Time to go 100%

R

retrofinisher

While having a background with earlier old school automotive refinishing plus setting up three commercial HVLP systems with waterborne paints or epoxies; I also do some great work with aerosols from SEM and Duplicolor.

Had a Ah HA moment during a body panel prep and small spot repairs ATTEMPTING to use aerosol primer surfacer coatings over Ford factory two stage on my 2001 Explorer.

Those products work well in many small applications but not if I was expecting good results on a factory waterborne top coat. The can solvents gave me feather edge and chip edge peeling.

Definitely a place where getting back to “real pro” techniques over convenience made sense. Particularly since the top coat/clear coat is to be applied by a pro body shop.

PLAN 2 FOR COMING BACK HOME TO THE NEW WAYS (NOT THAT NEW):

Comments welcomed- really and thanks. 2012-09-15_18-53-59_382.jpg

1. DA/block sanding and feathering off all the lacquer primers/surfacers with 280/320 to bare steel.
2. Re-cleaning the top coat with paint prep cleaner
3. Applying 2 coats of SPI 2K epoxy primer using 1.8 tip Binks to spot repairs
4. Blocking with 600 wet dry
5. Re-spraying entire liftgate exterior and edges using 2K
6. Block entire panel with 600
7. Allow Ford dealer shop to top coat/clear coat (I am not setup for that). They can apply sealer if desired.

Photo included before all the emblems etc were removed. Now it is basically a shell.
Color is Ford Oxford White/clear
 
Clean,scuff/sand, clean,epoxy spot repairs or overall( for good adhesion), red scotchbrite,2k prime,guide coat,180 block repairs,re-guide coat block with 320 open coat,reduce epoxy.
Spray two coats,spray color,have beer ( results may vary if beer is involved earlier in the process ).
 
Wash the lacquer primer off with thinner or reducer, take it to a bodyshop where they will spot prime, blend some color, then clear it complete. Or we can walk you through the complete process if you want to do it yourself. You could save the shop some time if you scuff the whole panel exterior with a grey scotchbrite and clean it really good.
 
Glad to be here

Thanks Bob, all the items you mentioned are done all ready except I am DA-ing the primer to feather edge. The only intent I have is to prep the panel and allow the shop to top coat clear coat. The lower lip also has some spot repair from a ding. Not having a vented booth and such a large area part the quality of the finish is best done by the Ford shop. Billy Howell is one of best in GA dealer shop and they handle a lot of Oxford white + price was quoted very fair..


Just aside from polyester Featherfill, never worked with newer automotive 2K systems.

I have a series of late 60's Shelby GT 500 parts, 68-69 Mach 1 glass parts and vintage Honda road motorcycle parts to refurbish to concours level prep so might as well get my own refinishing in 100% working order. Past life chapter for me was 60's 70's AC Cobra, Shelby, TVR, Mustang, Sunbeam Tiger refinishing.

I'm taking lead from SPI which is about 2 hours north of my home.

It's all in the prep..thanks again. great to be on the site.
 
Get you're refinishing area setup, you can do as good or better than what that Ford dealership is putting out.
 
Bob, thanks for vote of confidence.

I considered construction of a break down booth from poly and pvc pipe.

Will soon be posting photos of a 2011 Mustang custom billet grille surround fabrication with 65/66 pony emblem..
plus rear differential and sway bar epoxy finishing for tricked out color cosmetics and rust control of axle.

Purchasing a Sharpe Finex HVLP fx1000 for smaller less than perfect detail Urethane or epoxy finishes /chassis work.

thanks again.:encouragement:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top