20 to 24 year old compressor.

[Barry]

Your air tank was designed and manufactured by Manchester Tank with low carbon steels with the ability of those steels to be stressed at -20F to 600F in operation at 200 psi. It had a safety factor of 400% when made. It was hydrotested when new to 300psi as well to verify its integrity. Provided your air tank has not had appreciable internal corrosion the likelihood of thinning of the shell and the bottom domed "head" is low. The thickness of your 24" diameter tank shell is about 3/16"--the heads slightly thinner. Your tag states "SH .184 and HD .149". Those are the minimum thicknesses below which the tank shell and heads is no longer legally usable when used commercially. Since no insurance company writes casualty policies for them in a residentially zoned property the liability is wholly the property owners in the event of rupture or explosion. They gave the user little corrosion allowance for service life. These material thicknesses in those carbon steels used don't really factor in much with brittle fracture when temps are what you are experiencing in the 20's F range. Fatigue problems with these materials on an air compressor with cycling are the fillet welds cracking where the top plate welds to the head and same for the leg or skirt attachment on the bottom. If you can see paint chipping off in these areas that's generally a sign to investigate some more. Fatigue with respect to the air tank is based on 10 million alternating pressure cycles evenly applied--something unlikely to be experienced unless your compressor is not well attached to a foundation or there is some kind of severe vibration.

My guess is your hard starts are electrical not pump oil related --did you use 6 gauge wire from the panel to the outside locked out box to isolate the compressor from the panel?.......Capacitors on 5 to 10 hp single phase motors used for the starting windings in the motor draw huge currents in relation to the running current even at ambient temperatures. Drop the temps low and often that is an issue.

Many users at the end of a day--lock out the compressor electrically at the isolating box--drain any hard plumbed the airlines-- if any-- to depressurize them and then open the bottom drain on the tank and leave it open. Tanks with skirts rather than Indvidual legs usually get set-up with an auto drain since it is hard to access the bottom head drain once the unit is bolted down to the concrete pad.

Thanks, D.A.T I feel better now that I looked at the welds, and the paint is good at the welds.
Im starting the compressor daily since I changed the oil and run it from 6 to 7 am to 2pm daily. The OW40 has stopped all all laboring and belt noise when cold. I think I had put 15w50 in last time because I did the change the same day changed the tbird oil.

 

[AAE]

I'd rather use what the manufacturer recommends. Maybe it is more expensive but the piece of mind is well worth it.

 

[Dean Jenkins]

I'd rather use what the manufacturer recommends. Maybe it is more expensive but the piece of mind is well worth it.

Yep. I swallowed hard then bought the IR oil.
$38 for a liter
Ingersoll Rand 38436721 OEM All Season Select Synthetic Lubricant, 1L, Bottle https://a.co/d/fIh3puX

 

[Chris_Hamilton]

I'm having a hard time believing that the tank would ever explode at 150psi. Could it? I guess but mild steel doesn't get harder over time nor does it get brittle even with some heat/cool cycles. All these tanks are built with mild low carbon steel. Mild steel will deform long before it breaks/cracks/shatters in a situation like this. Perhaps if the compressor was situated
/operated in extreme low temps and something made impact with the compressor at those low temps but Georgia weather isnt going to have those extremes. Hot temps are only going to help IMO. Especially with gradual temperature changes that natural settings provide.

I have never heard of a compressor tank exploding. Ever. PVC piping yes but a compressor tank with a properly functioning blowoff valve never.

Replacing/testing the blow off valve regularly is a good idea. I just wouldn't be concerned you had a ticking time bomb on your hands

JMO.

I would have to imagine that these types of tanks are tested at 2-3x the normal operating pressure. I think if it was possible or did happen simply due to age, we would have all heard a story or two of one doing that. Again just my opinion judging empirically.

 

[lotussuperseven]

I'm having a hard time believing that the tank would ever explode at 150psi. Could it? I guess but mild steel doesn't get harder over time nor does it get brittle even with some heat/cool cycles. All these tanks are built with mild low carbon steel. Mild steel will deform long before it breaks/cracks/shatters in a situation like this. Perhaps if the compressor was situated
/operated in extreme low temps and something made impact with the compressor at those low temps but Georgia weather isnt going to have those extremes. Hot temps are only going to help IMO. Especially with gradual temperature changes that natural settings provide.

I have never heard of a compressor tank exploding. Ever. PVC piping yes but a compressor tank with a properly functioning blowoff valve never.

Replacing/testing the blow off valve regularly is a good idea. I just wouldn't be concerned you had a ticking time bomb on your hands

JMO.

I would have to imagine that these types of tanks are tested at 2-3x the normal operating pressure. I think if it was possible or did happen simply due to age, we would have all heard a story or two of one doing that. Again just my opinion judging empirically.

Air rank ruptures are usually caused by internal corrosion caused by internal corrosion from water if its not an over pressure rupture. External ultrasound readings is the normal method to determine internal pits.
Good tank water removal systems greatly reduces or eliminates tank internal corrosion.

 

[elwood]

In 2014 I helped a man on his last two cars before retirement who had been doing paint body work for over 50 years. One day we were talking about compressors and he said that he had to get a new bottom welded into his due to rust eating a hole in it. Been working good for years he said. Good man , he had done it all, customs , wrecks, restorations, etc. Im glad he asked me to help him and I appreciate to this day all I learned from him.

 

[Goat22]

I use to use other oil but now I just use synthetic compressor oil. About $40 a gallon comes in several ISO grades and ISO 100 = 30 SAE.
TRIAX Kompressor MV 100 Full Synthetic ISO 100 (SAE 30)
Compressor Oil

I have a large North Star unit and lucky that it takes about 16oz of oil so the gallon gives me 2 oil changes.
.
.
.

Totally agree. I switched to Triax Komoressor MV 100 Full Synthetic and I’m never going back. It was the only oil I could find that met or exceeded all the specs that the manufacturer called out. It’s quiet and also seems to stay clear/clean forever.

 

[Barry]

I'd rather use what the manufacturer recommends. Maybe it is more expensive but the piece of mind is well worth it.

To be clear, ALWAYS use the grade a car manufacturer recommends as the engineer's figure grade of oil by bearing clearances.
Example Toyota has an engine where the recomend 0w16; you would not dare put a 5w30 in it, or the engine will be history shortly for lack of lubrication.

As far as compressor, if they assure me at 20 plus years old, it will still be working perfect I will follow their advice, same with my 15 year old John Deere; other than that I will self insure.
Just my 2 cents.

 

[jcclark]

Keep in mind synthetic oils will get past the compressor rings much easier than
conventional oils, so if you have an old compressor, watch for that.

 

[Barry]

Keep in mind synthetic oils will get past the compressor rings much easier than
conventional oils, so if you have an old compressor, watch for that.

This is, like I said, not an oil forum, so im done.

Jc, this is totally false except for one exception.

And this exception is very common.
If you have 50,000 or higher miles and have been using the wrong grade or a crap oil and then go to synthetic, yes, you will start burning oil in 100 miles.
Because you have carbon build up in the top ring grove behind the ring.
The good oil in 100 miles will create a 1/4-inch gap, and it is burning oil.
The solution is to drive usually, as it takes about
1000 to 1500 miles to clean and stop burning, so you change the oil.

 

[FloodcoatBilly]

I cannot recommend enough Amsoil compressor oil! I run a paint gun, and a cnc plasmacutter. This taxes the compressor greatly.

Absolutely DO NOT run automotive oil in your compressor. Especially if your compressor and its intake is outside. The formulations required of cars and that of the compressor differ greatly. Another issue is the multigrade oils falling out of grade. They will get thicker rather than thinner, as the polymers that create the multigrade visc wear out.

Im not affiliated with amsoil other than as a customer. But i cannot say enough about how much it helped my compressor. Ive went from constant attention and maint to literally forgetting about my compressor for years at a time.

Another thing to consider is slow starts from the belts becoming stiffer in the cold rather than the oil. However, since its multigrade in an incorrect application, it is also likely failing to be in grade, as the polymers wear out.

 

[metlmunchr]

Obviously, anyone is free to use whatever oil they like in their compressor, but there is a difference in motor oil versus compressor oil and all major compressor manufacturers will recommend compressor oil and will also tell you to only use motor oil as a last resort.

Detergents in motor oil keep stuff in suspension so it can be filtered out as it passes thru the oil filter. Compressor oil is non detergent to let any foreign stuff settle out to the bottom of the oil rather than staying in suspension. The detergents in motor oil will also cause carbon deposits to form around the compressor's valves.

Motor oil will emulsify any water that gets in it. Example of that is the "milk shake" appearance of oil when you get a coolant leak into the crankcase of an engine. Any air that bypasses the piston rings will be carrying moisture into the compressor crankcase. Compressor oil is designed to prevent emulsification of this moisture into the oil. The water will separate out and sink to the bottom as it will be heavier than the oil.

 

[Jim C]

Totally agree. I switched to Triax Komoressor MV 100 Full Synthetic and I’m never going back. It was the only oil I could find that met or exceeded all the specs that the manufacturer called out. It’s quiet and also seems to stay clear/clean forever.

i use this same stuff and seems to work great. been using it about 6 years now and its really no more expensive than regular motor oil.

 

[elwood]

I'm glad it was discussed because without an air compressor that is functioning properly we will have all kinds of problems. I went thru 3 used air compressors in 6 months because they failed from one problem or another. Bought new one after that. So thank you Barry for starting this as well as those who contributed their knowledge and experiences. I have learned a bunch.

 

[Mustang408]

I use Mobil Rarus 427 Compressor Oil. It says its 30 Wt, and it was what was recommended for my pump.
I've never had a problem and It can get cold in the Seattle area.

1 Gal Bottle, ISO 100, SAE 30, Air Compressor Oil 300(degrees), 104.6 Viscosity (cSt) at 40(degrees)C, 11.6 Viscosity (cSt) at 100(degrees)C Lubricant - SPS Industrial Inc.

 

[Whitesnake]

Oils threads are always the best!!! Hahaha. But on a real note, I’ve great things about amsoil and redline compressor oil. Some people claim quieter and cooler operation. I can’t confirm. But I’m due for an oil change so maybe I’ll try one. If it is quieter and cooler, even better!

 

[MJM]

I guess it's safe, then again........

 

[Treeslayer]

oil threads, the bane of every chainsaw discussion group. meh.
there is difference in oils and there are some things that shouldnt run any oil. detroit diesel two stokes for example should not run multi grade oil. those additives will cause deposits under the rings and the rings wear very quickly. why does this happen? i dont know but it does, i learned the hard way. straight 40 low ash for those. compressor oil historically has been straight 30 non detergent. will multi grade hurt a compressor? i dont know.

any one want to argue over two stroke mix? lol