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What to use under carpet and in doors to deaden sound?

#22
The pothole was not that bad but the side-by-side 77s I nailed on the other side were nasty - Lincoln Mark V and Cadillac Coupe DeVille. They had some serious bumpers. Walked away with one small scratch.
 
#23
How does Barry's bedliner compare to Lizard Skin? I know they both seem to be like rubber undercoating 'paints,' but after that I'm guessing they're pretty different... I'd much rather prefer to buy Barry's bedliner to use as a sound deadener because 1) I'd rather give him business and 2) It's cheaper :).
 

Barry

Paint Fanatic
Staff member
#24
The bedliner has fair sound deadening and insulation properties but in all honesty, not as good as the Lizard Skin that is made for that purpose.
 
#27
shine;6164 said:
do a search on heat migration . you will find most of the foil back stuff will be as hot on top as bottom after a while. i use lizardskin on all the cars i build. .
Shine,

If you don't mind me asking. I'm sending my 65 Mustang Coupe to get the interior media blasted. I'm pretty set on Lizard skin for both ceramic insulation and sound control. I plan to epoxy the entire interior, then sound control, lastly ceramic insulation. After I spray the epoxy, do I need to prep the surface for the lizard skin? I would assume not; other than a wipe down with wax and grease remover?

Thanks in advance!
 
#28
there is a member on the team camaro site that sells deadener that is made by the same manufacturer as dynamat but is way way cheaper cuz it doesnt have the dynamat logo. im having a nifty time trying to locate that thread :(
 
#29
no extra prep over epoxy. i would let the epoxy set for a few days. lizardskin is a latex base . it calls for .040 thickness . i use all of it and end up with " dont know but a bunch ". i used 2 gals on my truck cab. even if i were going to use dynamat i would seal it up with lizardskin. heat migration is the key factor . every littel hole or gap lets in heat. no big deal on a dq cruizer but on long hauls it really shows up . that's why your a/c dumps so much water or freezes up. hot humid air is getting in.
 
#31
i have the gun to shoot it. it's adjustable. i think barry has them now. you can add about a pint of water to smooth it out.
 
#33
Wow another "I am so glad I saw this thread"!!!

I was going to drop a pile of money on Dynamat, but the Lizardskin solution sounds much better.
 
#35
I was reading the application order for Lizard Skin and had a question. Their site says;

"NOTE: When using both products (stacking) ALWAYS apply Sound Control FIRST then apply Ceramic Insulation on top."

Doesn't the Ceramic coating have a higher temp resistance? I was just trying to plan out the application for my 66 Mustang. Initially my plan is to have Epoxy as the base, then I was thinking of applying the Ceramic Insulation to both sides of the firewall and floor pans (and maybe seal the exterior parts with reduced epoxy for looks??). From there I was hoping to next apply the Sound Control to the interior firewall and interior floorboards.

But if I understand it right on the interior it would be sound control then ceramic insulation. I guess the exterior ceramic insulation would be the first line of heat protection? I am worried about heat since this car is keeping it's original shock towers and getting a 351w based motor. So it will be a tight fit with large tube dia. headers, supercharger, etc. I plan on driving it in the Tx heat with the AC on full blast :)
 
#37
I used fat mat on red caddy. Spent time covering all i could on door skin. Huge difference when i insert key in lock, you don't hear anything but key teeth. Also used it to replace vapor barrier which ain't fun fyi if/when you have to get back in door. Floor 2 layers cause original jute molded. Quieter then blue caddy with oem tar topped jute.
Spraying something sounds like a much easier route.
 
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