K
kortensi
So I work for a really good company (Rackspace Hosting) and one of the perks is that after being there 7 years, I get to take a two month paid sabbatical. In February and March of 2014 I will be working on the car with the goal of completing it in 6 weeks. This gives me two weeks extra in case I need more time.
*I've got some updates in-line from a friend. Is my understanding of the order of application for the SPI products correct? What am I missing?
I already have 2 Gal of Southern Polyurethanes Epoxy Primer. The rest I still need to purchase.
Current progress:
http://kens71.com/
My rough time line is as follows:
Week 1
- final prep of body, panel/hood/door/headlight/bumper final alignment (It's pretty close to dead on already)
- Prep garage for paint, hang tarps/plastic sheeting, build air filter frames for garage door (plastic sheets are cheap, you'll need to change them prior to the color and clear. you'll need a fan for air movement. You didn't mention lighting? You'll need ceiling lights and wall lights. You also need plenty of room to paint around the car without walking into things)
- Get 2nd air compressor and connect to run in parallel, install inline air filter (you'll need at least two filters especially if you are using oilless compressors, they run hot and create moisture). 1 stone style filter for debris and 1 large desiccant style for moisture. You also should put a disposable filter in your hose leading to the gun. Granger is a good source and they have desiccant style filters with media that you can reuse by baking it in an oven. Install a gate valve so you can bypass the filters for general air use. No use shortening the life of the filters)
- Raise the car up on jack stands (you'll need to move it out to wash the garage prior to color)
- Tape up car in prep for spraying (nothing fancy, you'll need to redo several times as primer and dust build up. Blow it off very well first)
Week 2
- Wipe down the car with Southern Polyurethanes Waterborne Wax & Grease Remover (blow off the entire car very well first)
- Spray 2 coats of Southern Polyurethanes Epoxy Primer (make sure fiberglass work is done first)
- Apply body-filler if necessary.
- (block)Sand
- Spray two or three coats of Southern Polyurethanes 2K Regular Build Primer. (I would stick with the epoxy throughout the blocking process. SPI epoxy block sands very well and you have an advantage to still apply filler if needed. This also eliminates the need for an additional paint product. You will exceed those 2 or 3 coats, most of it will end up on the floor. I actually use gray and black primer alternately instead of guide coats)
- (block, block, block)Sand, sand, sand, sand, sand
Pull the car out and totally clean the garage. If stuff doesn't need to be in there, put it somewhere else. Everything in the garage is a source for collecting dust and dirt that can end up in your paint. An empty garage is best. Hang new plastic. While the car is outside, blow it off completely. Double check every part of the body for any defects and check all the gaps. Pull it in and re-mask it.
- Week 3
Make a plan of how the main body and all the loose parts will get hung and painted. Also plan the time of day to paint when neighbors aren't doing yard work with blowers etc. It's also best to tell them that you are going to paint and there will be nasty fumes
- Spray 1 coat of Southern Polyurethanes Epoxy Primer as a sealer
- Wet sand sealer ( I would use SPI 2K Urethane Sealer in white instead of epoxy. This will lay down nicer than epoxy especially for a beginner)
- Spray 2 to 3 coats of base coat (type and color TBD) (depends on the quality of the paint you choose, PPG Deltron can get away with 2 coats generally, but a cheaper grade paint will take more coats)
- Wet sand base if necessary (lay it down smooth, don't plan on sanding it, especially if you go with a metallic)
- 2 to 3 coats of Southern Polyurethanes Universal Clear (plan on 3 coats)
- Wet sand clear (you'll need to wait a couple days depending on the temperature during the nights)
- Buff (one person sanding and clearing will take about 4 days depending on how smooth you laid the clear on and the level of detail you'll be happy with)
Week 4 - Interior
- Vacuum out interior
- Sound/heat barrier and carpet
- Dash/ gauges/ center console install
- New stereo and speakers
- GPS Tracking/ Alarm
- Door handles and hardware
- Power windows
- Power locks
Week 5
- Seats and seat-belts
- install weather-stripping
- Windshield
- Side mirrors
- Bumpers
- Side molding
- Emblems
- Door alignment
- Marker lamps/turn signals install
Week 6
- Rims and tires
- Alignment
- License and registration and inspection
- Insurance
- Drive the shi* out of her
Thanks for reading.
KO
*I've got some updates in-line from a friend. Is my understanding of the order of application for the SPI products correct? What am I missing?
I already have 2 Gal of Southern Polyurethanes Epoxy Primer. The rest I still need to purchase.
Current progress:
http://kens71.com/
My rough time line is as follows:
Week 1
- final prep of body, panel/hood/door/headlight/bumper final alignment (It's pretty close to dead on already)
- Prep garage for paint, hang tarps/plastic sheeting, build air filter frames for garage door (plastic sheets are cheap, you'll need to change them prior to the color and clear. you'll need a fan for air movement. You didn't mention lighting? You'll need ceiling lights and wall lights. You also need plenty of room to paint around the car without walking into things)
- Get 2nd air compressor and connect to run in parallel, install inline air filter (you'll need at least two filters especially if you are using oilless compressors, they run hot and create moisture). 1 stone style filter for debris and 1 large desiccant style for moisture. You also should put a disposable filter in your hose leading to the gun. Granger is a good source and they have desiccant style filters with media that you can reuse by baking it in an oven. Install a gate valve so you can bypass the filters for general air use. No use shortening the life of the filters)
- Raise the car up on jack stands (you'll need to move it out to wash the garage prior to color)
- Tape up car in prep for spraying (nothing fancy, you'll need to redo several times as primer and dust build up. Blow it off very well first)
Week 2
- Wipe down the car with Southern Polyurethanes Waterborne Wax & Grease Remover (blow off the entire car very well first)
- Spray 2 coats of Southern Polyurethanes Epoxy Primer (make sure fiberglass work is done first)
- Apply body-filler if necessary.
- (block)Sand
- Spray two or three coats of Southern Polyurethanes 2K Regular Build Primer. (I would stick with the epoxy throughout the blocking process. SPI epoxy block sands very well and you have an advantage to still apply filler if needed. This also eliminates the need for an additional paint product. You will exceed those 2 or 3 coats, most of it will end up on the floor. I actually use gray and black primer alternately instead of guide coats)
- (block, block, block)Sand, sand, sand, sand, sand
Pull the car out and totally clean the garage. If stuff doesn't need to be in there, put it somewhere else. Everything in the garage is a source for collecting dust and dirt that can end up in your paint. An empty garage is best. Hang new plastic. While the car is outside, blow it off completely. Double check every part of the body for any defects and check all the gaps. Pull it in and re-mask it.
- Week 3
Make a plan of how the main body and all the loose parts will get hung and painted. Also plan the time of day to paint when neighbors aren't doing yard work with blowers etc. It's also best to tell them that you are going to paint and there will be nasty fumes
- Spray 1 coat of Southern Polyurethanes Epoxy Primer as a sealer
- Wet sand sealer ( I would use SPI 2K Urethane Sealer in white instead of epoxy. This will lay down nicer than epoxy especially for a beginner)
- Spray 2 to 3 coats of base coat (type and color TBD) (depends on the quality of the paint you choose, PPG Deltron can get away with 2 coats generally, but a cheaper grade paint will take more coats)
- Wet sand base if necessary (lay it down smooth, don't plan on sanding it, especially if you go with a metallic)
- 2 to 3 coats of Southern Polyurethanes Universal Clear (plan on 3 coats)
- Wet sand clear (you'll need to wait a couple days depending on the temperature during the nights)
- Buff (one person sanding and clearing will take about 4 days depending on how smooth you laid the clear on and the level of detail you'll be happy with)
Week 4 - Interior
- Vacuum out interior
- Sound/heat barrier and carpet
- Dash/ gauges/ center console install
- New stereo and speakers
- GPS Tracking/ Alarm
- Door handles and hardware
- Power windows
- Power locks
Week 5
- Seats and seat-belts
- install weather-stripping
- Windshield
- Side mirrors
- Bumpers
- Side molding
- Emblems
- Door alignment
- Marker lamps/turn signals install
Week 6
- Rims and tires
- Alignment
- License and registration and inspection
- Insurance
- Drive the shi* out of her
Thanks for reading.
KO
i've found i dont move as fast or bounce as well as i once did. good luck with it ........ and we love pictures .