"The Filler Detective"

Raymond_B

Raymond_B

Hobbyist
Is this thing snake oil or does it really work?

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/hot...m=EMAIL&utm_campaign=162EM106_FILLERDETECTIVE

Reason I ask is that I got burned pretty bad on the last Mustang I bought. Looking back there were a few obvious signs I missed, but I think most of the stuff (massive amounts of Bondo hidden under a decent paint job) would require folks like you guys to detect. So unless ya'll would like to come with me on my next purchase :) I'd like to be able to identify past body work.
 
Its nothing more then a cheap mil gauge in a fancy cover and they are deciding what mils constitute body filler.

Nice thing about a real mil gauge like the ETG I have, is you can get a mil reading and know for sure the mils and make you own decision.
 
Thanks guys, even at 700.00 it would have saved me 10 times that much had I known the amount of work I need to put in my current Mustang.
 
Thanks Chevman, that's a good price.

What mils should someone be looking for? I know there's a lot of factors involved, but a basic BC/CC is usually what? or better yet, what would be a thickness that would make you guys leary?
 
Barry may shoot me down on some of this, but this is what I have noticed.
New cars have 4 to 6 mils, but that can't be duplicated by hand. So a strip and spray with bc/cc without any type of filler might be 7 to 10 or more, with a minimum of coverage. When blocking primer on an already straight car, you can easily have 10 mils in the straighter areas in primer alone. Just look at a new car closely and you'll see waves and forming depressions from the stamping press all over it.

The filler detective lights are for

•no filler
•1/16" + or 62.5 mils
•1/8" + or 125 mils
•3/16" + or 187.5 mils
•1/4" + or 250 mils +

Raymond_B;42238 said:
what would be a thickness that would make you guys leary?
Click to expand...
I'm mostly interested in cars of the 50s, so I know their rust prone areas, and I don't worry too much about filler in those areas because if there is any at all then its almost certain to need a patch. As I move away from there, but still within the surrounding area, I get more concerned. Because the bigger that patch needs to be, the more likely it is that there will be rust in areas that are not as rust prone. Heavy filler on areas as go up a vertical panel will most likely be dents or accident damage.
 
Chevman, I agree with mils of new cars, I measure all i can, LOL.

To find body filler is fairly easy with a mil gauge, I know where all the filler is on wife T-bird and if i measure the fender is will be 25-27 mils but the little spot of filler is 34-36 in the 8" dia approx.

By the way the pro motor one has been a good one, been out for a while and was a great buy years ago for around 350-400, don't remember exactly, just any you buy should have the separate wire to use, not on that you set unit on car, for ease of use.

Mil measurements of late.
F250 black 4.2-4.7
Infinity Black 4.4 ave.
Mercedes blue met.4.2-4.8
1500 chev red. 3.9 to 4.3

This all equals about one wet coat of universal.
 
Barry;42241 said:
This all equals about one wet coat of universal.
Click to expand...

One wet coat of Universal could be 4 mils? I didn't know that clear had that much build. How many mils would a wet coat of epoxy be on average?
 
strum456;42255 said:
One wet coat of Universal could be 4 mils? I didn't know that clear had that much build. How many mils would a wet coat of epoxy be on average?
Click to expand...

I had to send a cab out to a metal shop for some patch work after I stripped it. I put 2 wet coats of epoxy on it before it left for a month or so. I got it back and started blocking it out with 80 getting it ready for some more bodywork and poly primer... I was shocked how thick the epoxy was. Pretty impressed. I normally dont go after epoxy with 80 like that.
 
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