Tank Dents
- Thread starter metalman
- Start date
metalman
Oldtimer
That guy should have spent his money toward a new pipe.
As far as motorcycle tanks are concerned their is absolutely no way I would put any more that 2 or 3 PSI in them. And that would be for a final check for leaks, which I routinely do after repairs, modifications or even if the tank is new. Small amount of time to save the heartache later after paint.
As far as motorcycle tanks are concerned their is absolutely no way I would put any more that 2 or 3 PSI in them. And that would be for a final check for leaks, which I routinely do after repairs, modifications or even if the tank is new. Small amount of time to save the heartache later after paint.
Dean Jenkins
Promoted Users
Is there any way the cost of a new tank is more than repairing this one?
Understood- Thought it may be worth a shot....No, dirt bike Guys will not keep buying new pipes.The chances of getting a new (dents) are great.Also, it takes much more of a dent (in size)in the pipe to effect performance. I bet there are other Folks out there using similar procedures; other videosThat guy should have spent his money toward a new pipe.
As far as motorcycle tanks are concerned their is absolutely no way I would put any more that 2 or 3 PSI in them. And that would be for a final check for leaks, which I routinely do after repairs, modifications or even if the tank is new. Small amount of time to save the heartache later after paint.
metalman
Oldtimer
I took your post as a suggestion to use air pressure to pop the dents out of a motorcycle tank. Bad idea that I'm sure others have tried.
The owner wants the original tank. It is from a 1972 model, he wrecked it in 1977 and is half crippled from that to this day. Who am I to argue?
Back in the day you could find an original and some of the repos were good (not all). I didn't bother to investigate, I will fix it.
Yotabldr
Promoted Users
If the owner is open to the idea, consider sectioning it out. I'd keep the cuts more on the flatter side face, then once it's open you can reach inside to straighten out the creases that cut across the upper and lower radii. Once the new section is ready to tack and weld in, plug all openings and do a full argon back purge. Not only for peace of mind, but it also helps tremendously in keeping the porosity gremlins away.
Recently did something similar on an RC51 tank:
Recently did something similar on an RC51 tank:
metalman
Oldtimer
Well I can see why you opted to make a new section. Someone murdered that panel with a screw/slide hammer previously. Nice results.
That won't be necessary on the tank I'm working on.
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
Not knocking you Yota but to cut that tank would be insanity. Those dents are perfectly workable especially with it being bolted to a fixture. I have every confidence that Metalman will have it looking good in short order.
MJM
Promoted Users
That's pretty impressive, two thumbs up!
Treeslayer
Mike
air........i have herd of guys popping out dents in aluminum semi tanks. i wouldnt do it. i once used air to blow apart a stubborn hydraulic cylinder. it was nearly five feet long with a 3" rod. its a good thing the shop door was open cuz the rod blew right out in the yard. it weighed a hundred pounds. if it had hit any one they would have broken legs. air pressure is tricky. ever seen the old split ring wheels? there have been a few killed airing those up with out making sure the ring was well seated. it is a handy tool, but caution and careful thought is required.
crashtech
Combo Man & Mod
Just a side note, if pressure is desired to make a repair, filling the vessel in question as full of water as can be managed will remove most of the hazard. This is because water is virtually incompressible, and therefore won't expand if containment is lost. No expansion = no explosion or other dramatic effects relating to sudden massive gas expansion.
Treeslayer
Mike
thats a handy bit of info crashtech.
Dean Jenkins
Promoted Users
I worked at a full service gas station my Junior and Senior year in high school. We sold new tires and did a lot of flat repair, including truck tires with split rims. I probably did 200-300 split rim jobs while I was there. We had a cage we put the split rims in - just in case. And had a few come apart in the cage. Wow! Talk about a violent event. Would've taken my head off.
Thank-you for posting this. You have likely saved many lives--if people take it to heart not to do this. I do a lot of pressure testing with water only--up to 1500psi and the only pneumatic testing I ever do is 5-8 psi or less and any flat surface is evaluated for exactly what you don't want it to do--have it pop out. I will even "stay" them or put several tons of steel plate in the way of the potential burst path when I cannot adequately confirm to myself the engineering pressure retaining safety factor or likelihood there-of. For me to do it without such--safety factor of 350% with known shapes or no go--I leave the property.
That muffler could be tissue paper thin from corrosion in some other part of it not dented. Heating the steel to weaken it past 1000F (about red heat) and then standing in front of it with 30+psi of air pressure (the outside skin of the section is in tension from the internal pressure) is just looking at and then asking for death. How it will let go and rupture is not a pinhole--but down the long way of the section. Identification of the deceased is usually by any tooth fragments for dental records or fingertips remaining for fingerprint records.
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Worn Out Welder
Promoted Users
Hydro test …yes
Pneumo……NO !
Unless you’re interested in
Death or collateral damage.
Pneumo……NO !
Unless you’re interested in
Death or collateral damage.