Weld "voids" what to do.. options

C

cstrom72

I had another post on my sunken weld woe's now since I couldnt massage it back out to proud the weld, i have some small "voids" on the edges of welds that I cannot grind out in fear of thinning the metal around it. What options do I have (see pic) I know I could spend the next week welding each little hole and grinding which I still think in turn is going to cause me more grief from excess grinding.

One place I read said to use TSP or CLR to clean the areas and or neutralize any oxidation then clean with the SPIs waterborn W&G remover then prime. Somewhere or someone also said if I get a spot sand blaster I can shoot the areas and that will remove the unwanted stuff in the small holes. Reccomendations???? thanks pits.jpg
 
I know you are concerned with excess heat, but personally I would spend the extra time and weld up the pin holes, you only want to do this once correct?
But if the back of the panel is accessible and you feel confident in your ability to prep it you can epoxy and seam seal them, and if its just a weekend car it may be just fine.
I have had problems in the past with pin holes on a daily driver that will see weather, salt/sand etc when its hard to do a decent job prepping/sealing the back side.
If you leave the pin holes, spot blasting them is mandatory, including the back side.

Edit: Maybe I misunderstood you, if they are just pits and do not penetrate fully, spot blast them and epoxy.
 
I'd just hit it good with soapy dawn and the pressure washer followed by the shop vac to dry. then the w&g. Then a fine artists brush to dab the pinners full of epoxy. Once I feel they are sealed I'd lay it flat and fill that void with more epoxy and let it cure for a few weeks. Filler and go... But I'm not going for a 'no filler' quality work either. I'd stay away from the CLR, I think its an acid.
 
1. Put a small halogen shop light behind the panel and you'll be amazed at all the pinholes. I hit them with a quick tack with the mig till no more light shows through. If the pinholes are left open, there is a path for moisture to get to the back side of your filler job and since the filler is porous, it will eventually bubble up - although it may take years if not exposed to the weather much.
 
Arrowhead;23188 said:
1. Put a small halogen shop light behind the panel and you'll be amazed at all the pinholes. I hit them with a quick tack with the mig till no more light shows through. If the pinholes are left open, there is a path for moisture to get to the back side of your filler job and since the filler is porous, it will eventually bubble up - although it may take years if not exposed to the weather much.
Click to expand...

This is the way to take care of pin holes.
 
The OP is dealing with a flanged lap joint, so it's questionable whether light will penetrate the holes. The lap joint is why I suggested media blasting in the other thread, what can be done with them to straighten them is limited, and here we have another limitation as well. Personally, I would just blast this seam and epoxy it, brushing it into the pits where necessary. Might need to come back again the next day and do it again before the epoxy seals the holes, but once it does, it'll be OK as long as the backside receives epoxy and seam sealer along the flange.
 
The weld is definately solid, I had a very bright flashlight behind the panel, which I have excellet access to since I have not tack welded the wheel tubs in yet. The back side is epoxied along with the wheelwells im about to tack in. They are just small pits where the welds meet, not pin holes. I have a speed blaster on the way and im going with the crushed glass 30-70 grit media that I will blast the weld areas then epoxy. Only the top of the weld was flanged the sides I buttwelded
 
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