Cavity Waxes

I personally think some products are better suited for different applications. Such as, I like a thinner product to creep in door bottoms, rockers etc. The thicker waxes are ok inside frame rails, in cavities up higher where salt spray, water cannot get into, etc. Just my opinion.
 
I sell and use both Transtar 4423 & Carworx 126.061, Those both work well at around $22 per can, The Carworx is thinner so it creeps more as well as drips on the floor more if you go too heavy. I generally give all my areas a coating until I see it drip on the floor, Then I coat it again after a few hours. A stiff wand is the best way to be sure it gets where you want it. The Carworx comes with a rolled up wand that tends to roll back up while using inside the panel. 3M makes a good one but it's over $35 most places
 
My application will be on the inside of the heater channels on a VW bug if that makes a difference in recommendation. It will get hot and ooze profusely I anticipate. Also planning to treat the bottom of doors and the rear side of the A and B pillar
 
I don't think you can put anything in there. First it will all melt out as it is actual wax. Plus the smell inside the car as it does that will make it undrivable.
hmm. Any other suggestions for heater channels? Its an area prone to rust from temp fluctuation and condensation.
 
Is it on a rotisserie? I poured epoxy in my doors then rolled them around until epoxy oozed everywhere.
Nope and all paint is complete. I can still hit the doors with cavity wax, and did get down on the seam the best I could with a paint brush when epoxying before paint but the heater channels have had nothing done to the inside.
 
My application will be on the inside of the heater channels on a VW bug if that makes a difference in recommendation. It will get hot and ooze profusely I anticipate. Also planning to treat the bottom of doors and the rear side of the A and B pillar
I like to take the doors off and tape all the openings except one, which is for pouring epoxy in. Reducing is better, but on this tail gate I used a quart of full strength SPI epoxy and just rolled it around in every angle. It gets in behind everything, seals the seam, and its all thats needed.

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I like to take the doors off and tape all the openings except one, which is for pouring epoxy in. Reducing is better, but on this tail gate I used a quart of full strength SPI epoxy and just rolled it around in every angle. It gets in behind everything, seals the seam, and its all thats needed.

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Did it take a whole quart of epoxy doing that way? Or did you pour out the excess?
I would like to do my doors with that method but have no idea how much it would take.
 
I don't remember just how much, but there was some left over using full strength. You have to have a fair amount left over in order to get full coverage.
Did it take a whole quart of epoxy doing that way? Or did you pour out the excess?
I would like to do my doors with that method but have no idea how much it would take.
 
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Ok I thought it was a heater tube.
Heater channels on that run up the sides of the bug front to rear. Without a wand to snake in there inst a real good way to coat, unless you can roll the whole body around, which would require a rotisserie and be done before paint. They are the section where the red flow arrows are and they are welded to the body as part of the rigid structure

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im just figuring out your a vendor....im slow lol. you have a website? there are always odds and ends we need that Barry dont carry.
No website, I deal mainly with my local customers (SW Wisconsin area) I am a one man operation and deliver all my own parts and supplies. I can ship items if you have no local source, but am not looking to get into that as a regular thing. I am busy enough now as it is. I stock most of the same things as Keystone (hoods, fenders, lights, bumpers ect.) as well as Key Parts rust repair panels, and a wide range of paint supplies (SPI, 3M, SEM, Evercoat, SATA ect.) Oh, and I also have thousands of boxes of AuVeCo fasteners in stock.
 
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