Trying to get it right

S

Storey

I just want to verify my steps before I mess up. I keep confusing myself. I already sprayed a panel with epoxy and it has sat in the sun for a couple days. Now I need to scuff the epoxy to apply body filler and then feather that out. Now do I respray the epoxy over the filler and then spray high build poly primer and then reduce the epoxy to seal? Of course after all blocking is done. Or do I apply filler and feather out and then spray high build poly primer and then recoat the epoxy then seal with the epoxy? Any input is appreciated. Thanks.
 
You can apply filler on SPI epoxy without scuffing it within 7 days of being sprayed. and I always spot in the bare metal and filler spots with epoxy before 2k just to be safe but I believe you can spray 2k over body filler.

hopefully someone with a sure answer will respond soon, hope this helps

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You can apply filler on SPI epoxy without scuffing it within 7 days of being sprayed. and I always spot in the bare metal and filler spots with epoxy before 2k just to be safe but I believe you can spray 2k over body filler.

hopefully someone with a sure answer will respond soon, hope this helps
 
I also spot in all my filler and bare spots before 2k/poly primer. You will see a bit of mapping with the epoxy over the filler spots but it will go away with the 2k primer. And be sure your epoxy is setup after spotting in before applying poly primer. I think I was told minimum 48-72 hours at 65+ degrees.

Barry's 2k is quite nice, I prefer it over the poly primers myself.

And even tho there is no requirement to scuff inside the 7 day window I always just go ahead and do it after things have set overnight, it only takes a couple minutes and is cheap insurance I figure.

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I also spot in all my filler and bare spots before 2k/poly primer. You will see a bit of mapping with the epoxy over the filler spots but it will go away with the 2k primer. And be sure your epoxy is setup after spotting in before applying poly primer. I think I was told minimum 48-72 hours at 65+ degrees.

Barry's 2k is quite nice, I prefer it over the poly primers myself.

And even tho there is no requirement to scuff inside the 7 day window I always just go ahead and do it after things have set overnight, it only takes a couple minutes and is cheap insurance I figure.
 
When blocking out filler, do you clean the surface with wax and grease remover between coats? Once you have the surface ready for sealer, do you clean again with wax and grease remover?
 
Between coats of filler? No. If you mean between coats of epoxy it depends bow you mean.

If you have your epoxy mixed and ready then wgr the panel/car, spray coat one after the 30 min flash for wgr, wait 30 spray the second coat, wait 30 spray the third.

If I sprayed 3 coats yesterday then today I did filler work and plan to respray, then yes I wgr before I spray.

Hope that made sense.

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Between coats of filler? No. If you mean between coats of epoxy it depends bow you mean.

If you have your epoxy mixed and ready then wgr the panel/car, spray coat one after the 30 min flash for wgr, wait 30 spray the second coat, wait 30 spray the third.

If I sprayed 3 coats yesterday then today I did filler work and plan to respray, then yes I wgr before I spray.

Hope that made sense.
 
There's really no need to apply epoxy between polyester fillers and polyprimer unless there's bare metal showing, it won't hurt a thing if you do but not a necessity. Polyester on polyester is always ok.
 
I was blocking out a roof that has a lot of issues over a wide area. It was 90 degress plus. I watched a drop of sweat fall from my forehead to the filler and it soaked it up like a sponge faster than I could get it wiped up. This made me wonder where the contaminate went and how it would affect paint or another coat of fill if I had to skim the roof again. The concern was cleaning up a contaminate between two coats of rage gold filler. It sounds like it would be acceptable to wipe down a filled area before applying a skim coat of filler if a contaminate has been introduced or if blocking has exposed bare metal. Otherwise, it is not necessary. That is what I assumed from the posts.
 
Outlaw, you are right. When doing filler work the typical scenario is sand, dust if off with compressed air, and apply more filler as needed. But if you know there was contamination then yes it should be cleaned with solvent before more is applied. Always clean before primer is applied. Just last week my Son told me the shop he works in has been seeing some comebacks with primer bubbling and they also noticed it's only the work done by one technician, that tech does not clean before primer-instead he just dusts off the panel with air and rubs his hand over the area untill it "feels" clean. Nobody else in the shop has had any problems.
 
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