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reallylongnickname

reallylongnickname

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The only thing I know about this pic is that 100% sure, SPI clear was used.

Epoxy resin is normally used in river-bed table. I'm not making such a table, but I have a slab of walnut wood that I wish to make an outside table with for in a gazebo. Wondering if I could get away with spraying SPI clear and it be durable to withstand bottles, abuse etc. similar scenerio to that you'd find in a bar.
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Pretty sure you need to use epoxy because typically there are lots of voids that need to be filled, and generally a large film thickness is needed to level the thing. Maybe SPI could be used as a last stage if UV resistance is desired, but begin with epoxy imo unless the slab is super smooth.
 
We have two high-end Chriscraft restorers, and both only use Universal.
Plus, we sell to several different wood manufacturers companies, some can't mention. It is done every day.

We also sell some furniture makers, but these are very high-end and rarer than the lower end that sticks to sparvar or Minwax types of stains and lacquers.
$7,000 for an end table.
$50,000 for a kitchen cabinet was ten or so feet long.
 
Universal Clear . 2 coats of unreduced epoxy then sanded back to see grain . 3 coats of clear then sanded with 400 grit till flat - repeated until 12 coats total they sanded with 1200/1500 and buffed . The epoxy did not fill all the voids but most . Each session of clearing and sanding filled the rest - this is oak wood by the way
 

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yep done all the time. using epoxy first really depends on the wood species. very open grain woods like oak or mahogany you will for sure want to pour epoxy over it to fill the grain, sand, then proceed with universal. you can do all universal but over time its going to shrink and sink into the grain and you will lose the glass finish. walnut however, the grain is much tighter and you should be able to do that with all uv clear unless you have voids and defects that need filling first.
 
Here's a chess board I made and cleared with Universal clear.
It took 4 spray sessions sanding it flat in between each one to
get it level. It was a test, but I think it is much easier to achieve with a
made for wood finish like Conversion Varnish which is what I usually use
on all my wood cabinets.
 

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I just thought of something; I know I've told a few people over the years, and it was about ten years ago, give or take.
A great restoration shop that I knew well was restoring an old truck and had new oak for the bed; Victor put on three coats of universal.
The customer loved it and asked for more.
He did three more, And the customer wanted more.
Long story short customer was happy after 27 coats of clear, and I never asked what the customer paid for the cost of clearing.

Every three coats were sanded with 1500 wet for the next secession.
 
Barry said:
Every three coats were sanded with 1500 wet for the next secession.
Click to expand...
Leveling the clear on a wood like oak (an open grin wood) would take
a lot of coats to fill and level, a lot.
I could never get it flat using fine grits like that.
I use 320 or 400, it's easier and quicker to sand with and
levels the finish much better.
The clear has no problem filling the scratches.
It does take a lot of time and labor but it looks so good,
when people see it they always say wow!
 
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