I have been poking away at my 69 firebird project for some time now and keep running into things to re-do that the previous project owner thought were "ok". Anyway, I stripped the car down to bare metal and coated it with a couple coats of SPI epoxy about 18 months ago. I replaced the roof, got a new hood, replaced the filler panel between the trunk lid and the rear window, pulled some major dents form the tail panel, added length and width to the doors, etc. I did some filler work on the tail panel and the sail panel and now have some bare metal spots showing. Was gonna spray a fresh coat of epoxy, guide coat, fill low spots with Rage, and they? I have a gallon of 2K urethane primer and a 1.8 tip for my gun. Would this be enough fill if I have mainly new body panels and plan to get most of the major fill done with the rage or glaze?
What primers to use?
- Thread starter jlwdvm
- Start date
P
PatG
strum456;17853 said:
So you recommend epoxy on bare metal, then again over filler. Then, 2K and more epoxy as sealer, under base coat? I understood epoxy over bare metal and as final sealer but am not sure why you don't just spray 2K right over the filler/glaze work and skip the intermediate epoxy step? That's a lot of spraying....
Thanks for the advice. I love this forum.
Pat
For 2 reasons that i am aware of.
1. When blocking your filler, it is very likley that you will hit bare metal. Spraying epoxy over the repair areas will bond to and protect the exposed metal better than 2k.
2. Epoxy will seal off the repairs. This helps to protect the filler from moisture if the paint is chipped. It will also help to prevent repair mapping.
I am not saying that you can't skip this step and just go right to 2k. Sealing your repairs with epoxy is just the best way. If you don't hit bare metal when sanding, this extra step is probably not as important.
A lot of us just keep mixed epoxy on stock when we're working. In a sealed container, it will last for 72 hours, give or take. Keeping some epoxy mixed and ready to spray might make things a little easier.
1. When blocking your filler, it is very likley that you will hit bare metal. Spraying epoxy over the repair areas will bond to and protect the exposed metal better than 2k.
2. Epoxy will seal off the repairs. This helps to protect the filler from moisture if the paint is chipped. It will also help to prevent repair mapping.
I am not saying that you can't skip this step and just go right to 2k. Sealing your repairs with epoxy is just the best way. If you don't hit bare metal when sanding, this extra step is probably not as important.
A lot of us just keep mixed epoxy on stock when we're working. In a sealed container, it will last for 72 hours, give or take. Keeping some epoxy mixed and ready to spray might make things a little easier.
B
Bob Hollinshead
A gallon may be enough but a complete including the jambs is a lot of surface area, and it really depends on how well your bodywork is finished and how well you want the finished product to be. The basic proceedure-start your blocking with a grit no less than 180 and see how it shapes up-then you can determine whether to work on small areas that need more attention or if it will need another complete round of priming and blocking at this grit level. Once it's shaped up in 180 and if there's enough build you can guidecoat it again and take it to a finer grit-320 or 400 or reprime if needed. What color is this going to be?jlwdvm;17826 said:
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PatG
crashtech;17874 said:
Thanks for the tips. I will have some bare metal when I block so I'll go ahead and spray another coat of epoxy. Much appreciated.
I sprayed the roof, quarters, quarter jam, deck lid, and tail panel last night since we had a nice 70 degree day in Iowa! Had the heater cranked up too (metal temp was over 70).
So far the panels have had 2 coats of epoxy, filled major low spots and seams that were welded shut with Rage, hit all the panels with 80 grit on a block and a red scotch brite for any remaining shiny spots, then shot a coat of fresh epoxy last night. Plan on hitting it with a guide coat (spray-on) and blocking, then fill low spots with filler. The car will be white with blue stripes (69 Trans Am). When blocking, does the guide coat have to be removed from low spots before filler is applied?
So far the panels have had 2 coats of epoxy, filled major low spots and seams that were welded shut with Rage, hit all the panels with 80 grit on a block and a red scotch brite for any remaining shiny spots, then shot a coat of fresh epoxy last night. Plan on hitting it with a guide coat (spray-on) and blocking, then fill low spots with filler. The car will be white with blue stripes (69 Trans Am). When blocking, does the guide coat have to be removed from low spots before filler is applied?