What should I do next after filler?

T

TrevO

Here is where I am in my project thus far on my 55 chevy..
I took a door down to bare metal with 80.
Sprayed two coats of spi epoxy.
Applied 3m platinum filler the next day.
Blocked with 80. It is looking good!
There are pinholes in several spots, as well as some light sand through to metal whereas I stopped.

What should I do at this point? Glaze?

Thanks!
 
The article on this website called perfect paint job explains it pretty good. It says to spray a wet coat of epoxy on the filler and bare metal spots. Then I would use glaze over that to fill your pin holes.

Danford1
 
If your glaze is only going to go over the pinholes and no bare metal then you wouldn't need to re-apply epoxy. For the highest quality results always apply filler over epoxy instead of bare metal but keep in mind you can apply body filler over metal. Main reason for epoxy then filler is that filler is porous and if it sits for any length of time it will start to absorb moisture. The epoxy serves as a barrier as well as improving adhesion.
 
Yeah, technically all bare metal needs epoxy before reapplication of filler. It's safest to recommend this because a glaze coat could accidentally remain over the bare metal, leaving an area of "filler over metal" that is more susceptible to corrosion than its surroundings.
 
Thanks. Because I have a few bare spots I will spray some epoxy on those for sure. Should I "only" glaze over the pinholes and not the entire door? Thanks a lot
 
I would glaze the entire door over the epoxy using something thin. Then block sand the door followed by 2K Turbo.

Danford1
 
danford1;n82299 said:
I would glaze the entire door over the epoxy using something thin. Then block sand the door followed by 2K Turbo.

Danford1
Click to expand...

Hi Danford,

Would glazing over the whole surface be for catching any other possible holes or would it be to act as a base for leveling.

Mike
 
It does both. If you want a really flat panel for like a show car, then skim coat (glaze over) the entire door. Then when you block the door as one big item, the surface will be uniform and look good when painted. Keep in mind, as you block the door as one big item, you may sand through and hit a high spot here and there. Tap the high spots with a hammer a little before you put on more glaze. A high spot will always be high and can cause a sand through again. Sooooo, tap it down into a lower spot :) Don't get carried away. You don't want to make a deep dent, just a lower spot so it isn't high...

Danford1
 
Another option for a thin glazecoat would be a sprayable filler, such as evercoat g-2. It goes on rough & sands down slick which makes it work as it's own guide coat. Also saves time once you're past the first block sanding because you don't have to resand through a rough hand applied layer just to get back to smooth again. Then follow with a 2-k before a final thin sealer coat of epoxy..

​If you look back on Chad at auto rod technology's threads here or on pro-touring.com, one of his builds gives a little detail in all the extra steps he does to get a showcar finish. I think it was on Dante's chevelle?
 
Thanks for the help. Just to be sure that I am doing this correctly, I blocked the first layer of filler with 80 grit. Should I block sand with a finer grit before applying glaze or glaze over the 80 scratches?
 
I had my fenders done by a professional body guy, and he sprayed my leftover SPI epoxy on top of the filler work that he did. Is this ok? Or should we have sprayed regular primer?
fenders.JPG
 
That's fine. Before you get around to paint you'll just need to scuff them down & spray a thinned coat of epoxy as a sealer coat just before paint.
 
Should I block the glaze with 80 or 180 before I spray a final two coats of epoxy? Sorry but I am a bit confused on what grit to use at all the different stages of the process. I read the perfect paint job article and it didn't elaborate on grits.
 
In my opinion, 80 grit is meant for bare metal so the Epoxy has a tooth to grab onto and hold tight. After bare metal is covered and you are working on glaze I Would Not use 80 grit unless just to flatten out the high spots. 180 or 220 would be next. I don't know what size sand scratches epoxy sealer mixed 1:1:! will cover but in my opinion, others will vary, I'd go over it with 400 before the 'one coat' of primer sealer is applied. Once that dried 2 hours, spray the base coat.

Danford1
 
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