Attempting deck lid stripes today

alex1970

alex1970

Promoted Users
Plan is to mask after letting black base cure for 3 hours. then spray 4 or so coats of SPI Dark Red. last time I only waited 90 minutes and tape and plastic masking "marred" the base.
DL 3 coats black base.jpg
, then un mask after about 90 minutes.
 
2 coats on. but I think I put on too heavy and tape is wrinkling. I might put on 3rd & final coat then unmask, then try to repair tonight.
DL3.jpg
DL Mask 2.jpg
 
To clarify, I think this job might have benefitted a coat of white before the red, or doing the stripes afterward, since coverage with black is effortless.
 
Ok I failed! LOL. Any thoughts on base the red first, then next day, put on 2 coats of intercoat clear. then (not sure on time here) denib with 800 if needed, mask out the red, then base in the black, then next day 5-6 coats of universal clear?

I am just ticked about how the decal and the tape leaves impressions in the base, I even bought the 3M 218. The 218 left a good line and did'nt bleed, but still left lines/ marred up the base. I used slow reducer, and maybe I should have sprayed light coats, and hope it would flow out.
DL 4.jpg
 
Couple of thoughts. Like Crash said it looks like you sprayed it heavy. You don't want or need to do that. Light-medium to at most medium coats. Give it 30 minutes of flash between coats.

What tape are you using besides the 218? Blue stuff looks like box store tape. You should be using refinish grade tape anywhere the tape is going to touch the base when masking. 3M yellow is affordable and works well for secondary taping. Very important to use good quality refinish grade tape. Don't skimp. Get a roll of 3/4" and 2".

I think you should spray the black last for reasons listed above. You won't have to spray excess coat to get coverage.

Make sure to minimize the time the masking is on the base. Mask it and spray it immediately after. Then 10-15 minutes after spraying remove the masking. You should be able to mask, spray and demask in 2-3 hours. Don't leave it on there any longer than necessary.

Intercoat normally isn't neccesary but you could use it to minimize these issues. Spray the red, follow up with intercoat then let it sit overnight. Tape up spray the black and get the tape off. Remember as quickly as you possibly can.
 
If you do choose to go black first then red. Spray the black, let it sit 12-24 hours then come back and mask it off. Again emphasize that you need to use good quality tape. Get rid of the blue stuff.
 
Thanks Chris- I really only used the blue tape to lock down the plastic onto the 218. and as an overlap/ extra barrier. Next week or so, I might wet sand it all down with 400, re-seal, then the next day try red base first let it sit 12H, quickly mask off the red and then quickly base in the black stripe, with 2 or 3 light/medium coats. And I will pick up some good tape, 3M yellow.
 
Those stripe kits are complete junk. The one I used for a Chevelle left residue when i pulled the tape. No bleed through like you have, just left over adhesive residue. I used regular 3M yellow automotive painters tape for other areas and had no issues with adhesive problems with those lines. Are you using blue household painters tape on a car?
 
Mustang408 said:
Those stripe kits are complete junk. The one I used for a Chevelle left residue when i pulled the tape. No bleed through like you have, just left over adhesive residue. I used regular 3M yellow automotive painters tape for other areas and had no issues with adhesive problems with those lines. Are you using blue household painters tape on a car?
Click to expand...
The blue tape was used as a secondary overlap to protect the other tape and to lock down the plastic better. I used the Resto parts or OPGI kit and as you can see the kit left adhesive or somehow affected the black. I plan to sand and re try but before that I might try to see if it can be cleaned off or clearing over it to see if it "goes away" How did you paint the stripes on that 71? How long did you wait before masking after base?
 
Here is how I would approach this (backyard hack disclaimer - but I DID get Chevelle style stripes done after several attempts.)
  1. Abandon all hope of "fixing" what is there. Ain't happening. Not a big deal, as @123pugsy says "it's just paint . . . sand it off and do it over"
  2. Sand ALL of that base coat off using a block, not a DA. I would use 320 grit. 320 scratches will fill just fine with sealer.
  3. Seal it with light grey or white epoxy. Can be reduced to cut down cure time, but 1:1 will be fine to shoot base the next day.
  4. Shoot 2-3 light to medium coats of red base, with 30 minute flash time between coats. Just enough for complete coverage. Let it sit for 2 hours at 70 degrees or above, or overnight if you like.
  5. Forget the stencil, just tape the stripes by hand. It is easier than it sounds. NOTE: I was intimidated by this and even hired an expert to come tape my stripes. After watching him and then screwing up the spraying, I re-did them myself and it was easier than I thought.
    1. Chevy changed the dimensions several times during the production runs and at different factories so there are no "right" dimensions." Make your life easy and go with 1/4" pinstripes and an easy number (11", 11 1/4", etc) for the big stripes. The inside of a 3M tape roll is the perfect diameter for the outer corner curve.
    2. The inside corner is the hardest part of this. Some very sharp scissors are your friend here.
  6. Before taping, very lightly scuff the red base, where it will be taped, with grey scotch pad to remove any nibs or peel, which can cause bleed under the tape.
  7. Clean very well with solvent W&G remover and let it dry thoroughly.
  8. Use high quality striping tape. I use 3M vinyl fine line but you have to be very careful not to stretch it as it gets thinner as it stretches. There may be better tape to use.
  9. After the tape is perfect (it will take at least 10 tries) then use something like a fresh filler spreader to go over the tape to press it down and make sure it is firmly and fully adhered.
  10. Mask off the rest of the panel with quality automotive refinishing tape and plastic.
  11. Wipe the area to be painted with solver W&G remover, let that dry and right before spraying, tack it off.
  12. Spray the black with 2-3 light to medium coats. You do not want it to "flow" but to just cover. The first coat may not cover fully and that is fine. Put on the minimum amount of paint to get solid coverage and color. Let each coat flast 30 minutes.
  13. After the last coat, as soon as the paint has flashed (not sticky to touch on the tape) carefully pull the tape and masking.
    1. Pull the tape at a 45 degree angle over the new paint, very carefully and slowly.
Hope that helps!
 
Dean thanks for the advice, really makes sense- I really appreciate. Not sure if it is residue from tape/ stencils or just affected the surface. I have been activating my base. It is interesting that where the plastic and blue tape covered the stencil the result was good, where the red hit the stencil directly is where the black was messed up or residue. Maybe I spray light coats and stencil and tape will be ok or not affect the base?!? I based and cleared the underside of DL so in a few days after it fully cures I will flip it over "practice taping" 11 or 15 times:oops:, then sand down with 320 and try again.



DL Mask 2_Close up.jpg
unmask1.png
 
get some good fbs orange fine line tape and put it in the fridge or freezer. it wont bleed through. when i did some chevelle stripes used that 3m blue fineline had issues with creep under that tape went to the fbs it works great. idk why the freezer trick was taught that seems to help the tape. also alot of guys will put down intercoat clear when doing stripes. so say lay your red base. intercoat it . tape out your stripes for black and spray away if you have a bleed through can fix it on top of the intercoat clear and not disturb you base color "red".
 
I rarely see anyone using intercoat on a simple two tone job like that. Takes extra time and really isn't necessary especially on a plain old solid color. I never do it.

Although yes it would help the OP to do this. But only to a point. Intercoat is not clear, just clear basecoat binder and even activated will have solvent issues like the OP experienced if it is sprayed on heavy like the OP did.


@zachm Interesting. I've never heard of that. What happens when the tape warms back up to room temperature in a few minutes? How is it supposed to help? In my experience the biggest issue guys have with fine line is not pressing it down enough to completely seal.sit against the surface. And not peeling it back over on itself when removing. 3M stuff works fine as long as you really press it down.
 
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