Can I do this with epoxy sealer?

UAmember said:
Check the tech sheet. I am not familiar with Claussen, I would like to try it after being on here. The tech sheet for Optex Super build says to use urethane reducer only.
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For your edification with regards to Clausen Rust Defender,
 

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Shoot one coat of unreduced epoxy, wait a day or 2(depending on temp) then shoot your poly. Don't over complicate things with added chemicals or steps.

You car appears to be very straight and you did a great job with the metal and body work. Don't hammer on the poly and just create yourself a ton of unnecessary work. Try to shoot it smooth, give it a good couple of days to kick and then proceed.
 
MJM said:
I agree with you. I was hesitant about using polyester primer due to cracking and brittleness of the product if abused by excessive build millage left on the vehicle. I won't be abusing the polyester primer so the cons of the product don't concern me.
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I have seen it crack before. But it was severely abused. Anything not used as intended will fail. Me personally, I'll take a poly over 2k or epoxy for a "BUILD" primer any day of the week.
 
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MJM said:
Hence the reduced epoxy question because that paint application would be much flatter then un-reduced epoxy if not sanded.
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It won’t be any flatter. A single coat is negligible.

Any texture is not going to contribute to wave. It will all get filled in with a high build primer.
 
No longer valid........ said:
Shoot one coat of unreduced epoxy, wait a day or 2(depending on temp) then shoot your poly. Don't over complicate things with added chemicals or steps.

Your car appears to be very straight and you did a great job with the metal and body work. Don't hammer on the poly and just create yourself a ton of unnecessary work. Try to shoot it smooth, give it a good couple of days to kick and then proceed.
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Thank you brother. A compliment like that coming from a man of your talents is a rewarding feeling. I've gone from beginner to novice, with hopes of one day being regarded as a weekend warrior :)

Prepping right now to spray a fresh coat of epoxy, and I won't pile on the polyester, you have my word.

Will post up pictures in my build thread in a couple of days.
 
As nice as your car appears from what I have seen, I would spray 3 or so coats of epoxy on it , block that and then decide the next step. Just because they make added steps, doesn't mean they are needed or best. All SPI epoxy is the absolute best foundation for your paint job. We all know you are wanting to do the very best job you can.
 
1A Rock said:
As nice as your car appears from what I have seen, I would spray 3 or so coats of epoxy on it , block that and then decide the next step. Just because they make added steps, doesn't mean they are needed or best. All SPI epoxy is the absolute best foundation for your paint job. We all know you are wanting to do the very best job you can.
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Though I do not disagree with you that spraying three more coats of epoxy would be beneficial, I don't feel the epoxy would define sharp body lines like a polyester primer will do. I have built a solid foundation with the epoxy up to this point.

Can you explain to me why all the steps taken in the video I posted where used? That paint job used new body panels compared to my 50 + year old, damaged body panels.

I'm not being argumentative but, there was a reason why that professional shop prepped that Camaro for final paint like they did.
 
Body lines on OE metal shouldn't need "defining" except where they were damaged and repaired improperly. As to new panels on a '68 Camaro, they are all Chinese knockoff garbage. That's why their "new" panels were 100% covered with filler, and why they needed poly, which is best described as a full body skim coat.
 
crashtech said:
Body lines on OE metal shouldn't need "defining" except where they were damaged and repaired improperly. As to new panels on a '68 Camaro, they are all Chinese knockoff garbage. That's why their "new" panels were 100% covered with filler, and why they needed poly, which is best described as a full body skim coat.
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I must be in an agreeable mood tonight because I agree with both your points, however, "body lines on OE metal shouldn't need defining", is in the eye of the beholder. The purist will scream bloody murder for changing details on a car, or classic car. Then you have those guys who add their own custom touches to OE features. I've seen several cars that have had body lines either sharpened, or completely deleted. Some look good, others don't.

My original mom and pop 318 engine grocery getter Barracuda has been so modified from it factory original condition, that a few more added features will only benefit this owners vision. I will be sharpening the body lines on the lower part of the doors as well as the wheel-well body line. The body line at the top of the fender, door, and quarter panel will retain its OE body line shape. One day someone else will own this car, and if they want all the body lines to be OE correct, all they have to do is strip the car to bare metal and reuse the OE body lines that I left on the vehicle for them.
 
Pulled a late nighter until 1:45am to get a fresh coat of epoxy so I can spray polyester Wednesday night or Thursday morning.

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Lizer said:
The reason I don’t sharpen body lines is because they chip easily and look bad when they do.
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This has been my experience. The stuff I do lives in the real world. My best looking and most durable jobs come from epoxy only, activated base, and SPI clear.
 
crashtech said:
This has been my experience. The stuff I do lives in the real world. My best looking and most durable jobs come from epoxy only, activated base, and SPI clear.
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^^^
I'm hoping with time I'll obtain the skills to be able too do a vehicle like that. Admittedly I'm a little envious of your talents.

Mopped the garage floor and cleaned up from last night's thrashing spray. Need to lay down other 3' wide masking paper around the car to catch some of the polyester over spray.

Wish me luck.

For your viewing pleasure.....
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Dean Jenkins said:
I'm in awe of people who can make the masking look so neat and tidy.
Mine always looks like a pre-school art project . . .
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I feel the same way. Its been another learning lesson for me. I'm getting better each time I do it. The hard masking for me is down low from the rocker panel to the ground. I've just have to clean better from the masking tape to hold.
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
Doesm't look like it needs poly primer. I would keep going with epoxy for 3 or 4 more coats then start blocking with 150-180 grit.
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i agree completely i like to get it to that stage 4 coats epoxy start blocking with 120 the guidecoat then finish in 180 when im ready for paint do a final prime in epoxy 2 coats sand with 400 wash seal with reduced epoxy and squirt paint
 
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