Can I do this with epoxy sealer?

MJM said:
^^^
I'm hoping with time I'll obtain the skills to be able too do a vehicle like that. Admittedly I'm a little envious of your talents.

Mopped the garage floor and cleaned up from last night's thrashing spray. Need to lay down other 3' wide masking paper around the car to catch some of the polyester over spray.

Wish me luck.

For your viewing pleasure.....
View attachment 27982
View attachment 27983
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door fitment and everything looks great too. keep up the good work
 
zachm said:
i agree completely i like to get it to that stage 4 coats epoxy start blocking with 120 the guidecoat then finish in 180 when im ready for paint do a final prime in epoxy 2 coats sand with 400 wash seal with reduced epoxy and squirt paint
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me too!
 
crashtech said:
@MJM there's not much to envy, you've proven yourself so capable that some of us are practically begging you not to use the poly. But I get having that mindset where the decision's been made...
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I look at SPI members like 68 Plymouth GTX, RosharonRooste, mopar jim, orange Juice, Dean Jenkins, Lizer, Don Hutton, Texasking and many more SPI members who have far more experience and talents with body work than I do. I just can't believe that I can perform bodywork prep better than they can to exclude having to use a high build primer.

What I have noticed is all those SPI members use some type of high build primer, 2k or polyester in the painting prep process. There is a reason they apply a high build primer after blocking out the epoxy filler process, what is it?

I'm trying to do what I see other SPI members doing. I'd hate to add up all the hours I've spent getting the car to this point only to fail because I missed an important part of the painting process.
 
MJM said:
I look at SPI members like 68 Plymouth GTX, RosharonRooste, mopar jim, orange Juice, Dean Jenkins, Lizer, Don Hutton, Texasking and many more SPI members who have far more experience and talents with body work than I do. I just can't believe that I can perform bodywork prep better than they can to exclude having to use a high build primer.

What I have noticed is all those SPI members use some type of high build primer, 2k or polyester in the painting prep process. There is a reason they apply a high build primer after blocking out the epoxy filler process, what is it?

I'm trying to do what I see other SPI members doing. I'd hate to add up all the hours I've spent getting the car to this point only to fail because I missed an important part of the painting process.
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Just my 2 cents but using poly primer doesn't equate to success nor does it make you able to do a better job. Your blocking is what will determine how well it looks, not what you use. Your car looks really straight in the pics above. You have clearly done well so far. If you plan to drive the car then epoxy only would be really a good idea as it would help minimize chipping among other things. If it was mine I'd put 3 or 4 more coats of epoxy, then start blocking and see where I was at. If there were major lows then maybe poly prime, but if not I'd continue on with epoxy. It will just make it more bulletproof (using epoxy only) and IMO will help it last longer as well.

The last thing I would do is use poly to build up the various edges and bodylines to make them more sharp. You will get plenty of definition just with blocking. Built up lines are a disaster waiting to happen. Especially if built up with poly prime or filler. Those cars that get that type of treatment never see the road and I don't think it makes them look any better.

If that's the look you want and are fine with the risks that's your call. Just trying to share my experience with you.
 
I had zero experience doing Paint and body. Money being a factor for me I decided that I can go epoxy without a build primer and have fantastic results.
I use Grey and black epoxy for my project. That way when I am blocking I stop when I see the other color underneath and it keeps me from repeatedly hitting bare metal. I did learn this method here and that was my decision, rock chips be damned.
 
MJM just my advice on that poly primer. only put it where you think it might need it. there are areas that definately dont need it. u dont want to go spray the entire car in poly like you just did epoxy.

areas that you dont need it are...
1 around door hands and door lock holes
2. drip rails
3 windsheild posts. around the front of the headlights. etc.
4. front and rear glass channels

really just the large areas and u want to kind of fan out / blend them into the door lock area. think of it as sprayable bondo. u wouldnt apply bondo to the drip rails or windsheild posts...theres no need to put poly primer in areas like door jams, trunk jams. windshield cowl area etc.

backyard hack disclaimer.
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
Just my 2 cents but using poly primer doesn't equate to success nor does it make you able to do a better job. Your blocking is what will determine how well it looks, not what you use. Your car looks really straight in the pics above. You have clearly done well so far. If you plan to drive the car then epoxy only would be really a good idea as it would help minimize chipping among other things. If it was mine I'd put 3 or 4 more coats of epoxy, then start blocking and see where I was at. If there were major lows then maybe poly prime, but if not I'd continue on with epoxy. It will just make it more bulletproof (using epoxy only) and IMO will help it last longer as well.

The last thing I would do is use poly to build up the various edges and bodylines to make them more sharp. You will get plenty of definition just with blocking. Built up lines are a disaster waiting to happen. Especially if built up with poly prime or filler. Those cars that get that type of treatment never see the road and I don't think it makes them look any better.

If that's the look you want and are fine with the risks that's your call. Just trying to share my experience with you.
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Sharing experience is a form of communication. I'm not opposed to that.

Here's another polyester user.......

1963 427 Galaxie

We started on this project 3 years ago but the last year it has been on hold. The owner sold it and the new owner wants us to mount the body on the chassis get it rolling and he will finish putting it together. This is what we started with The owner wasted a lot of money...
www.spiuserforum.com
 
RosharonRooster said:
MJM just my advice on that poly primer. only put it where you think it might need it. there are areas that definately dont need it. u dont want to go spray the entire car in poly like you just did epoxy.

areas that you dont need it are...
1 around door hands and door lock holes
2. drip rails
3 windsheild posts. around the front of the headlights. etc.
4. front and rear glass channels

really just the large areas and u want to kind of fan out / blend them into the door lock area. think of it as sprayable bondo. u wouldnt apply bondo to the drip rails or windsheild posts...theres no need to put poly primer in areas like door jams, trunk jams. windshield cowl area etc.

backyard hack disclaimer.
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Absolutely !!!.

Excellent advice, understood.
 
MJM said:
Sharing experience is a form of communication. I'm not opposed to that.

Here's another polyester user.......

1963 427 Galaxie

We started on this project 3 years ago but the last year it has been on hold. The owner sold it and the new owner wants us to mount the body on the chassis get it rolling and he will finish putting it together. This is what we started with The owner wasted a lot of money...
www.spiuserforum.com
Click to expand...
Rusty's Shop does great work. Doesn't change what I was saying though. Doing this for a living guys got to get it done which is why poly is nice. It builds and dries fast. You can block something out fairly quickly when using it. Epoxy only is slower and not done as often although guys like Shine will only use it. If time was no object most quality Shops would use Epoxy only I'll bet.
All I am saying use it when there is a need (time or condition of the vehicle) but in your case your body looks nice and is pretty straight and time isn't really a factor as it's your vehicle.
Your vehicle though so it's your choice obviously. I won't say anything more about it. :)
 
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You probably already know, but just in case . . .
Poly primer kicks really fast. Gotta have everything ready before adding the activator, then rock and roll and get it shot and then get some reducer through the gun.
Risky to try and do multiple coats with one mix. Could end up with a gun full of dried poly and have to throw it away. This I know as a fact :rolleyes:
 
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I'm generally a really easy going guy, but when I painted for a living I dealt with some nasty work place drama. And when the guy who caused all of it decided to get in the booth to do his own project and left some G2 in his gun when he left, I saw it and just thought.....man that's gonna be a mess to clean up after the weekend!
 
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When doing that large an area, I would put a touch (3-5%) of very slow reducer or even retarder in the poly, depending on surface temps.
 
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