ceramic paint sealants

danp76;n85256 said:
Would be nice to have some scientific data, seems like we don't have any real definitive information for or against it.
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All kinds of data out there, been many studies done and of all test they lasted 30 to 90 days max under normal use.
Have you ever seen a new car a kid gets and he waxes it every month, then two years latter he misses a beat and the paint job looks 10 years old, so he has to wax it again.
Paint must have air as not air tight or water proof.
For years I have said only use a carnuba wax on your paint job and I know a lot of people thought what an idiot, then finally 3 or 5 years a go the head of R&D of Basf was speaking at the custom hot rod show and the question was asked: How do we make out paint jobs last? His blunt answer? Don't wax it!

If you think your car paint is waterproof and don't need air, stick it under water for 5-9 months "WITHOUT bringing it up for air", it will start bubbling off the ecoat or epoxy.
 
funny you say that barry. almost every plastic out there is hydroscopic. urethanes being no different. they suck up moisture like a sponge. being plastic you wouldnt think that its even possible but it is. one of the worse ones is nylon. that plastic will suck up so much moisture just from humidity that when you melt it, it will steam. even petg which is a polyester. the plastic water bottles are made out of. water wont pass through it but it does absorb it. abs, pvc, the list goes on. this water need to be released at some point, hence the breathing you speak of. if the plastic just stays wet forever then of course there will be failure in the paint film, clouding or other issues.
 
Jim, I did an accidental experiment with plastic water bottles. We bought some bottled water when a hurricane was on its way. The storm didn't develop so I stored the 6-pack in a cabinet in the garage. Forgot all about it for a couple of years. When I found it, all of the bottles were missing a lot of water. The caps were never opened and the shrink wrap was still intact. Looks like about half the water leached out of the bottles. We no longer buy bottled water - plastic is definitely permeable. Made me wonder what kind of stuff could go the other way and pass through the plastic into the water.
6-yearOldWaterBottles_zps9382cd2e.jpg
 
Bob Heine;n85271 said:
Made me wonder what kind of stuff could go the other way and pass through the plastic into the water.
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Yeah I've seen many warnings about not drinking out of plastic water bottles once they've gotten hot, like left in a car.
 
Raymond_B;n85272 said:
Yeah I've seen many warnings about not drinking out of plastic water bottles once they've gotten hot, like left in a car.
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yep it releases bad chemicals.
 
not to derail this topic but couple things here. no much is going to go the other way and contaminate the water. it has to be a very small molecule. #2 pete and petg are both polyesters and basically inert. no chemicals are being released. to contaminate anything the plastic would have to get so hot that it would melt and degrade as in burn. in which case there will be no water in the bottle. those plastics are all fda approved and good even for medical grade devices. some bottles now days are pla (polylacticacid) plastic. these are the ones advertised as being "green" or biodradable. these bottles and plastic cups are actually made from a form of sugar. actually comes from corn. nothing to worry about with that stuff either.
 
I know I can grab a bottled water and it can have a hint taste of plastic or something especially if it got warm from the sun. I figure that even though they say they made it safe I also know they say a lot of things that is BS. So with the gov't I take what they say with a grain of salt and error on the side of caution.
 
well this may be true but what you have to take into account is "on paper" and "real life". yes pet plastic is non toxic and all that assuming its pure but you are also relying on a mega sized bottle manufacturer to make those bottle by the billions and not have any contamination in the plastic....lol good luck. then there is the mega bottle manufacturer buying tons and tons of raw pet pellets from the lowest bidder. much of that plastic is recycled so other bits of plastic get mixed in here and there. the odds of being 100% pure is slim to none. i bet you will find this taste happen more with generic or economy bottled water. i have never had it happen with any from the major drink manufacturers. remember its not just water. its every clear plastic bottle produced. all sodas, juices and damn near everything else. cant avoid it really.

ok im done, back on topic.

ceramic sealants, like chad i have talked to people who have had it done and say its great but damn if i will put it on anything of mine. not only am i scared to do it but it just seems like a scam and i am getting ripped off. i need some hard proof.
 
Thanks for all the great educational posts, great job!

By the way this is not ceramic, just a play on words, same with clears, their are 100"s of nano additives and I may have 20 different ones myself and their are positives and negatives for everyone of them.
About 7 years ago we sandblasted a trailer, that we bought in 97 for the business, so I took my black single stage and added 3% by weight of a self healing nano, shot 3 coats on trailer, no longer used but sentimental to us and in 3 years deader then a door nail.

Sounds good to call it a ceramic coating though, bet I could sell a lot , if made it, just get my phone disconnected in about three years to avoid the calls. LOL
 
There may be something to some of these new products as far as adding gloss or ease of cleaning. BUT, on other forums, I'm that one guy that rarely even uses any carnuba based wax on any vehicle. I like to colorsand & buff fully on new paint jobs, lightly on factory or jobs I didn't paint, Occasional light & even heavy spot buff where needed, & mainly glazing stuff & detailing sprays between washings.

​When my wife sold her purchased new 01'black 300M last year cared for by me, the original paint was shinier than new. I think that says something for us here on this forum.
 
Topic resurrection!

I was asked by a dealer to repaint a bumper that had GlassCoat on it. I told him that I needed to get some polycracker before I could do it. My fear, is that all of the bug damage divots have soaked up the glass coat and that it may have even leached into the plastic, making it impossible to remove it all. Is this a possibility? I told him that if I do it, I never want to hear of this car again. Dealer be warned!
 
i dont think it will actually soak into things since its a super hard coating BUT you will need to completely sand every square mm of that bumper, prime and repaint. your not going to scuff with a scotchbrite and blend anything
 
Jim C said:
i dont think it will actually soak into things since its a super hard coating BUT you will need to completely sand every square mm of that bumper, prime and repaint. your not going to scuff with a scotchbrite and blend anything
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I called Simoniz, and they said 1500-2k grit wet will take it off. Still sounds like a losing deal for me.
 
Cars and trucks cost more than ever, even adjusting for inflation. OEM bean counters say "hey we can save $10 a vehicle if we put less clear on it".:mad: So to compensate for less clear we get these various aftermarket coatings which may or more likely may not work. None of it would be necessary if the OEM's put one more coat of clear on a vehicle and charged the customer $25 more. Think back to say the early '90's. OEM finishes had almost no peel in them and actually looked pretty good. Now fast forward to the present. Look at the amount of orange peel in vehicles especially Domestics. (Ford's are particularly egregious ) Older I get the more I realize that smart people are not in positions of authority in Industry or Politics (with one notable exception although he/she is not perceived as such;)) Blowhard's and people with their heads stuck in a particular spot are running our lives.

Sorry for the rant. (I'm getting grumpy, think Shine is rubbing off on me:p)
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
Cars and trucks cost more than ever, even adjusting for inflation. OEM bean counters say "hey we can save $10 a vehicle if we put less clear on it".:mad: So to compensate for less clear we get these various aftermarket coatings which may or more likely may not work. None of it would be necessary if the OEM's put one more coat of clear on a vehicle and charged the customer $25 more. Think back to say the early '90's. OEM finishes had almost no peel in them and actually looked pretty good. Now fast forward to the present. Look at the amount of orange peel in vehicles especially Domestics. (Ford's are particularly egregious ) Older I get the more I realize that smart people are not in positions of authority in Industry or Politics (with one notable exception although he/she is not perceived as such;)) Blowhard's and people with their heads stuck in a particular spot are running our lives.

Sorry for the rant. (I'm getting grumpy, think Shine is rubbing off on me:p)
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I thought I seen you sign in at the door, Welcome to the club ;).
 
AAE said:
I called Simoniz, and they said 1500-2k grit wet will take it off. Still sounds like a losing deal for me.
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I would agree, one wrong step and/or missed spot and your back to square one and you look stupid (in their eyes).
 
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