1969 Chevy C10
- Thread starter '68 Coronet R/T
- Start date
DanMcG
Promoted Users
lol, yeah, that's why I have a 4"x 14" hole in the back side of said tailgate. only it's on the bottom and not on top where I need it.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
HF being the key indicator as to what went wrong. I learned that by experience over a decade ago and haven't found any reason to get burned again.Thanks, I was looking for ideas other then the stud welder, and the shape kind of reminded me of the smaller dents on the top edge of my tailgate that I tried my HF stud welder on and it won't move them, the studs just pull off after one or two taps. I'm thinking the welder is now junk but I refuse to buy a second one. (it did work ok for the most part). I'm guessing the tight radius and heavy gauge metal has the dent locked right in. Good thing I got all winter to figure it out.
The trick to using a stud welder for smaller dents is in the slide puller. You have to exert slight pressure by pulling and then lightly tap the slide hammer against the handle. It doesn't take a lot to move the metal. You also need to evaluate the dent and the best means to pull it. Very similar to working the metal with hammer and dolly, you don't just go for the deep end and start hammering away.
Notice the picture below. The areas where the metal is dented and buckled do not have studs on them. The idea is to relieve the stress around the dent so it takes less effort to remove it.
The truth is, I am still a hack compared to guys who know how to work metal. You should see Chevman's '57 Nomad!!!
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'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Block sanding the poly primer.
Applied guide coat and then block sanded with 150 grit on a 12" sanding block for the straight sections and round Durablock for the curves.
For the most part it went well, you can see black epoxy primer showing in some spots and a couple of very small areas where metal starting to show.
Cleaned it up and shot 3 coats of 2k build primer. Apparently I hosed it on pretty good cause I got runs in it (a first for me with primer).
My old EVO4018 primer gun with a 1.8 tip gave up the ghost, so I bought an AirGunza with a 2.0 tip. I am still not used to spraying with it yet will be my excuse. LOL
Applied guide coat and then block sanded with 150 grit on a 12" sanding block for the straight sections and round Durablock for the curves.
For the most part it went well, you can see black epoxy primer showing in some spots and a couple of very small areas where metal starting to show.
Cleaned it up and shot 3 coats of 2k build primer. Apparently I hosed it on pretty good cause I got runs in it (a first for me with primer).
My old EVO4018 primer gun with a 1.8 tip gave up the ghost, so I bought an AirGunza with a 2.0 tip. I am still not used to spraying with it yet will be my excuse. LOL
JimKueneman
Mopar Nut
The were likely punched rather than drilled.
DanMcG
Promoted Users
Hmmm, not with my little Roper Whitney
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
1 final coat of regular 2k build primer.
Right side still flashing:
Going to wet sand this with 600 grit and hopefully begin spraying color tomorrow.
Right side still flashing:
Going to wet sand this with 600 grit and hopefully begin spraying color tomorrow.
Dean Jenkins
Promoted Users
Looking nice and straight. Gonna be awesome.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Shot the base this morning, clear will go on this afternoon. Not perfect but I keep reminding myself it's a driver.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
3 coats of Euro.
Dean Jenkins
Promoted Users
Trying to see the imperfections you mentioned. Can't see em
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Putting it back together:
Had to order the trim for the tail lights today.
Reverse lights are not working so another issue to run down.
Had to order the trim for the tail lights today.
Reverse lights are not working so another issue to run down.
JimKueneman
Mopar Nut
Because aftermarket switches are crap. I threw them away and found NOS Mopar switches for my cars. They all have backup lights!
Leonard1
Professional Amateur
If I remember right, that's a 4 speed with a granny low, NP265, I think. If so, the switch is on the side of the trans, close to the bellhousing, and the wiring harness plugs straight into it.