69 Mustang Mach 1 Resto

Machspeed

Member
I've been posting on this forum since 2013, all in an effort to gain knowledge in the restoration of my Mustang! Too much time has gone by and I've got to get this car finished! My goal is to have it in paint this year! I thought posting it up here would help me to maintain focus and better push through the project with some accountability and encouragement from my friends here! I'm OCD or something and won't move on until I feel confident I can do what I plan to do, which means asking lots of questions and spending hundreds of hours on YouTube watching videos on auto resto, much of which leads me down rabbit holes and even more questions. Sometimes you just have to dive in, and I need to do that!

A little history on this. I bought this car from the original owner back in 1977. Car had 51K miles on it and I paid $1100 for it. That's a lot of money when you're sacking groceries for a whole $1.25/hour. It was my first car and it's pretty special to me.....a base package 69 Mach 1 with a 351W 2V and FMX trans. Back in those days, the rich kids in my school were driving new Z/28's and Trans AM Firebirds. Even back then, I wouldn't swap them even. And, that little 2V 351W would shut them smog motor Z's and TA's down! I rather enjoyed that too!

The car sat in storage from around 1986 to 2015.....6 years in the AF, marriage, education, a business, raising two kids.....LIFE! In 2015 I pulled her out of storage and brought her home to begin the restoration.
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I built a rotisserie and body cart for it and began stripping it down. Replaced both front inner fender aprons and the radiator support bracket, as they were damaged in an accident years ago and the repair shop I hired did a poor job in the repair. I welded in some subframe connectors and reinforced the shock towers, as they did on the big block cars. Then took the car in for media blasting and finally a couple coats of SPI epoxy. Son helped me out in the undercoating. Man that sucked but love the picture!
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For a southern Texas car and me knowing where it had been, I was surprised to find rust. Media blasting revealed much. Had to patch rear lower qtrs, both sides, right behind the rear wheels. Also had to fab and patch areas in both doors.

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In regards to rust, there were a few other areas that I had to address as well.

As of late, I've been addressing some small dings and dents and subsequently honing my hammer and dolly skills with much input from my friends here. I'm so grateful for the time and knowledge given to me here and I can't thank you all enough for that. As I move forward in the paint process, I have many more questions but will leave them for later. I look forward to further input and sharing this project with you all to fruition.
 
BTW, that black 86 F150 pictured above was also a project for which I gained knowledge here. When I posted on here originally, I made a bad cut and Robert (MP&C) walked me through that repair and in the end, it turned out nicely! Thank you Robert! Both rear qtr areas just above the wheel were rusted out and required patch panel work. I also shot my first coat of paint on this truck in the repair. Practice for the Mustang!

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that little 2V 351W would shut them smog motor Z's and TA's down! I rather enjoyed that too!
I know you're trying to start an argument, but its not going to work.:p
For a southern Texas car and me knowing where it had been, I was surprised to find rust. Media blasting revealed much.
I working on a mustang now with the same problem, fair weather car with rust. Its because of plugged up drain holes.
 
Looks like you have a great Mustang to start with. 1969 Mustang is the best looking Mustang!!!! I've been racing mine since 1971. We have four fastbacks in the shop right now.
I totally agree! My brother has a 70 Boss 302 that is gorgeous, but the 69 body is just a better looking car. He won't say it, but I know he believes it. I've seen a lot of your work, Rusty. You do great work.
I working on a mustang now with the same problem, fair weather car with rust. Its because of plugged up drain holes.

Exactly right! When I was young and stupid, I recall finding water in the trunk area where I now know it drains. Never thought that there might be a drain in there. Regardless of the presence of a drainage area, it is very poorly designed. By the way, chevman, nice write up on the door alignment pins! And that leads me to one of my questions which I'll post below!!!
 
I'm soon to pull my car off the rotisserie and put it on the body cart for panel alignment purposes. As I've scratch the primer many times pulling fenders and doors, I've thought to pin the panels. However, not sure what gap to pin the panels at. I've read that 3/16" is great but if I pin them for 3/16" that gap may be too close after paint. Can I get some advice on this?
 
I have always thought that the car will help you make that decission. I like to get all the panels adjusted before deciding what gap is best, just don't think you should do more than you have to. On that Mustang, the gaps are all natural, I didn't change anything with any of them, and they range from .145 to .175. A lot of guys seem to go 3/16" (.1875), but that would be the most for me, and I would wait as long as you can before doing the pins, you may find yourself making small changes in your settings and that can have you drilling more holes. It takes time to get it all adjusted just right, and sometimes you want to start cutting when all you really have to do is in the adjustment, these older cars just have so many ways of making adjustments.
 
I'm soon to pull my car off the rotisserie and put it on the body cart for panel alignment purposes. As I've scratch the primer many times pulling fenders and doors, I've thought to pin the panels. However, not sure what gap to pin the panels at. I've read that 3/16" is great but if I pin them for 3/16" that gap may be too close after paint. Can I get some advice on this?
I'm at that stage as well. My thread about it here:

I spend all Saturday trying to move the DS door 1/2 a mm forward and the fender forward a whole mm, came out ok, but I had to redo my hinge pins. Well haven't redone them yet, I unpinned so I could move it forward. I have no idea how I'll get this back together without scratching it.

I may leave the PS alone. I think .145 looks a hair better than .1875.

In my tiny garage my 2021 Mustang is next to the old one, and it's gaps vary as much or more than the gaps on the 65 and they don't bother me, go figure.
 
I'm at that stage as well. My thread about it here:

I spend all Saturday trying to move the DS door 1/2 a mm forward and the fender forward a whole mm, came out ok, but I had to redo my hinge pins. Well haven't redone them yet, I unpinned so I could move it forward. I have no idea how I'll get this back together without scratching it.

I may leave the PS alone. I think .145 looks a hair better than .1875.

In my tiny garage my 2021 Mustang is next to the old one, and it's gaps vary as much or more than the gaps on the 65 and they don't bother me, go figure.
I totally get it! Striving for perfection is great but will drive one crazy!
 
Pulled the car off the rotisserie yesterday and put it on the body cart, as I wish to mockup fitment of all the panels. I must have been in better shape when I built and mounted it on those items, cause it kicked my butt. I built a battleship when I built these things.....heavy! Unfortunately, it's going to have to go back on the rotisserie when I slop gray the bottom.....wasn't even thinking about that yesterday. My worries about fitment of those panels got the better of me. I need to get organized.
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I have three obstacles that I need to get around now.

One, is an oil canning roof. I've posted this up in the metal working thread with much input. Since that initial posting, I've done everything to the roof except take a torch to it and it still cans slightly. My rookie butt is not putting a torch to that roof!

http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php?threads/oil-canning-roof.10174/page-3#post-125343

The shape is perfect. As such, I've decided to test my metal bending skills and make a brace for it. Our very own 123pugsy was the inspiration for this. The roof will also receive some sound deadener, which I've been told would, by itself, reduce the oil canning. I think that combo will fix my roof.

Number two is the rear deck lid.
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I cannot get a dolly back there, as this is two pieces of metal separated by about a qtr of an inch. The car has a rear spoiler which is going back on the car and would probably cover this area but my OCD just can't leave it alone. This is an OEM trunk lid and spoiler with all the proper brackets too. I'm thinking about cutting out part of the back side and somehow reinforcing it for remounting of the spoiler. Thoughts and input appreciated.

Number three is the roof again! The car has rear window louvers and like the rear spoiler, torque on the hinges have pulled that area up around the hinges. Can't get to the back side. I could easily hide this with the hinge gasket and hinges but again......arghh! I just can't half azz stuff.

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Judicious use of a stud gun would help in those area, imo. Typically the metal around the holes gets stretched outward and can be persuaded down with some light shrinking with the shrinking tip of the stud gun. Also studs can be placed in the depressed area where the spoiler dented the lid.
 
Moving forward but it's been a struggle. Every panel on this car has given my some form of grief. I guess that's just the nature of things. I have my doors, fenders and hood on and they are pretty well aligned. I'm relatively pleased with them. I'm thinking about going another way with the trunk lid, in purchasing a high quality re-pop. The metal on this re-pop is thicker and it is made to bolt down my rear spoiler. Reviews on it have been good in regards to fit. I fitted up the rear valance and it requires minimal work.

On the other hand, the front valance is giving me all kinds of crap. Spent many hours on it yesterday and got nowhere. This panel that I thought would be and easy task has been the worst! A lot of attachment points. Anyway, I have both a quality re-pop and the OEM unit. The OEM unit has some kind of de-galvanization process going on and had a dent in it, thus the purchase of the re-pop. The OEM unit fits up better but only marginally better. Strangely, the driver's side fits up okay but I just can't get the passenger side to fit up flush with the front fender. In my photos, everything is loosely attached.
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I hammered and dollied the dent out of the OEM gravel pan but am cautious about using it still. Thoughts? Interestingly, the re-pop is heavier than the OEM unit.

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Do you have any pics of that area before you tore it apart? It looks more like an issue with the diecast fender extension. They appear to be different in that area side to side. A profile gauge would make it easy to compare the two sides.

Don
 
Worst case scenario, you'll be cutting, stretching, shrinking, and welding to make those new repops fit. I know that's a hard pill to swallow but, it's the nature of the beast sometimes. I remember Dean Jenkins having to do just that on one or more repop panels he installed on his El Camino. I believe MP&C had to reshape body lines so they matched up on new body panels to match the existing panels. Lizers door panel patch needed to have the body line reworked so they matched.. I just look at repops as a panel that is at least 95% correct to the original that may require 5% rework to fit correctly.

Before I started cutting up the new panels, I would first try to manually, with brute force, bend the panel into the shape I need. Don't bend too hard, you'll crease the panel.

If you do go back to using the original piece, don't be concerned about using a skim coat to correct that rough area. It's done all the time.
 
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