Attempting deck lid stripes today

I rarely see anyone using intercoat on a simple two tone job like that. Takes extra time and really isn't necessary especially on a plain old solid color. I never do it.

Although yes it would help the OP to do this. But only to a point. Intercoat is not clear, just clear basecoat binder and even activated will have solvent issues like the OP experienced if it is sprayed on heavy like the OP did.


@zachm Interesting. I've never heard of that. What happens when the tape warms back up to room temperature in a few minutes? How is it supposed to help? In my experience the biggest issue guys have with fine line is not pressing it down enough to completely seal.sit against the surface. And not peeling it back over on itself when removing. 3M stuff works fine as long as you really press it down.
something ive been told by a couple custom painters. im not sure but seemed to help around curves and stuff idk if it really makes a diffrene but i do it lol
 
something ive been told by a couple custom painters. im not sure but seemed to help around curves and stuff idk if it really makes a diffrene but i do it lol
In my VERY limited experience, using intercoat gives you a chance to fix a minor issue. A small chance at that, but a chance . . .
 
In my VERY limited experience, using intercoat gives you a chance to fix a minor issue. A small chance at that, but a chance . . .
In my experience, and I think @Jim C will back me up on this, it is really only useful to intercoat when you have to do some complex stuff. Artwork, airbrush, gold leaf, lace, specialized type stuff. Or if you will be several weeks or longer before clearing. IDK, I've just never seen the benefit of using it for stripes or two tone work.
 
This is 3M fineline and and it laser sharp. Needless to say if you’re having bleed thru issues with it it’s user related. Like Chris said, you need to get it pressed down really well.

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In my experience, and I think @Jim C will back me up on this, it is really only useful to intercoat when you have to do some complex stuff. Artwork, airbrush, gold leaf, lace, specialized type stuff. Or if you will be several weeks or longer before clearing. IDK, I've just never seen the benefit of using it for stripes or two tone work.
When I was painting the stripes on my Mustang back in 2015 I did the white SPI base directly over the blue base. There were a few spots on concave curves where the tape lifted and some white made it underneath. I had to sand the white off the blue base. I was told if I had used an interclear between them I’d be sanding the white off it instead and wouldn’t be as near an issue.
 
I bought "J-Tape" orange [60YDs $8?] & 3M Blue fine line [40YDs? $17]. Both seemed exactly the same as I practiced laying out the lines. I had a small dot of bleed thru where the tape overlaps in the corner. Overall I am really happy (the kind of happy where you go back into the garage and just stare at it multiple times a day). After clear and cut and buff it will interesting to see how it looks. I plan on 4 coats of universal, sand 800 wet, then another 3 coats of clear. Then 2 or 3 weeks later start cut and buff. When I do the hood next week. I think I will wait 10H before masking. For this deck lid I based, waited 4H, start mask at 3:45, finish mask at 515, Based black 3 light/med coats, unmasked at 6:15 and still had tape marks in the base. I really am amazed at how much work is involved in custom painting, thanks for all your help.


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