1968 Plymouth GTX

I discovered something about the temperature control doors for the heater boxes today.

There is the inward facing swing arm like this:
View attachment 26627

Then there is the outward facing swing arm, like this:
View attachment 26628

Mine is like the second one but when I got it the swing arm was broken off.
After searching far and wide I found a guy that had a temperature control door and bought it. It was when I went to install it that I discovered the arm was in the wrong position.

I looked at the rod and it was only welded to the door in three places, so I thought grind the welds, rotate the rod and reweld it in the correct position.

This is when the other difference between the doors became obvious. The arm that points outward is 5/8" longer than the inward pointing arm.
So I took the old broken rod and put a bend in it (Yes, I know it's not the exact same radius) and then cut to the correct length and weld them together.
View attachment 26629

Beveled the edges and MIG welded them together. The slot is for a retaining clip.
View attachment 26630

Positioned it and welded the door on:
View attachment 26631

Dressed the welds and painted it.
View attachment 26632

Applied the foam and installed it:
View attachment 26633

I need to replace those rivets as they aren't tight enough. Just aluminum rivets that I put a washer on the inside hoping they would secure it but definitely not good enough. The gasket/foam package I used suggested split tail rivets or something like that. Never heard of them before.

Well that snowballed!
 
@'68 Coronet R/T , I don't know if you have one, but an Auveco catalog has been indispensable for our shop. Places like McMaster-Carr can get you most of the way there, but Auveco has a lot of automotive stuff.


Typically our rivets of the type you describe are made by Auveco. Knock-offs have proven inferior.
Thanks Crash, I saved this link and will check it out.
 
Got the heater box done, rivets worked perfect.
Installed the wiper motor and linkages:
Wiper Motor.JPG


Waiting for some under dash insulation to arrive, I started to assemble the dash:
Gauges and Radio Installed.JPG
 
The dash has a woodgrain trim on it's face.
This was the condition of the main piece:
Woodgrain trim badly faded.JPG


The stuff is super expensive IF you can find it. So I decided to experiment in fixing it.
The back surface was worn in spots and this caused the color loss. After putting a couple of different colored objects behind it, I found the near perfect match was a piece of treated lumber.
Turned out I had some stain on hand that matched and I painted the area around the GTX logo with it as a test run:
Woodgrain Restore Progress.JPG


It took a couple of coats but came out pretty decent. I also had a 2009 gallon of SPI red which I used a few drops to try and touch up the GTX logo where it was worn. Tried getting some silver into the tiny lines around the letters but that was quite difficult to do.
Here's the end result:
Woodgrain Restored.JPG


Not perfect my any means but way better than it was.
Still searching for the radio surround section as that was missing altogether.
 
Not following this part, are you saying the trim is transparent?
Not following this part, are you saying the trim is transparent?
It's basically molded plastic.
The left end piece was broken in two:
Broken End Piece.JPG


Under the masking paper is another end piece (the color didn't match) so I used it to hold the proper form while gluing the original back together.
Woodgrain Left and Right.JPG


I plan to shoot some clear coat over the pieces for some added depth and protection.
 
Under dash insulation came today, so I got it and the heater box installed.
Insulation and heater box.JPG


Started working on the wiring harness and boy what a mess.
Dash harness needs work.JPG


Discovered the switch is broken on my Map Light.
Map Light Broken.JPG


Doesn't look like I'll be able to repair it and I doubt anyone sells just the switch.
I see these in poor condition on eBay starting at $60 and a new one is $155. o_O
 
I got a coupled of those lamps laying around collecting dust, PM me your address and I send ya one 68.
 
Does someone reproduce them now?

Year One (M&H) has made Chrysler harnesses for a long time. They are the sole distributor but license them to other places apparently (Classic Industries, Van's, etc). They are not cheap, about $1000-$1200 for a complete set (Dash is around $500-$700)
 
Year One (M&H) has made Chrysler harnesses for a long time. They are the sole distributor but license them to other places apparently (Classic Industries, Van's, etc). They are not cheap, about $1000-$1200 for a complete set (Dash is around $500-$700)
That's why I am repairing them myself. Volt/Ohm meter, soldering gun, heat shrink tubing, wire stripping tools, electrical contact cleaner, etc. and patience, lots of patience. ;)

Reading those wiring diagrams that run on for three pages take a bit of practice as well.
 
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