R
retrofinisher
While having a background with earlier old school automotive refinishing plus setting up three commercial HVLP systems with waterborne paints or epoxies; I also do some great work with aerosols from SEM and Duplicolor.
Had a Ah HA moment during a body panel prep and small spot repairs ATTEMPTING to use aerosol primer surfacer coatings over Ford factory two stage on my 2001 Explorer.
Those products work well in many small applications but not if I was expecting good results on a factory waterborne top coat. The can solvents gave me feather edge and chip edge peeling.
Definitely a place where getting back to “real pro” techniques over convenience made sense. Particularly since the top coat/clear coat is to be applied by a pro body shop.
PLAN 2 FOR COMING BACK HOME TO THE NEW WAYS (NOT THAT NEW):
Comments welcomed- really and thanks.
1. DA/block sanding and feathering off all the lacquer primers/surfacers with 280/320 to bare steel.
2. Re-cleaning the top coat with paint prep cleaner
3. Applying 2 coats of SPI 2K epoxy primer using 1.8 tip Binks to spot repairs
4. Blocking with 600 wet dry
5. Re-spraying entire liftgate exterior and edges using 2K
6. Block entire panel with 600
7. Allow Ford dealer shop to top coat/clear coat (I am not setup for that). They can apply sealer if desired.
Photo included before all the emblems etc were removed. Now it is basically a shell.
Color is Ford Oxford White/clear
Had a Ah HA moment during a body panel prep and small spot repairs ATTEMPTING to use aerosol primer surfacer coatings over Ford factory two stage on my 2001 Explorer.
Those products work well in many small applications but not if I was expecting good results on a factory waterborne top coat. The can solvents gave me feather edge and chip edge peeling.
Definitely a place where getting back to “real pro” techniques over convenience made sense. Particularly since the top coat/clear coat is to be applied by a pro body shop.
PLAN 2 FOR COMING BACK HOME TO THE NEW WAYS (NOT THAT NEW):
Comments welcomed- really and thanks.
1. DA/block sanding and feathering off all the lacquer primers/surfacers with 280/320 to bare steel.
2. Re-cleaning the top coat with paint prep cleaner
3. Applying 2 coats of SPI 2K epoxy primer using 1.8 tip Binks to spot repairs
4. Blocking with 600 wet dry
5. Re-spraying entire liftgate exterior and edges using 2K
6. Block entire panel with 600
7. Allow Ford dealer shop to top coat/clear coat (I am not setup for that). They can apply sealer if desired.
Photo included before all the emblems etc were removed. Now it is basically a shell.
Color is Ford Oxford White/clear