WHO MAKES A GOOD SINGLE STAGE?

G

Garrett1984

Promoted Users
What should I look for in a single stage urethane to ensure I am purchasing a quality paint? Perhaps there is a brand name I should zero in on? I also need the paint tinted to match OEM GM colors (Doeskin Tan and Frost White). Thank you.
 
They should be able to match any color you want . Years ago I had some mixed to match interior color. Painted dash, garnish mouldings and other stuff I can't remember lol..
 
I’ve sprayed a lot of Motorcryl and a bit of Wanda PU. Both are decent but Wanda is quite a bit cheaper. Motorcryl is 2:1 mix ratio and Wanda is 4:1. The Motorcryl hardener is also a lot more expensive than the Wanda.

I would give the edge to Motorcryl as the better product at least in terms of sprayability. I can spray Motorcryl much slicker than I can Wanda and I’m not sure why that is.
 
+1 for Motocryl. If price is no object then Glasurit 22 is top of the line. PPG Concept is also very good. Jim C uses Utech single stage alot. Availability may be an issue in places though. Spies Hecker also makes a good SS. Hard to beat Motocryl for the price. If price is no issue then Glasurit 22 hands down.
 
with no real easy source around here that sells brands i understand, i am loving the idea of just ordering from Barry. it would be great if there where more single stage colors.
only place nearby really is napa, and i dont understand what the different products are........not sure the guys in napa do either.
i like single stage. i have only done one bc cc and it did not last very long. admittedly it was cheap paint.
 
Treeslayer said:
with no real easy source around here that sells brands i understand, i am loving the idea of just ordering from Barry. it would be great if there where more single stage colors.
only place nearby really is napa, and i dont understand what the different products are........not sure the guys in napa do either.
i like single stage. i have only done one bc cc and it did not last very long. admittedly it was cheap paint.
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Yeah, I really wanted to use a SPI single stage but he doesn’t offer Blue anymore. I have ordered the Motocryl from Chad and had it delivered. He was very helpful and shipping as fast.
 
MAKZ06 said:
Yeah, I really wanted to use a SPI single stage but he doesn’t offer Blue anymore. I have ordered the Motocryl from Chad and had it delivered. He was very helpful and shipping as fast.
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i will be curious how you like it. keep us posted. most of the guys here seem to like it.
fortunately what we are about to paint is black, so spi it will be this time.
 
Treeslayer said:
i will be curious how you like it. keep us posted. most of the guys here seem to like it.
fortunately what we are about to paint is black, so spi it will be this time.
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Oh, I liked it. That’s why I recommended. I’m a newb and this was my first paint job but I thought it came out as well as could be expected given my lack of proper spray booth and no experience…. I have orange peel to cut and buff but that’s about operator error and lack of experience. You can check my profile for some posts I made with pics a couple months ago when I sprayed.
 
Jim C said:
have to agree with chris. of all the single stages i have ever used over the years the glasurit 22 line is on another level. its the best i have ever used. anything glasurit os going to be pricy though. utech is inexpensive and a very good product.
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I have been doing research for the past few hours...made some phone calls...Glasurit 22 is over $1000 per gallon! Can't afford that. I have been researching Utech. What qualities does this paint have that you find appealing?
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
+1 for Motocryl. If price is no object then Glasurit 22 is top of the line. PPG Concept is also very good. Jim C uses Utech single stage alot. Availability may be an issue in places though. Spies Hecker also makes a good SS. Hard to beat Motocryl for the price. If price is no issue then Glasurit 22 hands down.
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I think I will go ahead and forget Glasurit. A paint shop in Chattanooga sells it for $1000 per gallon! Anyways, do you think a person can't go wrong using PPG Concept, Motocryl, or Utech? You think one of these brands holds reign over the other?
 
They have a couple different ones. I ise the cheaper 500 because it serves the purpose of what i need it for. The 350 is a little better. Both are really the same but the 350 jas more body to it like spi clear so flows out a little better leaving a glassier surface. Both are durable as all hell and super chemical resistant. They do buff well but not as good as spi clear
 
MAKZ06 said:
Oh, I liked it. That’s why I recommended. I’m a newb and this was my first paint job but I thought it came out as well as could be expected given my lack of proper spray booth and no experience…. I have orange peel to cut and buff but that’s about operator error and lack of experience. You can check my profile for some posts I made with pics a couple months ago when I sprayed.
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guys, why is it, or what do us newbs do wrong that we get orange peel? thats probably my number one thing i dont want to happen again.
as you may guess from my thread on guns, i kinda blamed the HVLP, but i am open to suggestions on why it happens.
i would bet it happens to most inexperienced guys, however i didnt have it back in the day. so what changed? maybe i got dumber lol.
 
Treeslayer said:
guys, why is it, or what do us newbs do wrong that we get orange peel? thats probably my number one thing i dont want to happen again.
as you may guess from my thread on guns, i kinda blamed the HVLP, but i am open to suggestions on why it happens.
i would bet it happens to most inexperienced guys, however i didnt have it back in the day. so what changed? maybe i got dumber lol.
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I‘m the last one to ask. See some of my previous recent posts where I was asking. Got some good advice and recommendations. Can be all sorts of issues. Moving too fast, amount of overlap, need to open fluid control, too much or too little air pressure, and air temp. An experienced painter can adjust speed to accommodate the gun settings, or adjust gun settings to accommodate a particular speed across the panel. Takes practice and experience.
with me I think it was a combination of moving too fast worrying about getting runs, and not enough overlap. After the fact I could see ares that had more overlap or additional passes (like edges and corners) and areas where I slowed down, had almost no peel. Then following days I would spray and did everything the same and had different levels of peel or texture…
 
Treeslayer said:
guys, why is it, or what do us newbs do wrong that we get orange peel? thats probably my number one thing i dont want to happen again.
as you may guess from my thread on guns, i kinda blamed the HVLP, but i am open to suggestions on why it happens.
i would bet it happens to most inexperienced guys, however i didnt have it back in the day. so what changed? maybe i got dumber lol.
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Not so much your gun per se but how you set up and use your gun. You get orange peel because you put too much material on the panel and it doesn't flow out. Bump up the air pressure, reduce the fluid. It's putting less on and atomizing it better. You need to figure out empirically what the right speed to spray at is, as well as how close to hold your gun to the panel. And then use 70% overlap. Light coats will fill out and flow out with the addition of the overlapping coats.

I promise you I can say it a lot easier than I can actually do it. This summer, with my learnings gleaned from here, I finally got my LPH400 dialed in right and the technique I need for it, and I've been able to shoot really consistently slick panels. It's taken me since 2009 to get there lol. They're not mirror slick. They still have some slight texture but it will require minimal cutting to flatten it. That's really all I'm going for. Even when you look at pics pro's post, zoom in on the picture and look at the edges of reflections and you can see even they get a little bit of peel.
 
Just to be clear true orange peel is too little material or not enough overlap or a combination of the two. Texture from too much material is not orange peel. Not sure what you call it but it's not orange peel.

Like Lizer said, ,more overlap, less fluid, faster passes, increased air pressure, is the cure for texture from spraying heavy. Easier to spray faster and tighter (overlap) than it is to spray slower. Much easier IMO.

Lizer said:
Even when you look at pics pro's post, zoom in on the picture and look at the edges of reflections and you can see even they get a little bit of peel.
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Some days you feel like a nut, some days you don't.:)
 
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