CeraKote or ..........
- Thread starter aviator8
- Start date
Ill take a look, never heard of them.
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
dhutton01
Backyard Hack
That’s correct
I guess I should say is my primary goal is to extend longevity and look, as these peices tend to rust quickly, rather than performance or insulative properties. I used thier online estimator and a muffler is about $152 which isnt too bad, but probably 2-3x Cerakote. I dont want to use a product that will just fail in short order though, thus the ask.
jlcustomz
evil painter
I looked into the DIY air dry Cerakote header formula a few years ago, just never finished my headers to try it or research any further.. From what I understood people say about it, it needed to dry a week or 2 to obtain durability before use. also some colors like the silver chrome weren't available in air Dry. Never had jet hot done, but any coated headers I've ever touched were all the thin coating. Pretty sure the gray color on the used Kooks Nascar LS series headers I chopped up for parts was Cerakote . Some of the colors like the popular chrome silver aren't rated for as much heat as some of the duller looking colors. I know the clear & colored air dry regular cerakote stuff has a good rep among gun people& the army uses it. Just can't personally verify the air dry header stuff yet.
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
The only truly ceramic insulating coating for headers is the white lightning coating by Swaintech. Jet-Hot and others is fairly thin and more decorative than insulating.
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
Jet-Hot is close to me in Burlington NC. Back when I had my new 93 LX 5.0 Notch. I took a set of shorty headers to them to be coated. When I got them they looked great, top notch really. About a year later and approximately 6K miles later they were discolored and peeling in places. Jet-Hot had a warranty but it was too much hassle to remove them and have them redone. Guy I was selling the car to didn't care that they were discolored so I never got them done.
Wish I still had that car.
It was a beast. I installed one of the original GT-40 tubular intakes, had one of the first run of aluminum GT-40 cylinder heads as well. I knew Sonny Leonard (RIP Sonny) pretty well back then and he ported them for me for almost nothing. He didn't do that type of work for the public so I considered it a real honor that he liked me enough to do it for me. I miss Sonny. Jones camshaft, big MAF meter and throttle body, 3.73 gears, and a few other things. Had a guy in Charlotte NC re-tune the EEC-IV which in 94 was very rare.
Only took it to Roxboro NC (drag) a couple of times. 1/8 mile track, best run was 7.45 @ 91 mph on drag radials. That is equivalent to approximately 11.6 in the 1/4 mile. So fairly quick for a NA car in 1994 Really docile to drive too. I would average 22-23 MPG when not having my foot in it. I was really stupid for selling it. Wanted to buy a 94 Mazda RX-7, so I sold it. Ended up never buying an RX-7. Really miss that car.
Wish I still had that car.
It was a beast. I installed one of the original GT-40 tubular intakes, had one of the first run of aluminum GT-40 cylinder heads as well. I knew Sonny Leonard (RIP Sonny) pretty well back then and he ported them for me for almost nothing. He didn't do that type of work for the public so I considered it a real honor that he liked me enough to do it for me. I miss Sonny. Jones camshaft, big MAF meter and throttle body, 3.73 gears, and a few other things. Had a guy in Charlotte NC re-tune the EEC-IV which in 94 was very rare.Only took it to Roxboro NC (drag) a couple of times. 1/8 mile track, best run was 7.45 @ 91 mph on drag radials. That is equivalent to approximately 11.6 in the 1/4 mile. So fairly quick for a NA car in 1994 Really docile to drive too. I would average 22-23 MPG when not having my foot in it. I was really stupid for selling it. Wanted to buy a 94 Mazda RX-7, so I sold it. Ended up never buying an RX-7. Really miss that car.
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Dave C 5
Member
High Temperature Paint
Thurmalox, manufactured by Dampney Company, Inc. of Everett, Mass., is available in easy to use aerosol spray cans, a one pint brushable black, gallon, five gallon, 35 gallon and 55 gallon containers
www.stovepaint.com
I never had luck with the typical “high heat”paint you get at autozone or similar type places BUT this stuff is holding up on a set of headers. Don’t know if paint is an option for you
shine
Member
you can destroy a set of headers with a bad tune. keep the heat in the cylinder not the headers . learned that with harleys years ago. but i have never found anything better than Jet hot.
also remember cheap headers from china will rust out fast no matter what you coat them with. inferior steel.
also remember cheap headers from china will rust out fast no matter what you coat them with. inferior steel.
Raymond_B
Hobbyist
What type of metal are you using? Stainless? Mild steel?
Raymond_B
Hobbyist
OK that's what I figured, have you compared the price of stainless vs doing mild steel + a coating?
I'd love to just buy stainless, unfortunately it is only available for my engine setup from one place I have found and diverts from the original look as they are custom, and quite $$$$. Its three times as much for muffler and two heater boxes and only the muffler is stainless at that.