SW 3rd dimension

N

nastynotch347

I will start this out by saying I have not used single stage since '99.

Mixed according to tech sheet, used 65-80 degree reducer(68 in shop) Applied with a 3000 RP 1.4 tip. Perfectly even spray pattern; 2 coats 25 min apart, no runs/peel but the metallic looks very blotchy and did not orient itself properly. Would of loved to shoot base/clear but this is a low budget OTR tractor for a buddy. Should I have used a faster reducer?

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Looks to my untrained eye like your gun is skipping. I see a definate skip pattern as well as a cresent shaped fan.
I think it is time for an overhaul of that gun .

sure looks to me like I can see patterns in the metallic.

 
It sprayed fine, the metallic did not orient itself properly.
 
both coats were shot too wet/thick and too close together. the second coat moved the first. i'm not sure what you mean by orient itself . you have to control metallic.
 
I sprayed with a wet edge? How long should I have waited between coats tech sheet says 15-20 min
 
Single stage metallics sometimes need a lot of finesse, back in the day I was taught on unruly metallics to do a last medium wet coat and follow it immediately with mist coat to even the metallic, if the reducer speed was right it would melt in and level out. I would NOT want to attempt it with a cheap brand like 3rd Dimension, metallic control on ALL Dimension products just sucks. I have had Dimension metallic basecoat move and flip just by putting clear coat on it, hadn't seen that in years.

I would not bet on being able to achieve a decent finish with that paint, unless you put it on again less wet and just clear it the next morning to gloss it up.
 
I'm going to try a couple medium coats and see what develops, I'd really hate to let the paint get the upper hand here!
 
Good luck. You may want to check your gun also, as SOF said it looks like it may be pulsing a bit. Sometimes tightening and lubing the packing nut can help, and making sure that any seal inside your air cap and/or nozzle is in good shape and properly tightened.
 
Well round two went better. 2 medium coats with 30 min flash time, fan set at 90%. The metallic is uniform, prob could have been sprayed a touch wetter but it looks good enough for the Volvo.
 
I learned how to spray with Centari Enamel, some of the golds, silvers, and copper colors were a true challenge. One slick thin tack coat and let it tack up good, one wet coat and hopefully it's mostly covered, allow it to tack up good, then a final wet coat and an immediate mist/drop coat to set the metalics. It was the only way to get a smooth/flat job with good metalic orientation. JGA502!!!
 
One slick thin tack coat and let it tack up good, one wet coat and hopefully it's mostly covered, allow it to tack up good, then a final wet coat and an immediate mist/drop coat to set the metalics.

This is how I shot the repair areas on the hood and side of the sleeper yesterday with good results. I'd imagine a 50% overlap the first time around would have worked too.
 
Shine, as the first attempt cured the metallics shifted. With less overlap less material is applied
 
when shot too wet the toner comes to the surface. this gives you the splotchy look. metal is not going to shift around during cure. it is the final dust coat that evens it up.
overlap is to keep the film even as the edges are always lighter. bottom line is you can not shoot metallics like clear or ss.
 
3rd Dimension calls for a drop coat to help even the metallics. Yes for single stage. Good post Bob.
 
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