JimKueneman
Mopar Nut
let us know. I have looked at that stuff a couple times.
1968 Plymouth GTX
- Thread starter '68 Coronet R/T
- Start date
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Ordered the #1 option vinyl and materials to restore the dash pad.
While waiting I took apart the heater box, media blasted the metal and painted it.
The parts there are not going to be seen are painted gloss black, whereas the front panel is flat black.
I have a complete seal kit for the heater box but the fresh air vent needs a new seal, seen below and I am having trouble finding one.
While waiting I took apart the heater box, media blasted the metal and painted it.
The parts there are not going to be seen are painted gloss black, whereas the front panel is flat black.
I have a complete seal kit for the heater box but the fresh air vent needs a new seal, seen below and I am having trouble finding one.
JimKueneman
Mopar Nut
Did you call Jim at DMT?
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Sent them an email with picture.
JimKueneman
Mopar Nut
I have not had luck with emails. The message input on the website he has always responded to but not emails.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Okay, thanks.
On the For B-Bodies only site, I was told that nobody makes these seals. Hope the guy is wrong about that.
RosharonRooster
Promoted Users
I don't know anything about Mopar, but I know attention to detail when I see it! Awesome work
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
He got back to me and said that nobody makes them. He used to buy a used cowl vent units just to get that flapper to sell.
Wish I had know that earlier.
Did find a used one on ebay but the guy wants a good price for it.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Started on the dash pad repair.
Stripped the loose vinyl and foam. From there I used expandable foam to fill the cracks and voids. Then skimmed with body filler and sanded smooth.
I have enough vinyl for three tries. If it turns out like I am hoping, then I may try restoring this other old pad from my signature car and selling it.
Which as you can see is in even worse shape.
Stripped the loose vinyl and foam. From there I used expandable foam to fill the cracks and voids. Then skimmed with body filler and sanded smooth.
I have enough vinyl for three tries. If it turns out like I am hoping, then I may try restoring this other old pad from my signature car and selling it.
Which as you can see is in even worse shape.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Got it done today. Turned out pretty decent for a first timer.
Just needs to be painted blue.
Just needs to be painted blue.
i have a hard to find dash i need to repair what kind of foam did you use? and was that vinyl or what that you body worked over?
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Started out with a razor knife and began removing all the hardened vinyl around the cracked areas. Also cut out the dried and damaged foam.
Then the entire dash was sanded with a DA and 80 grit. This removed event more dried up vinyl. Used a small piece of sandpaper by hand in the more difficult places. Note: Now is also a good time to remove any rust that might be on the metal.
Blew everything off with compressed air and vacuumed up the mess.
I used some expandable foam in a spray can because I had it laying around. If I do the other one I will try the two part liquid type like this: https://www.amazon.com/Expanding-Po...GS5/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=expanding+foam&sr=8-8
Once the foam was cured, I cut it level with the dash pad using a hand held drywall saw. Then the entire dash was sanded again with a DA and 80 grit to level the foam.
Next was the 3M Marson Platinum. Started just trying to level some of the holes to the existing vinyl, however the dash pad was deformed in a lot of places so I began skimming the entire surface. Much like you would a body panel.
The difficult part was applying the vinyl. My dash is straight along the back edge but tapered on the front from the center outward. This caused extreme buckling of the vinyl. This is where the 4 Way Stretch Vinyl comes to the rescue.
I applied contact cement to the bottom of the pad and began applying the vinyl from the center outward. This was the easy part because that back edge is straight and the vinyl just laid over the front.
Turned the pad over and applied contact cement. Began pulling the vinyl tight along the front edge and folding it over. This produce what I thought would be impossible to remove bucking of the vinyl. However, I used the heat gun to soften the vinyl a bit and found I could work it down with my hands. Slow and time consuming for sure.
Once the vinyl was installed I used a razor knife to trim the excess along the edges and ends, then applied contact cement and folded the vinyl under the edges.
Again, this was a first for me, so I am sure there are more experienced guys out there to get information from.
Then the entire dash was sanded with a DA and 80 grit. This removed event more dried up vinyl. Used a small piece of sandpaper by hand in the more difficult places. Note: Now is also a good time to remove any rust that might be on the metal.
Blew everything off with compressed air and vacuumed up the mess.
I used some expandable foam in a spray can because I had it laying around. If I do the other one I will try the two part liquid type like this: https://www.amazon.com/Expanding-Po...GS5/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=expanding+foam&sr=8-8
Once the foam was cured, I cut it level with the dash pad using a hand held drywall saw. Then the entire dash was sanded again with a DA and 80 grit to level the foam.
Next was the 3M Marson Platinum. Started just trying to level some of the holes to the existing vinyl, however the dash pad was deformed in a lot of places so I began skimming the entire surface. Much like you would a body panel.
The difficult part was applying the vinyl. My dash is straight along the back edge but tapered on the front from the center outward. This caused extreme buckling of the vinyl. This is where the 4 Way Stretch Vinyl comes to the rescue.
I applied contact cement to the bottom of the pad and began applying the vinyl from the center outward. This was the easy part because that back edge is straight and the vinyl just laid over the front.
Turned the pad over and applied contact cement. Began pulling the vinyl tight along the front edge and folding it over. This produce what I thought would be impossible to remove bucking of the vinyl. However, I used the heat gun to soften the vinyl a bit and found I could work it down with my hands. Slow and time consuming for sure.
Once the vinyl was installed I used a razor knife to trim the excess along the edges and ends, then applied contact cement and folded the vinyl under the edges.
Again, this was a first for me, so I am sure there are more experienced guys out there to get information from.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
While waiting for parts to finish the heater box, I decided to paint the trunk lid and quarter panel extensions.
It's hot here so I am hoping the sealer coat cures out quickly:
It's hot here so I am hoping the sealer coat cures out quickly:
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Here it is yesterday afternoon with 3 coats of base and 3 coats of Euro Clear.
Reflection of lights makes it look like there are issues, so I waited till sundown and took a close up:
Today I am working on the other side. Found a couple of spots I didn't like so got them fixed and will spray epoxy sealer in a few minutes.
Did notice my white epoxy has a 2/18/19 date on the can.
Reflection of lights makes it look like there are issues, so I waited till sundown and took a close up:
Today I am working on the other side. Found a couple of spots I didn't like so got them fixed and will spray epoxy sealer in a few minutes.
Did notice my white epoxy has a 2/18/19 date on the can.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Trunk Lid:
Here's a close up of what I believe was caused by "starvation" from using DeKups.
Slight discoloration similar to tiger stripes. However I was very careful to maintain proper distance, overlap and keeping the gun perpendicular to the surface.
It must have been from the last coat because I had calculated mixing just enough to get three coats of base on it. Thus a diminished paint flow.
At least that's the way I figure it.
Here's a close up of what I believe was caused by "starvation" from using DeKups.
Slight discoloration similar to tiger stripes. However I was very careful to maintain proper distance, overlap and keeping the gun perpendicular to the surface.
It must have been from the last coat because I had calculated mixing just enough to get three coats of base on it. Thus a diminished paint flow.
At least that's the way I figure it.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Installed a new trunk lid seal and then the lid.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
I discovered something about the temperature control doors for the heater boxes today.
There is the inward facing swing arm like this:
Then there is the outward facing swing arm, like this:
Mine is like the second one but when I got it the swing arm was broken off.
After searching far and wide I found a guy that had a temperature control door and bought it. It was when I went to install it that I discovered the arm was in the wrong position.
I looked at the rod and it was only welded to the door in three places, so I thought grind the welds, rotate the rod and reweld it in the correct position.
This is when the other difference between the doors became obvious. The arm that points outward is 5/8" longer than the inward pointing arm.
So I took the old broken rod and put a bend in it (Yes, I know it's not the exact same radius) and then cut to the correct length and weld them together.
Beveled the edges and MIG welded them together. The slot is for a retaining clip.
Positioned it and welded the door on:
Dressed the welds and painted it.
Applied the foam and installed it:
I need to replace those rivets as they aren't tight enough. Just aluminum rivets that I put a washer on the inside hoping they would secure it but definitely not good enough. The gasket/foam package I used suggested split tail rivets or something like that. Never heard of them before.
There is the inward facing swing arm like this:
Then there is the outward facing swing arm, like this:
Mine is like the second one but when I got it the swing arm was broken off.
After searching far and wide I found a guy that had a temperature control door and bought it. It was when I went to install it that I discovered the arm was in the wrong position.
I looked at the rod and it was only welded to the door in three places, so I thought grind the welds, rotate the rod and reweld it in the correct position.
This is when the other difference between the doors became obvious. The arm that points outward is 5/8" longer than the inward pointing arm.
So I took the old broken rod and put a bend in it (Yes, I know it's not the exact same radius) and then cut to the correct length and weld them together.
Beveled the edges and MIG welded them together. The slot is for a retaining clip.
Positioned it and welded the door on:
Dressed the welds and painted it.
Applied the foam and installed it:
I need to replace those rivets as they aren't tight enough. Just aluminum rivets that I put a washer on the inside hoping they would secure it but definitely not good enough. The gasket/foam package I used suggested split tail rivets or something like that. Never heard of them before.