What every new painter must read!

I’m a new member here and have learned a lot that I didn’t know. I’m a DIY guy that has done 3-4 paint jobs with the help of a very good friend that restores cars professionally. He is a DPI customer as well. Considering cost of materials I’m thankful to know about not touching metal with bare hands. It’s common sense but I never thought about it. That one tip could save me a lot of money. That’s really priceless.
 
Why, worry about the floor, has no effect on how clean the car is, dirt does not jump from floor to car, dirt in paint comes from car and painter, not floor.

Did you see that $600,000+ Gto, black base, three coats of ms clear, wetsanded with 800 and three more coats of MS clear and through the whole process, no water on the floor.
Barry I am painting a homebuilt aircraft called a Rans S-21 Outbound .Is all Aluminum. I want to clean it real good with purple scotch brite water and Dawn dish soap, then degreaser and wax remover using scotch brite. Pressure wash after degreaser and wax remover .let sit over night to dry good.I will pick low humidity day and will paint in my shop that will be transformed into a paint booth with good suction fan. I read where it takes two gal of SPI epoxy primer and that afternoon scuff that up with the purple scotch brite.The next moring I will paint a big portion of the plane white then that afternoon I will tape off and scuff the white that will gets covered with the light grey SPI paint the lower part for three 21/2 inch stripes and solid light gey on the rest of the lower half. Next morning I will paint the grey mixed from a gallon of white SPI and quart of black SPI ,not using all the black but will measure as it goes in until the color grey is what I want.. I will remove the tape as soon as possible. I want to do this as single phase paint job,no clear.I have never painted anything with a paint gun but I think I can pull it off.Please tell me if I missed a step or anything I need to do or watch out for.If you sell the paint and supplies I need I would like to purchase them from you. Thank you
 
Here is the first issue, are you sanding the plane, and the epoxy must be applied the day you sand it.
You can save some time skipping the wash, sand, and clean with 700-1 only for aluminum.
 
Just to let you know, Barry is the owner of Southern Polyurethanes. Use a prep wipe with Wax and Grease remover, not Scotchbrite. W&G remover works by lifting contaminants to the surface then they need to be wiped away, All you will do with scotchbrite is move everything around.
You will need to sand the aluminum with 180 or use an acid prep product like Alodine to prep the aluminum (if it is bare). if you use a Alodine or something similar you need to use it correctly. Main thing is the product needs to be rinsed with water while it is wet with itself. You don't want to let it dry and apply epoxy over the acid product. Whichever method you choose you need to epoxy the surface within 8 hours or so because aluminum starts to oxidize almost immediately.
Pressure washing and scuffing with purple scotchbrite isn't good enough. I googled purple scotch brite because I am not aware of it, all I could find was a scour pad. Not what you should use. DA sand with 180 grit or use a Aircraft prep product like Alodine if prepping bare aluminum.

Edit I used the term Alodine. I should not have. It is not a prep wash. You should use an acid prep wash. Bonderite is one brand that is used in aviation. Ospho is popular among automotive people.
 
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Since Berry says not to wet your floor south of Mason Dixon line I’m assuming if rain is forecasted you should not spray base or clearcoat due to the humidity even though the parts are in a clean dry garage - correct? I’m having a problem finding 3 to 4 days where rain isn’t forecasted!
 
As far as imperfect painting conditions, humidity is down the list. Don't worry, not going to ruin it, just shoot it, IMO.
 
As far as imperfect painting conditions, humidity is down the list. Don't worry, I'm not going to ruin it; shoot it, IMO.
Thank you, sir. I prefer to clear when it is raining or there is high humidity.
Wetting the floor is unrelated as far as what it can cause.
 
Here is what can happen, first Iso's cure with moisture and air, if the conditions are just right and you wet the floor, when the gun atomizes the clear, it can mix too much moisture and can cause ISO clumping, they look like specks of dirt and come in white, gray or black, most painters just think its normal dirt.

This does not apply to enamels, most medium solid clears or clear with lower grade resins.
The reason is, the better the clear the More Iso's it takes to cure it, so the tin is stuffing an excessive amount of moisture in the clear and the moisture is acting as an accelerator.

What about Artificial Grass Turf Rugs. In a hobbiest or home garage, no wetting, just a dry rug to hold down the base and clear. Vacuum or shake outside when done.
 
Thank you, sir. I prefer to clear when it is raining or there is high humidity.
Wetting the floor is unrelated as far as what it can cause.
The slickest clear I’ve ever shot in my life is while it was raining
 
I don't see no problem, just mow it when your not painting. LOL
Alright, I'll mow after finishing the painting. It might actually be a good idea to have some turf grass in the clear coat - it'll give the impression that I'm always keeping the lawn well-maintained.
 
The third ranked call and way down the list of maybe only 20-30 calls a year is spot bubbling because of lacquer thinner being used to clean the metal.
I don't believe I have ever used lacquer thinner as a W&G on anything I cared about... I am pretty sure.
I do understand it evaporates to fast to properly clean. Is that the only reason?
 
What I remember was the thinner let the contaminants sink into the scratches, W&G lifts the contaminants to the top so they can be wiped off
 
I don't believe I have ever used lacquer thinner as a W&G on anything I cared about... I am pretty sure.
I do understand it evaporates to fast to properly clean. Is that the only reason?
It just smears the contaminants around. W&G remover works by lifting the contaminants to the surface so they can then be wiped off.
 
If you ever use lacquer thinner or acetone on a spot to get something off, to be safe, go over it with a wax and grease remover, and you are good to go.
I had to use a urethane reducer three times on both panels. I took off the RV because I had to spray those two panels monthly with WD40 to protect and clean the chit paint used by the factory on those steps.
When I thought I had them clean, I used 700 and 710.
Slammed two wet coats of epoxy in 5 minutes and, about 4 hours later, shot two coats of spi black SS.
 

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If you ever use lacquer thinner or acetone on a spot to get something off, to be safe, go over it with a wax and grease remover, and you are good to go.
I had to use a urethane reducer three times on both panels. I took off the RV because I had to spray those two panels monthly with WD40 to protect and clean the chit paint used by the factory on those steps.
When I thought I had them clean, I used 700 and 710.
Slammed two wet coats of epoxy in 5 minutes and, about 4 hours later, shot two coats of spi black SS.
Did you call the tech line to make sure 4 hours was long enough?
 
Did you call the tech line to make sure 4 hours was long enough?
I forgot!
I got 3 runs in my first coat of epoxy but I knew the anti slip would cover.
Long story short I sanded off about 50% other crap coating and abused it as let it blow up now than later still good week later. I may have won.
 
Did you call the tech line to make sure 4 hours was long enough?

It's the weekend... that luxury we got use to is not there anymore but we are glad Barry is enjoying retirement... it is great work if you can get it (I can confirm that is the truth as well).
 
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