What grit to scuff epoxy before 2K primer

T

tonysturbo

Body work is done on top of my expoy primer, but it's longer then the 72 hour window to re-coat with 2K primer, so i was wondering if sanding the entire car down with 220 grit would be good enough for the primer to bit into. Or would the red scuff pad be good enough. Just so you know i did not use SPI's epoxy primer i used S.W 483-660 that we use on aircrafts. I did re-epoxy over the bondo work already. I called Berry but to my surprise he didn't call back...maybe he's busy. DSC_1990.jpg
 
I dont see why 220 would be an issue. I've always used a new red scuff pad for a final once over to make sure I get into all of the tight spots good.
 
orangejuiced86;13109 said:
I dont see why 220 would be an issue. I've always used a new red scuff pad for a final once over to make sure I get into all of the tight spots good.
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Cool,Thanks. Just wanted to make sure. This is the first time I've done it this way and just wasn't 100% sure. I don't want the primer to peel down the road...lol
 
You might want to check with the manufacturer because most epoxys have to be recoated with more epoxy, when you are past the recoat window.
 
I think you should sand it and recoat it with itself before proceeding with urethane primer. This will ensure maximum adhesion. This happens to be an excellent recommendation for SPI epoxy primer when it is beyond the recoat window as well.
 
Well after taking to Berry, It's not necessary to re-coat the entire car with epoxy. It just needs to be scuff to help the 2K primer adhere to the epoxy. You could do it but not really needed. If i was painting over the epoxy, then i would sand the entire car again for sure and re-apply before base. See this epoxy primer I use can be sanded with 320 grit and painted over. We do planes all the time this way and the planes do 500 plus MPH and the paint don't fall off, so it goes to say that even with just scuffing the epoxy for the 2K primer, it should be fine without the worry of bad adhesion. I was just unsure as to what grit would be the best. But thanks for all your input guys. You made me think twice before going forward. And thanks Berry for your input.
 
I've seen some epoxies that can be washed off even after a two year cure so I'd bet the recoat requirements can be very different from one brand to another.
 
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