Cavity Waxes

Not sure if this will help but what the hay. Years ago I took a Shutz gun, saved the can, took a clear hose cut for size, and plugged the end with a bolt. Drilled about 4 to 6 holes 1/8 drill bit in the last 4 inches of the hose. Used it for many tight areas with epoxy and once for undercoating
One of my best tools.
 
I fluid film everything, but to get epoxy in the hard to reach areas I use the pro fluid film gun with the flexible tubing extension.
 
Follow VW owner here who has toiled over the same issue. Here is what I came up with.

Srep1:
Remove as much rust and scale as possible from inside the rocker and heater channels.
process:
- Get an 8' length of braided steel wire, fray about 6" at one end, and stop the fray with a zip tie.
- Get a 7' length of 3/8" or 1/2" PVC or EMT pipe, feed the wire through it, and attach the non-frayed end to a corded drill.
- Feed the pipe/wire contraption through the inspection holes in the rear wheel well (one for the rocker cavity and the other for the heater duct.
- Fire up the drill and work the pipe in and out of the cavity to loosen the rust and scale.
- Use a length of hose attached to a blow gun to fluff up the debris.
- vacuum out the debris using the largest ID hose you can fit through the inspection holes. Repeat until clean.


Step 2:
Spray SPI epoxy (thinned/full strength) using a cavity wax applicator
process:
- Get a cavity wax applicator with an extension wand. I am using this one:

woolwax Pro Undercoating Gun by Kellsport ​

- extend the hose/wand so it reaches the entire length of the cavities.
- Spray epoxy, let flash, respray.


You can find me on TheSamba.com if you have VW-specific questions. I also have detailed plans for a rotisserie I designed and built for about $200 if that is of any use to you.

My build thread is: HERE

Cheers,
Emil
 
Evil_Fiz said:
Follow VW owner here who has toiled over the same issue. Here is what I came up with.

Srep1:
Remove as much rust and scale as possible from inside the rocker and heater channels.
process:
- Get an 8' length of braided steel wire, fray about 6" at one end, and stop the fray with a zip tie.
- Get a 7' length of 3/8" or 1/2" PVC or EMT pipe, feed the wire through it, and attach the non-frayed end to a corded drill.
- Feed the pipe/wire contraption through the inspection holes in the rear wheel well (one for the rocker cavity and the other for the heater duct.
- Fire up the drill and work the pipe in and out of the cavity to loosen the rust and scale.
- Use a length of hose attached to a blow gun to fluff up the debris.
- vacuum out the debris using the largest ID hose you can fit through the inspection holes. Repeat until clean.


Step 2:
Spray SPI epoxy (thinned/full strength) using a cavity wax applicator
process:
- Get a cavity wax applicator with an extension wand. I am using this one:

woolwax Pro Undercoating Gun by Kellsport​

- extend the hose/wand so it reaches the entire length of the cavities.
- Spray epoxy, let flash, respray.


You can find me on TheSamba.com if you have VW-specific questions. I also have detailed plans for a rotisserie I designed and built for about $200 if that is of any use to you.

My build thread is: HERE

Cheers,
Emil
Click to expand...
Great info, Thanks Evil. I ended up putting a bore scope down to inspect and the rust was not bad. the only areas with any real rust were rearmost and front most parts of the channel. I had patched a 1 inch rust hole on one side last year. I didn't even think to try to run a whip in there. I thought I had gotten all the blast media out but found piles of it so I spent about 3 hours blowing it up and down the channel to a tube taped to a vacuum to get it all out. I then ended up taping up all the holes and using eastwood internal frame coating and a wand to spray in from each body mount hole and each inspection hole until it dripped out. I checked it a few days later and got good coverage. Its not the best solution but I think it will cover me for another 50 or so years.

I didn't really mess with any of this in earlier stages as I was thinking I could just shoot cavity wax which you want to do after paint. Next time I think I will be addressing this in more detail as you describe BEFORE paint and I can spend my time getting things really cleaned and coated in epoxy while not worrying about splatter or run out onto good paint. I did not do a rotisserie this time and got through it, but I will be doing one on any future builds. It would let me rotate and let epoxy coat and seep into crevices at every angle. So much would have been easier with the ability to rotate.


Question:

Feed the pipe/wire contraption through the inspection holes in the rear wheel well (one for the rocker cavity and the other for the heater duct.
Click to expand...

Is this on a bug? The only inspection holes I know of are on the interior of the car on the front and rear inside of the channel. Have any pics of this?

edit, Looking through your build thread I see you are a KG guy.
 
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