Tips and tricks for buffing with wool?

Lizer

Lizer

Mad Scientist
I've always only ever buffed with foam up until now, and have started using wool with Megs M100 which has been a game changer for me compared to Hexalogic Foam and CG V32 compound.

However I'm not sure if I'm doing it right or the best way with wool (if it's different than foam).

Curious on how everybody else is using wool buffs, from how they apply the compound (and how much) to how you buff without getting splatter everywhere. Also on how you are cleaning them.

I've also found on tricky spots it buffs out sanding scratches faster if I add a little drop of compound right on the panel over the scratch and buff it in.
 
Wool pad is a world different than the Hexlogic and V32. So much faster. I know Shine like that stuff but after trying it and buffing two cars with the stuff I don't think I'll use their compound again. Pads are pretty decent, but the compound is slow and everything has to be perfect. Wool you can get away with more.

To avoid splatter, I just apply 3 or 4 small blobs on the wool pad, then spread it around a little before running the buffer. Start the buffer slow initially then come up to speed. Sometimes I'll use a single mist shot of water from a sprayer to keep things wet. Three to at most four small blobs spread out on the pad is how much I use. Less is more especially when you get the pad working for a while. You have to be more aware as well with wool as you can do more damage. Especially catching an edge. Another reason why I like to wet the work area or pad with a squirt of water as I'm buffing.

As for cleaning, with a traditional old style wool pad, you can go for quite a while without cleaning. Sometimes a wet cloth or paint wipe and spinning the buffer will help clean it a bit. Traditional way with old style wool pads is to wait till the compound dries out on the pad and use a buffing spur to clean it. Flat screwdriver works too. With the 3D Xtra Cut pad I've been using, I simply rinse it out with cold water, shake it out then spin it on the buffer to get the excess water out. Then back to buffing. That pad you need to clean it quite often. Every large panel or so. It behaves more like a foam pad in that regard. But using it doesn't make your work area look like you murdered a sheep either. :)
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
Wool pad is a world different than the Hexlogic and V32. So much faster. I know Shine like that stuff but after trying it and buffing two cars with the stuff I don't think I'll use their compound again. Pads are pretty decent, but the compound is slow and everything has to be perfect. Wool you can get away with more.

To avoid splatter, I just apply 3 or 4 small blobs on the wool pad, then spread it around a little before running the buffer. Start the buffer slow initially then come up to speed. Sometimes I'll use a single mist shot of water from a sprayer to keep things wet. Three to at most four small blobs spread out on the pad is how much I use. Less is more especially when you get the pad working for a while. You have to be more aware as well with wool as you can do more damage. Especially catching an edge. Another reason why I like to wet the work area or pad with a squirt of water as I'm buffing.

As for cleaning, with a traditional old style wool pad, you can go for quite a while without cleaning. Sometimes a wet cloth or paint wipe and spinning the buffer will help clean it a bit. Traditional way with old style wool pads is to wait till the compound dries out on the pad and use a buffing spur to clean it. Flat screwdriver works too. With the 3D Xtra Cut pad I've been using, I simply rinse it out with cold water, shake it out then spin it on the buffer to get the excess water out. Then back to buffing. That pad you need to clean it quite often. Every large panel or so. It behaves more like a foam pad in that regard. But using it doesn't make your work area look like you murdered a sheep either. :)
Click to expand...
So, you're liking the yellow pad, huh?
 
Lizer said:
I've always only ever buffed with foam up until now, and have started using wool with Megs M100 which has been a game changer for me compared to Hexalogic Foam and CG V32 compound.

However I'm not sure if I'm doing it right or the best way with wool (if it's different than foam).

Curious on how everybody else is using wool buffs, from how they apply the compound (and how much) to how you buff without getting splatter everywhere. Also on how you are cleaning them.

I've also found on tricky spots it buffs out sanding scratches faster if I add a little drop of compound right on the panel over the scratch and buff it in.
Click to expand...

Maybe you're having success with the Meguiars M100 because it has added filler properties in the compound that are hiding the scratches? I thought I had read that using compounds with added filler properties doesn't truly get the best polishing jobs.
 
To add to what Chris said, the lower the humidity, the more you'll need to keep a spray bottle handy to mist the area. Otherwise you'll end up wasting compound trying not to buff dry.
 
I've had my best success while buffing using either a wool pad or a foam pad by cleaning the surface thoroughly, cleaning between each step. Example: cut with 1,000 grit, wash panel off with either clean water of Sprayway glass cleaner. Then cut again with 1,500 and clean with clean water or Sprayway glass cleaner. Continue that process through the refinement grits.

Once I get to buffing, I make my buff with a cutting compound, then clean the area once again with either clean water or Sprayway glass cleaner. I repeat these procedure thru out the buffing process. I have found following this procedure I was able to eliminate scratches without introducing new scratches, and was also able to eliminate any hazing effect or dull looking finish.

Keeping the area "clean" is paramount to a successful bright clean finish.

By the way, I use SprayWay glass cleaner between each step in lieu clean water. Our tap water out here comes from a well that has lots of deposits in the water.

20230514_094904.jpg
 
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Chris_Hamilton said:
Wool pad is a world different than the Hexlogic and V32. So much faster. I know Shine like that stuff but after trying it and buffing two cars with the stuff I don't think I'll use their compound again. Pads are pretty decent, but the compound is slow and everything has to be perfect. Wool you can get away with more.

To avoid splatter, I just apply 3 or 4 small blobs on the wool pad, then spread it around a little before running the buffer. Start the buffer slow initially then come up to speed. Sometimes I'll use a single mist shot of water from a sprayer to keep things wet. Three to at most four small blobs spread out on the pad is how much I use. Less is more especially when you get the pad working for a while. You have to be more aware as well with wool as you can do more damage. Especially catching an edge. Another reason why I like to wet the work area or pad with a squirt of water as I'm buffing.

As for cleaning, with a traditional old style wool pad, you can go for quite a while without cleaning. Sometimes a wet cloth or paint wipe and spinning the buffer will help clean it a bit. Traditional way with old style wool pads is to wait till the compound dries out on the pad and use a buffing spur to clean it. Flat screwdriver works too. With the 3D Xtra Cut pad I've been using, I simply rinse it out with cold water, shake it out then spin it on the buffer to get the excess water out. Then back to buffing. That pad you need to clean it quite often. Every large panel or so. It behaves more like a foam pad in that regard. But using it doesn't make your work area look like you murdered a sheep either. :)
Click to expand...
This is pretty much exactly what I’ve been doing with the wool but I still get a lot of splatter going every where. I’m just using a little spritz of water from a spray bottle.

Since I’m buffing single stage it builds up in the pad a lot faster so I clean it about 4 reloads or once I tell it starts to get too much build up. It becomes noticeably less effective as it becomes built up.

I use a buffing spur, water spray bottle and Chemical Guys pad cleaner. I try not to soak the wool excessively as this will cause it to felt. I’m using a Wizards pad. I don’t have any issues with it throwing wool everywhere.
 
Lizer said:
This is pretty much exactly what I’ve been doing with the wool but I still get a lot of splatter going every where. I’m just using a little spritz of water from a spray bottle.

Since I’m buffing single stage it builds up in the pad a lot faster so I clean it about 4 reloads or once I tell it starts to get too much build up. It becomes noticeably less effective as it becomes built up.

I use a buffing spur, water spray bottle and Chemical Guys pad cleaner. I try not to soak the wool excessively as this will cause it to felt. I’m using a Wizards pad. I don’t have any issues with it throwing wool everywhere.
Click to expand...

To control splatter going everywhere, I place 4 dots of compound on my buffing pad. Then I smear the dots on the pad on to the panel. Once the panel has been smeared, I start my buffer on the slowest speed and work the compound in just a tad, them ramp up the speed to polish.
 
MJM said:
Maybe you're having success with the Meguiars M100 because it has added filler properties in the compound that are hiding the scratches? I thought I had read that using compounds with added filler properties doesn't truly get the best polishing jobs.
Click to expand...
The M100 is the best I've used! Every step gets cleaned with 710 or 91% IPA to check for progress. I really like it.
 
AAE said:
The M100 is the best I've used! Every step gets cleaned with 710 or 91% IPA to check for progress. I really like it.
Click to expand...

I too have used the M100. Wasn't sure what to expect from it since I picked up a bottle, at all places, Harbor Freight. I assumed it has other filler properties in it, wish I knew how to know for sure. I have yet to try IPA to clean with. Where are you getting that product from?
 
I know about the cowboy spur for cleaning wool pads but I recently decide to purchase this brush which claims to clean the foam pads?
Do you bother with cleaning the foam pad? I was washing them out before reuse?

Pad Cleaners.jpg


The set was $15 so I got it coming anyway.
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.
.
 
MJM said:
I too have used the M100. Wasn't sure what to expect from it since I picked up a bottle, at all places, Harbor Freight. I assumed it has other filler properties in it, wish I knew how to know for sure. I have yet to try IPA to clean with. Where are you getting that product from?
Click to expand...
Walmart? Any supermarket. Isopropyl alcohol.

It’s a cutting compound so it’s not going to have fillers. Products with fillers are swirl removers and some polishes.
 
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clubairth said:
I know about the cowboy spur for cleaning wool pads but I recently decide to purchase this brush which claims to clean the foam pads?
Do you bother with cleaning the foam pad? I was washing them out before reuse?

View attachment 28348

The set was $15 so I got it coming anyway.
.
.
.
Click to expand...
I use chemical guys pad cleaner for cleaning foam pads. Works very well. Spray some on then rinse the pad out under the hydrant. Put it on buffer to spin water out and it’s ready to go again. You do not need a brush with chemical guys cleaner.
 
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