What Are These Spots?

M

milanomaroon

Promoted Users
I just finished painting my jambs and door edges. Used Wandabase and Euroclear over 1:1:1: epoxy sealer (gray). Just to back up a bit, I am a novice at this. I have used epoxy primer before and sprayed some base and clear but it's been awhile.

So after 2 coats of base yesterday I sprayed two coats of clear this morning. After the first coat of clear I noticed several spots (maybe little divots lighter in color than my base) in a couple of areas. What's puzzling I hadn't seen them before I sprayed the clear. Since a couple are on the door bottom and the others are on the lower jamb I'm going to live with it. But I would like to determine why before I spray the main body of the car.

Only thing I might add, I didn't activate the base. I wanted to but just forgot. Everything else seemed to be OK. Sanded cured epoxy with 180g, sprayed 2 new coats of epoxy 2 days ago, sprayed epoxy sealer and two coats of base, then clear. Used SPI water based wax and grease remover.
 

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SPI water based cleaner is very powerful stuff but I personally do not use it prior to painting for this very reason. Also, you cannot wipe base down with it as it will remove the paint.

The solvent based cleaner is a much better choice prior to spraying primer, paint and clear, in my opinion. I can apply it with a spray bottle and wipe it off before it dries with a clean shop towel. As soon as the towel comes up clean on each panel, I let it set for at least 10 minutes to completely flash off. Then spray my paint.

Also, I am strong advocate for 3 coats of base on darker colors and even more with lighter colors to ensure a "true color" prior to clear. If you have a spray out card (black and white squares) you can shoot a coat and let it flash. You will see the color vary depending on the color of the square below. You continue to spray one coat at a time until you cannot see any variance in the color. This the number of coats that paint will require to get to true color.
 
'68 Coronet R/T said:
SPI water based cleaner is very powerful stuff but I personally do not use it prior to painting for this very reason. Also, you cannot wipe base down with it as it will remove the paint.

The solvent based cleaner is a much better choice prior to spraying primer, paint and clear, in my opinion. I can apply it with a spray bottle and wipe it off before it dries with a clean shop towel. As soon as the towel comes up clean on each panel, I let it set for at least 10 minutes to completely flash off. Then spray my paint.

Also, I am strong advocate for 3 coats of base on darker colors and even more with lighter colors to ensure a "true color" prior to clear. If you have a spray out card (black and white squares) you can shoot a coat and let it flash. You will see the color vary depending on the color of the square below. You continue to spray one coat at a time until you cannot see any variance in the color. This the number of coats that paint will require to get to true color.
Click to expand...

Now I know how to use a spray out card, thanks.
 
Thank you all for the replies. I have been very careful to try and control any potential for contamination so I am happy we have identified a possible culprit. Not saying this is it but I will not use the SPI #700 and try something else. I have an old can of Dupont Prep-Sol. Do you think I could try that?

As far as the two coats of base it appears to be good coverage on the jambs and door edges but I plan on applying 3 coats for the body.
 
the 700 does work great. the problem is because its water base people tend to paint on the cleaned surface too fast. it could be cool super humid day and water will stay in and on the primer forever where a hot and dry day it will completely flash in just minutes. the surface could feel dry but there could still be a certain % of moisture on the surface. the prep-sol i believe is a mineral spirit base so less affected by temp and humidity. even with that though its always good to wait a bit. really the thing to do is wipe with both a water and solvent cleaner since they both remove a different set of contaminants
 
A note on the color. 2 coats is almost certainly not full coverage if that is a red pearl as it appears to be. A sprayout card needs to be used to find out how many coats it takes to get true coverage, something like these:

tcpglobal.com

TCP Global Paint Color Matching Spray Out Cards (Pack of 100) - Checkered Test Panels for Coating Coverage, Hiding Power, Sheen, Automotive, Bodyshop

TCP Global Paint Color Matching Spray Out Cards (Pack of 100) - Checkered Test Panels for Coating Coverage, Hiding Power, Sheen, Automotive, Bodyshop
tcpglobal.com

Some of the red pearls I have used can take up to 6 coats to achieve true coverage, that's where you need to select the proper shade of undercoat to achieve the look that the color is supposed to have. Light grey was probably a decent choice in your instance, but even still, if it's one of those colors that takes 6 coats to cover, you certainly don't want to stop at 2, you want maybe 4 with the correct undercoat color.
 
crashtech said:
A note on the color. 2 coats is almost certainly not full coverage if that is a red pearl as it appears to be. A sprayout card needs to be used to find out how many coats it takes to get true coverage, something like these:

tcpglobal.com

TCP Global Paint Color Matching Spray Out Cards (Pack of 100) - Checkered Test Panels for Coating Coverage, Hiding Power, Sheen, Automotive, Bodyshop

TCP Global Paint Color Matching Spray Out Cards (Pack of 100) - Checkered Test Panels for Coating Coverage, Hiding Power, Sheen, Automotive, Bodyshop
tcpglobal.com

Some of the red pearls I have used can take up to 6 coats to achieve true coverage, that's where you need to select the proper shade of undercoat to achieve the look that the color is supposed to have. Light grey was probably a decent choice in your instance, but even still, if it's one of those colors that takes 6 coats to cover, you certainly don't want to stop at 2, you want maybe 4 with the correct undercoat color.
Click to expand...
thank you for the reply. if it turns out to be too light what can i do now since i've cleared it? can i scuff the clear and add a couple of coats of base and clear again?
 
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