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Michael Steinert
I decided to make this a new thread I had previously added to existing thread about spray Epoxy, and I will not be spraying it. My apologies for not starting my own thread to begin with.
Ok, I'm new to painting and will be the first to admit this. I plan to do as much of the stripping to bare metal and epoxy work myself that I can. I don't want to try to spray the epoxy, I have to many issues with the space to spray even though a have a 40x50 foot shop it's full of toys I don't want to get overspray on.
Before purchasing the quart size Black SPI Epoxy and quart size SPI activator I spoke to Barry about brushing it on. He stated this was done quite a bit in the recess areas around windshields and areas like this. I plan to strip my car one panel at a time and then apply the epoxy with 2 coats. I sort of borrowed a plan from here for doing this and modified it a bit but wanted some input:
(The car was stripped down to bare metal previously with Aircraft stripper and washed down with water to kill the acids, then hand dried and then rattle canned with a sandable primer only, just to move the car to another state. Mostly stripped just on the Body on the roof rear quarters and back of the car and around the windshield areas. The fenders shown on my profile picture are from another car and hood was not stripped at all. I reverse engineered this car with different year front end parts, and modified the rear with 70-72 Camaro tail lights among other modifications. It a 1975 car with 1971-1972 front end and modification up front too.
So here is my sort of borrowed plan for you to scrutinize:
Sand blast or hand sand with 100 grit to remove the old rattle can primer to expose the bare metal.
Clean with 700 or 710 wax & grease remover.
DA 80 grit on the panel or surface I want to paint.
Clean with 700 or 710 cleaner and wipe multiple times, Use two rags one to wipe on and one to wipe off.
Set paint area heat to achieve at least 65 degrees for the vehicle panel, and also heat SPI epoxy and activator in warm area at least 65 degrees.
Do a final wipe down with 700/710 and allow vehicle to dry for 30 minutes prior to application of epoxy on bare metal.
Mix epoxy 1:1 using a paint stick to stir epoxy first add activator and let sit for 30 minutes prior to brushing on epoxy.
Put Epoxy on thick if brushing it, not thin like spraying.
Apply epoxy with two wet coats with at least 30 minutes of flash in between each coat. (Brushing on or spraying make any difference for the flash times Barry?).
Keep vehicle at 65 to 75 degrees for 8 hours.
Wait 48 hours for the epoxy to cure then apply Rage filler directly over epoxy with no sanding.
I will apply my filler work within the 7 day window. After 7 days I will scuff the epoxy and sand the filler with 80-180 (not sure what’s right after 7 days) before applying more filler.
Once filler work is done I plan to brush two more coats of epoxy and sand as needed before worrying about any sandable 2k primer.
How’s this for a plan brushing it on Barry?
Hope it's okay
Mike Steinert
Michael Steinert, 10 minutes ago Edit Delete Report
Ok, I'm new to painting and will be the first to admit this. I plan to do as much of the stripping to bare metal and epoxy work myself that I can. I don't want to try to spray the epoxy, I have to many issues with the space to spray even though a have a 40x50 foot shop it's full of toys I don't want to get overspray on.
Before purchasing the quart size Black SPI Epoxy and quart size SPI activator I spoke to Barry about brushing it on. He stated this was done quite a bit in the recess areas around windshields and areas like this. I plan to strip my car one panel at a time and then apply the epoxy with 2 coats. I sort of borrowed a plan from here for doing this and modified it a bit but wanted some input:
(The car was stripped down to bare metal previously with Aircraft stripper and washed down with water to kill the acids, then hand dried and then rattle canned with a sandable primer only, just to move the car to another state. Mostly stripped just on the Body on the roof rear quarters and back of the car and around the windshield areas. The fenders shown on my profile picture are from another car and hood was not stripped at all. I reverse engineered this car with different year front end parts, and modified the rear with 70-72 Camaro tail lights among other modifications. It a 1975 car with 1971-1972 front end and modification up front too.
So here is my sort of borrowed plan for you to scrutinize:
Sand blast or hand sand with 100 grit to remove the old rattle can primer to expose the bare metal.
Clean with 700 or 710 wax & grease remover.
DA 80 grit on the panel or surface I want to paint.
Clean with 700 or 710 cleaner and wipe multiple times, Use two rags one to wipe on and one to wipe off.
Set paint area heat to achieve at least 65 degrees for the vehicle panel, and also heat SPI epoxy and activator in warm area at least 65 degrees.
Do a final wipe down with 700/710 and allow vehicle to dry for 30 minutes prior to application of epoxy on bare metal.
Mix epoxy 1:1 using a paint stick to stir epoxy first add activator and let sit for 30 minutes prior to brushing on epoxy.
Put Epoxy on thick if brushing it, not thin like spraying.
Apply epoxy with two wet coats with at least 30 minutes of flash in between each coat. (Brushing on or spraying make any difference for the flash times Barry?).
Keep vehicle at 65 to 75 degrees for 8 hours.
Wait 48 hours for the epoxy to cure then apply Rage filler directly over epoxy with no sanding.
I will apply my filler work within the 7 day window. After 7 days I will scuff the epoxy and sand the filler with 80-180 (not sure what’s right after 7 days) before applying more filler.
Once filler work is done I plan to brush two more coats of epoxy and sand as needed before worrying about any sandable 2k primer.
How’s this for a plan brushing it on Barry?
Hope it's okay
Mike Steinert
Michael Steinert, 10 minutes ago Edit Delete Report
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