color sanding

That's exactly what I figured. I tried out the coarser grits of sunmight, and I may order some of their new ceramic line in some 320 and 400 to try it out.
 
I’ve used those foam pads before. My jobber carries them . I’ll use them in a pinch but I’m not impressed
 
Anyone have any thoughts on using my 3/32 dynabrade for sanding clear? Or should I just sell it and get another 3/16’s for clear.
 
Jim C said:
Your not removing anything with the 8000. Its only for refining 2500-3000 or finer scratches.
Click to expand...
Thanks Jim. I misunderstood the video. I thought they were saying only sand with 8000 and no coarser grits. I should have read further.

B2214E7A-02C7-4928-B3F9-5080CD50DA30.png


Don
 
Last edited:
Jim C said:
Im not seeing that. Chart says start with 1500 then 3000 then 8000. 8000 for micro scratch refinement
Click to expand...
Yes once I read the chart I knew I misunderstood the video. The video shows the 8000 removing a lot of material. Old age can be cruel sometimes… :)

Don
 
Last edited:
dhutton01 said:
Yes once I read the chart I knew I misunderstood the video. Old age can be cruel sometimes… :)

Don
Click to expand...
I'm using the 3M Trizact system now.
I use a hand block, 600 for runs, 1000 for peel, then 1500, 3000, 8000 Trizact, then 3M 36060 cutting compound, then 3M 06094 machine polish, then 3M 06068 ultrafine machine polish. Finally 3M 05990 hand glaze.
Works pretty good.
 
Last edited:
I'm a little late to this thread, haven't been here for a while. This thread is priceless, and a good review to read!

In 2020/2021, I painted my truck with black base / universal clear, and finally getting to the cut, buff, and polish. Couple years ago I bought Eagle 1000/1200/1500, and Trizact 3000/8000. Sonax Cutmax, EX 04-06.

I'm at wits end pulling my hair out trying to get a show quality finish. I'm spending about 10 hours per panel and getting mediocre results. (swirls and scratches).

A couple of the biggest issues are pigtails, and getting out the 1500 scratch. I have noticed that Trizact 3000 takes A LOT of work to get out the 1500, and it quickly wears out. I only get about 3-4 square feet per disc. I have determined that Trizact 3000 is garbage. Thanks to this thread, I'm going to try Buflex 2500, since I ran out of Trizact. Or just grab some 2000 and 2500 wet from the store, and do it by hand.

Next is pig tails. I cant keep the surface clean. Dirt magnetically jumps from nowhere onto the truck. I do about 1-2 square feet at a time, stopping to clean the disc, and the surface. Then wipe until the surface is perfectly clean. I have used compressed air to thoroughly blow out all dust in the sander. I use only the weight of the sander (3/16 orbit), on slow-medium speed. I can't get 2 feet without pigtails forming. I'm using discs with holes, so maybe that's where dirt or junk is getting trapped. I'm going to try to switch to discs without holes and see if that helps.

In conclusion, I have been following procedures in this thread and other threads on the forum. It comes down to patience and practice. I think Barry is right, newbies don't sand enough! I'm currently doing a door all hand sanding through 2000 wet. Hopefully no pigtails with 3000-8000 on the D/A.

And lastly, (in my opinion), universal clear is a bit soft. IF I ever paint again... I would like to try Euro Clear instead.
 
i can tell you your not sanding enough with 1500 to get the 1000 out. that is #1. #2 the pigtails. when your dry sanding with the yellow discs are you seeing pigtails in the dust when you sand or are you actually getting random large pigtails in the the clear when your try to buff? #3 yes 3000 trizact is junk. 8000 is great. why, i dont know. #4, your first grit should be dry. after you get a perfect surface with your first grit then you can move on to wetsanding to just refine the scratches. 1000 dry then 1500 wet, 2500 wet then 8000 trizact. it doesnt matter what grits or the brand of paper, if you not sanding the scratches out completely from the previous grit then when you go to buff your going to be making alot of work for yourself. when i do my wet 1500 and 2500 step i have found that once the water flashes and i am looking at the dry white dust on the surface, if i can see the paint color though the dust then i have not sanded enough. surface should be solid white.
 
Dean Jenkins said:
I'm using the 3M Trizact system now.
I use a hand block, 600 for runs, 1000 for peel, then 1500, 3000, 8000 Trizact, then 3M 36060 cutting compound, then 3M 06094 machine polish, then 3M 06068 ultrafine machine polish. Finally 3M 05990 hand glaze.
Works pretty good.
Click to expand...
I used to use those exact compounds. Then I switched to 3D aca , and menzerna and sonax. Threw away all my 3M stuff....try it
 
RosharonRooster said:
I used to use those exact compounds. Then I switched to 3D aca , and menzerna and sonax. Threw away all my 3M stuff....try it
Click to expand...
Yeah, I've made detailed notes from this thread and have a new plan for the current project. Hoping to paint right after July 4th and after 1-2 weeks curing, hit it with the new stuff.
Black, arghhh . . .
 
Dean Jenkins said:
Yeah, I've made detailed notes from this thread and have a new plan for the current project. Hoping to paint right after July 4th and after 1-2 weeks curing, hit it with the new stuff.
Black, arghhh . . .
Click to expand...
Yeah buddy. I put those products to the test my first go around on a black job I did. Results were great. I use a dewalt rotary to buff.
 
i can tell you your not sanding enough with 1500 to get the 1000 out. that is #1. #2 the pigtails. when your dry sanding with the yellow discs are you seeing pigtails in the dust when you sand or are you actually getting random large pigtails in the the clear when your try to buff?
Click to expand...
Probably not sanding enough. Though I'm sure junk is getting under the paper and causing scratches. YES, large pigtails deep into the clear. I had to go back to 1000 by hand to get out the pigtails.

many pigtail problems are from building heat and melting the sanding dust into small pebbles that stick to your pad and cause the pigtail . too much speed , too much pressure , too much heat .
Click to expand...
Using a Festool sander on speed 2 (of 6). Only using the weight of the sander, no pressure.

Here's 8 hours of sanding on a door today.... All by hand. 1000/1200/1500/2000. Trizact 3000/5000/8000. Cutmax, then ex 04-06. Looks great from 2 feet. Up close in the sun, scratches... :( 30 minutes after polish, pulled it outside, and already covered in dirt and dust. I swear this thing is magnetic. I'm almost embarrassed to show these pics.





The sideways scratch is from 1500. The vertical swirls if from the buffer.

I'm struggling to get the 1500 out. After 1500, I did 2000 wet. Counting 10 strokes, move an inch, 10 more, move an inch, etc. Went back over it up to 10 times. So that is over 100 passes, and didn't do squat to cut the 1500 scratch. :(
 
Last edited:
MX442 said:
Probably not sanding enough. Though I'm sure junk is getting under the paper and causing scratches. YES, large pigtails deep into the clear. I had to go back to 1000 by hand to get out the pigtails.


Using a Festool sander on speed 2 (of 6). Only using the weight of the sander, no pressure.

Here's 8 hours of sanding on a door today.... All by hand. 1000/1200/1500/2000. Trizact 3000/5000/8000. Cutmax, then ex 04-06. Looks great from 2 feet. Up close in the sun, scratches... :( 30 minutes after polish, pulled it outside, and already covered in dirt and dust. I swear this thing is magnetic. I'm almost embarrassed to show these pics.





The sideways scratch is from 1500. The vertical swirls if from the buffer.
Click to expand...
Disclaimer, I'm no professional, but everything I paint I need to polish because I live in the middle rice fields and there's always wind and stuff in the air. Here is my advice. Never mix paper in a bucket. . Don't even bucket sand. Use a spray bottle. Only use microfiber towels, and or blue shop towels to wipe. Listen to what is going on. If u hear high pitch squeek...u got something between paper and panel.
After each step. Dry with towel and air dry completely, and assess what u got. From different angles.. when its time to buff, cool environment, not in the sun, my personal opine is, leave the DA buffing for waxing a new car. Need rotary. Wool pad to start. After you are done, clean with wax n grease remover and blow dry. Make sure all compound is gone. And move to the next step with new pad. Don't mix compounds in pad. You'd be surprised how good that might clean up with cutting compound, blue shop towel, by hand. That being said, I don't think I'll ever own another black car.
 
I have used your method EXACTLY. I spray the panel with a bottle. When I hear a squeek, I rinse the paper in a bucket, clean the panel, and re-spray with the water bottle. Doing about 1 square foot at a time, clean, dry, wipe off the dirt, repeat.
 
I've had the same problems cutting and buffing UC. I was using a bucket of water too which I now ditched. It doesn't help you know, but EURO is easier to cut and buff IMO. But, use a spray bottle or a constant source of running water. I've hooked up a 3/8" vinyl hose to the end of my garden hose with a slow stream of water. Do the work inside if you can to reduce airborne dirt getting between the sandpaper and panel.
 
Like Ken stated above don't use a bucket. Spray bottle or hose only. Inside is a must as well. To me it looks like you are using the wrong pad with your final polish. Or you are getting a lot of airborne grit. Once you get it sorted keep in mind for black the 3M Ultrafina polish combined with the 3M Ultrafina pad is great for getting all the spiderweb scratches out and giving you a perfect finish. Only 3M buffing product I still use. It works wonders on black and other dark colors.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top