Window for SPI base

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deto326

Is there a window for shooting clear on top of the SPI dark red? I know that everyone says to let the base sit overnight then spray the clear but I was wondering if you could wait longer so that I could mask off the hood for lettering and strips. I may could get it layout and have time to shoot it in the sane day but I am concerned about the base lifting if not cured good or would it be better to shoot a coat of clear then mask and layout template? I think it was Carolina Customs said he laid out strips on the base but didn't know about the template. Also can anyone tell me if you have to sand the base do you have to put more base on before clear or can you clear over the sanded base?

Thanks Dave
 
I have not tried to mask over the SPI base coats, I have done it with fine line and 3M green tape before using DBC with no problems once the first color is dry enough to do so. The reason I don't want to tell you to do it that way with the template is, some of them use a really cheap adhesive and tend to be a pain to get it all off. I'd hate for you to get everything looking nice and then pull paint off unmasking it, or have to use W&G remover to get the adhesive off. I would think the safest route for you to take with the template being the "unkown" would be to shoot the first color, then 2 coats of clear, 600 everything, then use the template to mask off the second color. After you remove the template, you could clear everything again to bury the stripes, and if there were to be any problems with the adhesive, W&G remover would not affect the dried clear on the first color. I am sure others that are more familiar with the SPI base coats can offer better advice, but that would seem to be the safest way to do it. Also, if you clear the first color, then spray your stripes, if there are any problems with paint creeping under the edge of the masking, you can sand it off without worry of hurting the base underneath. My appologies if I caused any confusion with my earlier posts.

Kelly
 
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the spi bases i have used which is the black, white and bright red can be taped on BUT they need to sit....especially the white. while other polyester type bases like dbc, diamont, sikkens, etc all can be taped on in a matter of 15-20 min the spi bases are soft and take a very long time to harden up. this makes them prone to leaving tape marks behind. i really cant use the spi bases at all here in my shop unless its a solid, one color job. if i shot 3 coats of white down i would have to wait 3-4 days before it was hard enough to tape on. the black is much less of an issue for some reason. the stuff covers extremely well, its durable, reasonably priced but its definately a different animal than most bases you will be used to. the stuff works great but i cant recommend it for graphics, stripes, etc.
 
Thanks for the information Jim, I try to help when I can, but also try avoid giving anyone bad information just because something worked for me.

Kelly
 
carolinacustoms;38076 said:
I have not tried to mask over the SPI base coats, I have done it with fine line and 3M green tape before using DBC with no problems once the first color is dry enough to do so. The reason I don't want to tell you to do it that way with the template is, some of them use a really cheap adhesive and tend to be a pain to get it all off. I'd hate for you to get everything looking nice and then pull paint off unmasking it, or have to use W&G remover to get the adhesive off. I would think the safest route for you to take with the template being the "unkown" would be to shoot the first color, then 2 coats of clear, 600 everything, then use the template to mask off the second color. After you remove the template, you could clear everything again to bury the stripes, and if there were to be any problems with the adhesive, W&G remover would not affect the dried clear on the first color. I am sure others that are more familiar with the SPI base coats can offer better advice, but that would seem to be the safest way to do it. Also, if you clear the first color, then spray your stripes, if there are any problems with paint creeping under the edge of the masking, you can sand it off without worry of hurting the base underneath. My appologies if I caused any confusion with my earlier posts.

Kelly
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No apologies necessary Kelly I totally respect your opinion. Was not trying to over ride you at all I was just wondering if anyone else had use this type of template before with out lifting the paint. What you say makes perfect sense and is what I will do. I actually got the template last Friday and checked the adhesive on it and it looks to be about the same as masking tape but like you say I think I will clear and then mask just to be safe since I don't know what I am doing any way. But no Kelly please don't take it the wrong way that's why I ask you and others for your opinions and respect them , if anyone as did striping one tine they have done one more than I have.

Thanks again Kelly and keep the replies coming on my dumb questions.
Dave
 
Definitely no offense taken, I don't often post or reply becuase I know there are many others on here that are far more experienced than I am and can offer better advice or answers. Hopefully someone else will chime in and give their opinons and advice as well. Good luck with it how ever you decide to make it happen.

Kelly
 
well as far as the template is concerned....im not sure what you have there. is it a vinyl stencil you bought for some stripes? i have never in my life used one of the bought kits and had it be any good. even the "top rated" ones. they are not cut from masking vinyl. they are made with some type of semi permanent adhesive. most of the time it doesnt feel too tacky but after you shoot base on it and the solvent gets to it it will leave all the adhesive behind. not to mention that they are usually cut all squiggly. you are better off using it just to measure from then lay it out in tape.
 
In my tape/stripe areas I have been laying down a coat of activated intercoat and letting it set overnight, then if I really screw the pooch I can sand it off before digging too far into base.

Jimc and Carolina would know far more than I would tho, I happened to try it once and it worked for me so.....
 
hmm shot in the dar really. if it were me and i was unsure, i would lay it out in tape, cut the 351 from the stencil kit and just use that part of it. if the glue is left behind then you have very little to deal with and just some mineral spirits will remove it.
 
thanks guys for all the good input and Jim I had thought of doing that you helped me to make my mind up . I'll cut the numbers
out and mask the rest.

Thanks again everyone
Dave
 
Hey Kelly just realized you are not that far up the road from me I'll just drag it up there and let you do it for me. LOL
Dave
 
Haha, If that's what you want to do, I'd be glad to take care of it for you. You are welcome to PM me if you are serious. There are a few really top notch shops in this general area, there is a member here (Jeremy I think) in upstate SC somewhere that does some really nice work. I wish a few members were closer so I could go be a grunt in their shops occasionally and learn some things, there really are some talented people posting here.

Kelly
 
I have read through many threads look for an answer but have not found it. I know and understand hat most people let the base sit over night then apply the clear but how long could you let it sit before running into an adhesion problem? I have plenty of time to wait and would like to let the base sit as long as I can to let all the solvent out. Is letting the base sit in the sun a good Idea as long as I let the temperature cool down before applying the clear?

Thanks Dave
 
I'd avoid the sun, just let it breathe overnight and you'll be fine. Use the slowest (hottest temp) reducer you can get away with-it will flash off slower but will purge more solvent than a fast reducer in the same amount of time.
 
Bob Hollinshead;38151 said:
I'd avoid the sun, just let it breathe overnight and you'll be fine. Use the slowest (hottest temp) reducer you can get away with-it will flash off slower but will purge more solvent than a fast reducer in the same amount of time.
Click to expand...

Thanks Bob
 
Finally got graphics on the hood done. Enclosing a picture, turned out well I think the picture doesn't show the shine that it really has though. Thanks to everyone
for all the help
Dave

Hood and Tail light panel painted 005.jpg

Hood and Tail light panel painted 007.jpg

Hood and Tail light panel painted 008.jpg

Hood and Tail light panel painted 010.jpg

Hood and Tail light panel painted 011.jpg

Hood and Tail light panel painted 012.jpg
 
Looks good Dave I bet it'll have stupid depth after your cut and buff. Very nice work.
 
bomccorkle;38513 said:
Looks good Dave I bet it'll have stupid depth after your cut and buff. Very nice work.
Click to expand...
c.
Thanks Bo, it does look good but it was really a challenge for a first timer, wasted a lot of product and made a lot of stupid mistakes
but also learned a lot too so it was defiantly worth it.

By the way I have never cut and buffed so what is your procedure for doing it. What product brand, sand paper grit etc. I assume you have to wet sand with maybe
2000 or 3000 grit. Also can it be done anytime or is there a window you have to do it with in.
Thanks Dave
 
how many coats of clear? and are you planning to cut and buff for no paint lines?
 
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