1968 Plymouth GTX

MJM said:
Learn something new every day. I find it interesting that the clear doesn't need a chemical or mechanical bond to adhere too base coat that has sat for days, weeks or months.
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with basecoat being a 1k product, the solvents from the clear still bite in.
 
123pugsy said:
I see the quarters with base already. I was under the impression metallics had to spray the whole car at the same time (assembled) for a consistent look. Any truth to this?
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no truth......I panel paint cars all the time.

Can you screw it up?? sure, but if you pay attention to what you are doing you will be fine.
 
orangejuiced86 said:
If its only a couple of small nibs, take some 1000 grit and solvent w/g remover and sand them out, then just rebase the areas.

When doing overalls, I will typically lay out 2 coats of base and then I used either a sanding sponge like these and go over the entire car and rebase with 2 more coats, might seem like overkill, but with bright silvers its worked out well for me.


View attachment 25497


or I also like the tolecut sheets:

View attachment 25498
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That's what I ended up doing. Using 1000 grit and wet sanding the little buggers off.
Thanks.
 
orangejuiced86 said:
no truth......I panel paint cars all the time.

Can you screw it up?? sure, but if you pay attention to what you are doing you will be fine.
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Well now, this makes my color choices easier. There's no way I can paint the whole car at one time.
I was thinking I could only go with solids. Of course I would cut all my cans of base together and then back to the gallon cans before starting.
Thanks.
 
123pugsy said:
I see the quarters with base already. I was under the impression metallics had to spray the whole car at the same time (assembled) for a consistent look. Any truth to this?
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In the old days the metal flakes needed to be oriented consistently. From what I have read the newer metal flakes are designed differently to eliminate that problem.
 
orangejuiced86 said:
I personally still always try to hang the panels in the position they will be on the car, but I have seen people lay doors down and it looks to match. I just don't have the walnuts to try that, lol.
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I try to do the same. Though I have done it both ways and had no issues, it always gives me a little more confidence if I have the doors standing when I spray them.

The key is to make sure you do everything the same. Same sealer, same mix ratio, same spray gun, same settings, same number of coats and same technique.
 
Sprayed three coats of Euro Clear today:
Third Coat of Euro Clear.JPG

Third Coat of Euro Clear 1.JPG

Third Coat of Euro Clear 2.JPG

Third Coat of Euro Clear 3.JPG


I am debating whether to shoot another coat. Mainly because the roof doesn't seem to have the same depth of shine the quarters do.
 
What was the plan, cut and buff the three coats? If yes would the roof finish different? It looks good from here but you are seeing something.
 
metalman said:
What was the plan, cut and buff the three coats? If yes would the roof finish different? It looks good from here but you are seeing something.
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Yes, cut and buff will be necessary.
Here's my signature waterfall run. Not sure what happened but I did trip over the hose once so maybe?
Signature Waterfall.JPG

Also, it's almost as though I see some tiger stripes on the roof but only at a certain angle.
Here's a close up but all I can see is clouds.
Close up on Roof.JPG
 
Decided to cut and buff the side of a quarter panel today, just to see how things will look.
Wet sanded with 1000 with a hard block, then 1500 and 2000.

This is the first round of buffing with Meguiars M-100 and a twisted wool pad. I plan to buff again with Chemical Guys and then polish with Menzerna 3800 Super Finish.

Again the two spots on the lower left of the picture are from my camera.
Left Quarter 2000 grit, M-100, Reflection.JPG


Left Quarter 2000 grit, M-100, Flash.JPG
 
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