack in the fender (SMC) repaired? I am getting mixed answers on whether I should use West System epoxy or not. Some say it will not expand/contract like SMC and not work, others say it's fine.

I've also been recommended evercoat "fibertech"

Any direction would be appreciated
 
schpenxel;35173 said:
What would you guys recommend for getting the crack in the fender (SMC) repaired? I am getting mixed answers on whether I should use West System epoxy or not. Some say it will not expand/contract like SMC and not work, others say it's fine.

I've also been recommended evercoat "fibertech"

Any direction would be appreciated

West system isn't designed for this repair and is inferior to any SMC designed product
 
So I'm up to about 5 options now, you guys are making this tougher not easier! Just kidding, thanks for the help.

I have a feeling any of them would work and I'm just making this too complicated

Options so far:
Lord Fusor 127EZ - 2K, needs dual "caulk" gun to apply
3M 08243 Repair Adhesive - 2K, needs dual "caulk" gun to apply
West System Epoxy (I still think this will work personally) - have this already & fillers
Evercoat Fiber Tech
Evercoat SMC Fiberglass Resin
 
The first two things on your list have different purposes than the last three. If you want to use West Systems, at least talk to a rep about it.
 
My personal problem with the West systems products is their marketing...They make good stuff, but tell their customers that EVERYTHING but their stuff is inferior, their stuff works for EVERYTHING and to use anything else is stupid and do it at your own risk (fear tactics)...they also don't explain how to finish over their stuff well, and if there is a problem, it must be something or someone else's problem. I see that since you have already purchased this, it is what you will use, so advice from this forum is wasted....
 
flynams;35181 said:
My personal problem with the West systems products is their marketing...They make good stuff, but tell their customers that EVERYTHING but their stuff is inferior, their stuff works for EVERYTHING and to use anything else is stupid and do it at your own risk (fear tactics)...they also don't explain how to finish over their stuff well, and if there is a problem, it must be something or someone else's problem. I see that since you have already purchased this, it is what you will use, so advice from this forum is wasted....

Not at all. If it won't work, or something else would work better (to an extent that truly matters for a 9 year old 100K+ mile car) I will absolutely buy something else and not think twice about it. In fact I would be glad to purchase the RIGHT product instead of using something that may or may not work, thus the reason I am asking for advice.

Of course I would prefer to use what I already have for obvious reasons, I have no issue buying something else if that is the direction I need to go. It's not worth the small savings in materials if have to do it again (and buy the other products then anyways..)

I did not know about their marketing--that certainly would put me off from buying their products if I had known about it prior to purchase
 
I am a rank amateur doing repairs on Corvettes but I have tried almost all the products suggested. Any time I have used an epoxy or polyester resin to attach a panel or part, I was able to pry it apart later and it separated at the junction of the two pieces. Last year I used Lord Fusor T21 (very similar to 127EZ but cures a little faster). I attached a fiberglass spoiler to the back of my '72 Corvette using the Lord Fusor adhesive and it really really bonds the two pieces together. It's also pretty easy to sand and feathers to invisibility. The epoxy resins are much harder to sand. I know, the adhesive, the gun and a couple of extra mixing nozzles adds up to more than a hundred bucks but it ended up being worth it. Here's my thread on a neophyte making modifications to a Corvette body: http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?2507-72-Corvette
 
Bob Heine;35184 said:
I am a rank amateur doing repairs on Corvettes but I have tried almost all the products suggested. Any time I have used an epoxy or polyester resin to attach a panel or part, I was able to pry it apart later and it separated at the junction of the two pieces. Last year I used Lord Fusor T21 (very similar to 127EZ but cures a little faster). I attached a fiberglass spoiler to the back of my '72 Corvette using the Lord Fusor adhesive and it really really bonds the two pieces together. It's also pretty easy to sand and feathers to invisibility. The epoxy resins are much harder to sand. I know, the adhesive, the gun and a couple of extra mixing nozzles adds up to more than a hundred bucks but it ended up being worth it. Here's my thread on a neophyte making modifications to a Corvette body: http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?2507-72-Corvette

Thanks, I'll take a look at the thread. Want to sell the gun by any chance?

edit: Just read through the thread.. looking good!

I am also assuming that the 3M / Lord Fusor "guns" are not compatible? That would make it too easy if they were
 
schpenxel;35185 said:
Thanks, I'll take a look at the thread. Want to sell the gun by any chance?

edit: Just read through the thread.. looking good!

I am also assuming that the 3M / Lord Fusor "guns" are not compatible? That would make it too easy if they were
If I didn't have half a cartridge left, I might be interested but I have a few more repairs to do.

I can't tell you from personal experience if they are compatible but they sure don't look like they are. I don't remember my exact thought process (about anything) but at the time I chose Lord Fusor because their gun looked about as sturdy as the 3M and cost less and the Lord cartridge was larger and cost about the same. The cartridge size seemed important because I would be laying down a 10-foot bead. If it took more than 200 ml of adhesive, the 3M cartridge would come up short. It turned out I used about half of the Lord Fusor 300 ml cartridge so the 3M would have just made it (remember that a significant amount of the two parts are left unused in the mixing nozzle. Bottom line for me is that 3M charges some pretty outrageous prices for their stuff so I look for equal quality alternatives.
 
There are specific materials for bonding parts together, and specific materials for laminating repair areas with saturated glass mat or cloth. Generally materials made for bonding are high viscosity and would not be able to wet glass mat, and laminating type resins conversely are very poor for bonding due to their low viscosity and limited adhesive strength. Proper material selection for the job is important.

I would disagree that an epoxy based material is not appropriate for bonding SMC, but it has to be a material that is blended to do the job, for instance, SEM has a line of epoxy based adhesives that are excellent, like their #39747.
 
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