Touchup on a Pea sized rust spot. Possible with a SS?

[777funk]

I'm thinking it'd be better to go base/clear but this is a solid color (no metallic) and it's white.

Could I pull off sanding the spot gone (maybe 180, 220, 320) then 2k prime, then SS color coat on top of that?

This is on a 94 Mercedes Benz E320.

 

[Barry]

Are you sure that is an SS??????? I would not have guessed that on that Model.

You can spot in SS, no different then spotting in clear.

 

[777funk]

Are you sure that is an SS??????? I would not have guessed that on that Model.

You can spot in SS, no different then spotting in clear.

You know I don't think it is. I had heard that the older MB's were but I swear I've seen peeling clear coat on some from even 1987 or so.

I was thinking SS simply to save time and because it's white (easier as far as DOI etc).

I'm new to touchup work (at least on cars) but I touch-up guitars pretty regularly. With those I HAVE to clear my touchup work because peel or even the smoothest off the gun finish is not an option.

I'd think trying to make a touchup blend (having to deal with overspray etc) would be easier if I clear it and wetsand and buff at least just a little (not level since the rest of the car isn't a glass level finish). But I don't know too much about this so I figured I'd ask before I start using guitar ideas on cars.



My guess (as a non bodyman) at the easiest route to success would be:
-Sand out the pea-180,220,320
-Scuff to about a 12-18" area (not sure what grit)
-focus on covering the pea with light passes just on the couple inches around itself with primer then a few more inches with color-sand the primer to 320
-clear almost the 12-18" area but don't go outside the scuffing in order to avoid a layer line in the clear
-sand the scuffing at 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000
-buff out my scratches using a medium compound then a fine (I have a gallon of Menzerna medium that's actually pretty glossy on a foam and cuts well on a wool)

Question on primer. If I use a 2k primer, would I need a sealer? If I use epoxy primer (in white most likely), could I skip sealer? Any advantages one way or the other there?

I plan to flip this car but I still want to do a good job.

 

[777funk]

Here's a picture of how severe (or minor) the spot is. To my eye it almost looks like someone shot the car from a distance with a .177 pellet. It's an indent about that size. So it will also need filler of some sort.

On a side note, I wonder if I could use SPI white epoxy primer as the color coat. I mix my own colors regularly (finally got a small dedoes mixing setup) and this car looks like Titanium Dioxide White to me I don't see much in the color than just white.

 

[crashtech]

You'll be much better off clearing the whole panel, or if an open blend is deemed necessary, make it a very small one up on the rear pillar, it will be much easier to manage.

 

[Bob Hollinshead]

Scuff the panel and do your clear blend in the rear pillar like crash suggested. You'll need so blending solvent to melt your dry edge. Scuff up the blend area with some 2000 or 3000 grit or some aggressive rubbing compound and make sure it's perfectly clean. There's a thread somewhere here that gets into the prepwork and application of a clear blend.

 

[777funk]

Thanks for the information there guys. Should I wrap around the tail light and go right to the edge of the panel?

I'm guessing that I'll have a layering effect (can't remember the name but I've seen it when I haven't scuffed a touchup area enough) if I don't clear the whole panel?

 

[Bob Hollinshead]

Wrap around the rear of the panel to the gate opening, do the blend in the pillar so you don't have to take the clear into the roof and down into the other quarter. The size of your color blend will depend on how well the paint matches and how well it covers. On colors that cover quickly and match well the color blend can be kept quite small. The first coat of clear goes into the pillar just a little then take the next coat out just a little further and melt the dry edge with a few mist coats of blending solvent. Allow the blend area to cure up really well before any buffing, go easy with the buffing and don't generate a lot of heat because that thin edge is fragile compared to the fully cured paint below.