Will my 6" DA polisher be enough.

T

Tungsten

Promoted Users
Recently sprayed some clear on a GM truck box,1 side.After 3 coats I got some ugly peel across the top part above the wheel well.Ill have to wet sand.
This polisher is a cheapo and will vibrate your arm off.2500-6000 rpm DA.Will this be enough to get out the scratches if I go the 1000-1500-2000 route?

Thanks.
 
Probably not. You can always go to harbor freight and get one of the rotaries that'll set you up for a while.
 
AAE said:
Probably not. You can always go to harbor freight and get one of the rotaries that'll set you up for a while.
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I confess. I bought the HF 7 inch polisher/sander 3 years ago. I thought "I'll use it till it quits and then get a good one." Darn thing just keeps going . . .

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10 Amp 7 in. Digital Variable Speed Polisher/Sander

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I dont know that a DA will take out 2000 grit. But then again I don't even use one to polish. I'd go higher to 3000, 5000 and the DA should work. But 1000 to 1500 is going to take some work to remove
 
RosharonRooster said:
I dont know that a DA will take out 2000 grit. But then again I don't even use one to polish. I'd go higher to 3000, 5000 and the DA should work. But 1000 to 1500 is going to take some work to remove
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So your saying start at 1000 and go to 5000? Or start higher like 2000 to 5000?
 
What he is saying is that he doesn't use a DA to polish out sand scratches. Almost nobody does, especially for large areas.
 
crashtech said:
What he is saying is that he doesn't use a DA to polish out sand scratches. Almost nobody does, especially for large areas.
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So what is it that makes a polisher better for scratch removal? I see variable speed up to 3500 rpm.Is it non DA or and the wool pad that does the work? Im thinking i should be able to remove them with a DA only real difference is the rotation.

So much to learn,thanks
 
Tungsten said:
So what is it that makes a polisher better for scratch removal? I see variable speed up to 3500 rpm.Is it non DA or and the wool pad that does the work? Im thinking i should be able to remove them with a DA only real difference is the rotation.

So much to learn,thanks
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Orbital polishers are not aggressive. The orbital action does not buff urethanes very well because they don't build up the heat necessary and the orbital pattern is not aggressive enough. You want to use a rotary polisher for paint buffing, especially when you cut then buff.

The pad and compound work in concert with the polisher. A rotary polisher allows the pad and compound to work as intended. An orbital is OK for detailing, applying waxes etc., it is just not aggressive enough to remove color sanding scratches very easily.

All you need to know is that no one uses them and you need a rotary for buffing when sanding then buffing.
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
Orbital polishers are not aggressive. The orbital action does not buff urethanes very well because they don't build up the heat necessary and the orbital pattern is not aggressive enough. You want to use a rotary polisher for paint buffing, especially when you cut then buff.

The pad and compound work in concert with the polisher. A rotary polisher allows the pad and compound to work as intended. An orbital is OK for detailing, applying waxes etc., it is just not aggressive enough to remove color sanding scratches very easily.

All you need to know is that no one uses them and you need a rotary for buffing when sanding then buffing.
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Thanks that makes sense, kinda PO'ed I bought the DA last year.Should have done more research and got the polisher.Live and learn.
 
It’s not common body shop practice. But you can definitely polish sanded clear with a DA. But, you will be doing much more sanding than using a rotary because you’ll have to refine your scratches to a high grit. And of course use an aggressive compound and pad.
 
Crash pretty much answered already but what I was trying to say is IMO, the DA polishers are more for like polishing a newer cars on the weekend, removing swirl marks due to drying the vehicle with improper towels after washing etc... maintenance work...
 
Ive had a HF rotary for probably 12 years that still works and I still use. I used to do everything by rotary. A detailing friend convinced me into trying out some of his da polishing equipment. Now the only time I use a rotary is for initial compounding on sanded clear. All the refining from there is done with a DA. Its easier and cleaner to me.
 
Well I gave it a shot but has said the 2000 scratches just won’t come out with my DA. Of course I have compound labeled rotary so not the right stuff.
I did however get a new rotary polishing tool.
Question is I tried two different compounds with the DA. One was more of a finishing kind. Do I just use soap and water to wash before I try the new rotary tool and cutting compound?
 
Tungsten said:
Well I gave it a shot but has said the 2000 scratches just won’t come out with my DA. Of course I have compound labeled rotary so not the right stuff.
I did however get a new rotary polishing tool.
Question is I tried two different compounds with the DA. One was more of a finishing kind. Do I just use soap and water to wash before I try the new rotary tool and cutting compound?
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710 wax and grease remover works well.
 
So fired up the rotary. Was cautious so ran it on 2 to spread some goo around. I can see how this can do some damage.
Just been going slowly on speed 3 back and forth a little. Really looks nice so far.

Question how much do I need to keep adding to the wool pad? Is there a point where it’s full? See pic. I’ve added so far twice 4 lines in a cross thanks.
IMG_5770.jpeg
 
Usually applying once per section you are working is adequate. At least that is what I do. Chemical guys pad cleaner works well on wool too. I clean mine at the end of the day and spin them dry.

Don
 
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