20 to 24 year old compressor.

[Barry]

This has been a nasty cold winter in Georgia
Worst I can remember, so something I learned that might help you.
This compressor, from day one, has had only moble1, and the viscosity was what I had extra in the garage as ordinary stock is 15w50,
5w30, 5w40/0w40 euro grade.
Well, this cold, I have replaced three belts in a short time due to hard starts.
To solve the issue, I went to 0w40 and could tell the following day at 28 degrees, it did not labor.
Im not trying to promote synthetic oil, but just hoping my experience with viscosity will help you if needed.

 

[Treeslayer]

This has been a nasty cold winter in Georgia
Worst I can remember, so something I learned that might help you.
This compressor, from day one, has had only moble1, and the viscosity was what I had extra in the garage as ordinary stock is 15w50,
5w30, 5w40/0w40 euro grade.
Well, this cold, I have replaced three belts in a short time due to hard starts.
To solve the issue, I went to 0w40 and could tell the following day at 28 degrees, it did not labor.
Im not trying to promote synthetic oil, but just hoping my experience with viscosity will help you if needed.

mine starts really hard in the winter, its got straight 30 in it. i never considered using any thing else in winter, perhaps i should.

 

[Barry]

mine starts really hard in the winter, its got straight 30 in it. i never considered using any thing else in winter, perhaps i should.

Just a note and not trying to start an oil forum, BUT something I learned when at an oil company, a single-weight oil would start losing grade in a car at around 800 miles.
Plus, it builds up carbon in the top ring groove.
Yes, with my compressor, a synthetic oil straight weight was sent.
Example the 15w40 I use in the cummings means- it flows like a 15 when cold and like a 40 at running temp but is not a 40grade so to speak, but an average weight.
15w means winter, not weight.

 

[MJM]

I understand your reason (s) for setting up your compressor outside, however, the tempature swings over the years has to take a toll on metal and weld joints.

Seeing as your compressor is 20 + years old, I wouldn't stand anywhere near it while it contains compressed air.

If someone thinks heat and cold cycles are nonsense, take a glass and fill it with Ice, then pour some hot water in it. Get back to me after you've cleaned up the mess.

 

[clubairth]

I use to use other oil but now I just use synthetic compressor oil. About $40 a gallon comes in several ISO grades and ISO 100 = 30 SAE.
TRIAX Kompressor MV 100 Full Synthetic ISO 100 (SAE 30)
Compressor Oil

I have a large North Star unit and lucky that it takes about 16oz of oil so the gallon gives me 2 oil changes.
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[elwood]

Is there any difference in synthetic oil brands or is it just different labels put on same oil for these compressors that use it. Big difference in price tho.

 

[DanMcG]

I've got a Kobalt 60 gal 2 stage that I changed the oil in last August. One of the choices in the manual was Moble1 10w30 so thats what I bought, figuring it had to be better then the Kobalt labeled synthetic blends for the other choices. after the oil change it was noticeably louder, to the point it was uncomfortable to be in the same room when it was running. I put up with that for a while then drained it and went with the Kobalt labeled ISO 100 stuff and it was like day and night quieter.
I was wondering if anyone ever experienced that before, or can explain why?

 

[Whitesnake]

Hmm, I’ve always wondered about engine oil. I always have cases of 5/30, 0/40, and 15/50 on the shelf as well. I’m also due for an oil change it’s been a while. I have a IR as well. I agree with the above comment lol. I would love to have my compressor outside but I can’t imagine what it would look like as we have below zero up to 100 degrees and humid. And everything in between. Not to mention blizzards, etc. I think I’ll stick with my indoor closet I suppose.

 

[D.A.T.]

I've got a Kobalt 60 gal 2 stage that I changed the oil in last August. One of the choices in the manual was Moble1 10w30 so thats what I bought, figuring it had to be better then the Kobalt labeled synthetic blends for the other choices. after the oil change it was noticeably louder, to the point it was uncomfortable to be in the same room when it was running. I put up with that for a while then drained it and went with the Kobalt labeled ISO 100 stuff and it was like day and night quieter.
I was wondering if anyone ever experienced that before, or can explain why?

Likely the choice of additives in the oil.

 

[D.A.T.]

API-SAE motor oil ratings are one thing for internal combustion engines--lubricating oil for air compressor pumps is another matter. Google " A Hispanic Car Wash Supervisor Died When an Air Tank Exploded in a Car Wash Equipment Room" for a report about choices of oil and potential consequences. A lot of folks use pad heaters on their compressor pumps in uncommon cold weather conditions and having the compressor outside and not in some kind of enclosed shed that could be heated. Most air tanks are -20F for a minimum design metal temperature and 650F on the high temperature at the maximum allowable working temperature. I would encourage people to look at their tag on the tank from the certifying company that made it. You should see either a "U" type symbol in a cloverleaf or the ASME lettering in cloverleaf with a "U" underneath it.

 

[Barry]

Is there any difference in synthetic oil brands or is it just different labels put on same oil for these compressors that use it. Big difference in price tho.

No way, just a label change. There is a big difference between stock crude and number 2 synthetic blend and number 3; the good stuff is 100% synthetic.
Remember years ago, there was a tv ad about draining oil and driving the car?
True only with a full synthic, as it creates a positive charge and sticks to the metal.

 

[Lizer]

I’ve always ran 5W30 synthetic in mine up here in MI. It runs year around. Not much 10W oil I really use in anything actually.

My biggest problem used to be not the oil getting too thick but water freezing up in my non booth line. Ever since I added the cooler to my compressor that hasn’t been an issue, and we had a 2 week streak of subzero weather this winter where even my heated livestock waterers froze up. Aside from that two weeks though it’s been uncharacteristically warm. Like spring warm.

 

[clubairth]

The biggest problem running motor oil is it's a detergent oil. Compressors do NOT produce combustion products. So dedicated compressor oils do not contain detergents.

Funny you mentioned the compressor noise as mine got noticeably quieter after I changed the oil. My compressor also has a magnetic drain plug and I think it still had the factory oil as it had a surprising amount of "hair" on the magnet. So I was very happy to change it after I saw what it looked like. Even the glass site glass got cleaner and I can see the oil much better after some hours of running.
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[Barry]

I understand your reason (s) for setting up your compressor outside, however, the tempature swings over the years have to take a toll on metal and weld joints.

Seeing as your compressor is 20 + years old, I wouldn't stand anywhere near it while it contains compressed air.

If someone thinks heat and cold cycles are nonsense, take a glass and fill it with Ice, then pour some hot water in it. Get back to me after you've cleaned up the mess.

You got me paranoid now!
Two pictures; one seems to be testing
The other is my on-off valve, and in the past, I have turned it on and off, now it is staying on, and I will be 24 feet away in the garage when I start it.
A month ago, I did take all fittings off, cleaned, and pipe dope because I was bored, I guess.
any ideas??

 

[alex1970]

When I bought my IR ss5l5 compressor, I carried to the basement around 2005. It was very heavy and difficult to do, my wife of 2 years thought I was crazy, but I am glad i did. I change the oil regularly. I have a 3 way switch (110V) - one in basement near compressor, one in garage, the 3-way switch pulls in a relay to pass 220V to the compressor. Best way I would think to do it at the time. My "auto pressure switch" stopped working properly last year so I have to turn it on off by the switchs , its been a pain, so I need to fix that.

 

[Dean Jenkins]

My "auto pressure switch" stopped working properly last year so I have to turn it on off by the switchs , its been a pain, so I need to fix that.

In my experience IR has been easy to order replacement parts from.
I would definitely get that switch replaced.
I like your 3-way switch setup, but if you power it up from the garage and then get distracted the failing pressure switch could have very bad consequences.

 

[Dean Jenkins]

You got me paranoid now!
Two pictures; one seems to be testing
The other is my on-off valve, and in the past, I have turned it on and off, now it is staying on, and I will be 24 feet away in the garage when I start it.
A month ago, I did take all fittings off, cleaned, and pipe dope because I was bored, I guess.
any ideas??

Sounds like you have a remote switch of some kind, so I personally wouldn't worry about it.
I too would just leave that valve open.
I learned the hard not to leave power on to a compressor, so now I power it off when I wrap up for the day.

 

[D.A.T.]

You got me paranoid now!
Two pictures; one seems to be testing
The other is my on-off valve, and in the past, I have turned it on and off, now it is staying on, and I will be 24 feet away in the garage when I start it.
A month ago, I did take all fittings off, cleaned, and pipe dope because I was bored, I guess.
any ideas??

Your air tank was designed and manufactured by Manchester Tank with low carbon steels with the ability of those steels to be stressed at -20F to 600F in operation at 200 psi. It had a safety factor of 400% when made. It was hydrotested when new to 300psi as well to verify its integrity. Provided your air tank has not had appreciable internal corrosion the likelihood of thinning of the shell and the bottom domed "head" is low. The thickness of your 24" diameter tank shell is about 3/16"--the heads slightly thinner. Your tag states "SH .184 and HD .149". Those are the minimum thicknesses below which the tank shell and heads is no longer legally usable when used commercially. Since no insurance company writes casualty policies for them in a residentially zoned property the liability is wholly the property owners in the event of rupture or explosion. They gave the user little corrosion allowance for service life. These material thicknesses in those carbon steels used don't really factor in much with brittle fracture when temps are what you are experiencing in the 20's F range. Fatigue problems with these materials on an air compressor with cycling are the fillet welds cracking where the top plate welds to the head and same for the leg or skirt attachment on the bottom. If you can see paint chipping off in these areas that's generally a sign to investigate some more. Fatigue with respect to the air tank is based on 10 million alternating pressure cycles evenly applied--something unlikely to be experienced unless your compressor is not well attached to a foundation or there is some kind of severe vibration.

My guess is your hard starts are electrical not pump oil related --did you use 6 gauge wire from the panel to the outside locked out box to isolate the compressor from the panel?.......Capacitors on 5 to 10 hp single phase motors used for the starting windings in the motor draw huge currents in relation to the running current even at ambient temperatures. Drop the temps low and often that is an issue.

Many users at the end of a day--lock out the compressor electrically at the isolating box--drain any hard plumbed the airlines-- if any-- to depressurize them and then open the bottom drain on the tank and leave it open. Tanks with skirts rather than Indvidual legs usually get set-up with an auto drain since it is hard to access the bottom head drain once the unit is bolted down to the concrete pad.

 

[D.A.T.]

In my experience IR has been easy to order replacement parts from.
I would definitely get that switch replaced.
I like your 3-way switch setup, but if you power it up from the garage and then get distracted the failing pressure switch could have very bad consequences.

The tank pressure relief valve is set to activate and flow out everything that the compressor pump can produce and not let the tank pressure rise above the MAWP stamped on the tag. Most of the little 1/4 NPT ones at 200psi can flow better than 50CFM--check it's stamping with a magnifying glass. Yank its key ring with a CHAIN ATTACHED AND STANDING WELL AWAY and find out by watching the pressure gauge drop. It is a hell of a noise and energy release since that valve does not have its own discharge piping away from the tank. That's the tank over pressure part. Depending on what your single phase 240V motor and its tag is for power factor and temperature rise small gauge wiring and long runs in 10 and 8 gauge may be problem without a fused lock-out box.

 

[elwood]

Thanks for the information.