Epoxy didn't stick

with the wAG, are you soakin a rag and wiping down the surfaces or spraying it on? spraying it will lift any contaminates and get em suspended into the WAG and can be wiped off. soakin a rag and wiping down the surface just moves crap from one spot to another on the surface.
 
tomsteve;17721 said:
with the wAG, are you soakin a rag and wiping down the surfaces or spraying it on? spraying it will lift any contaminates and get em suspended into the WAG and can be wiped off. soakin a rag and wiping down the surface just moves crap from one spot to another on the surface.
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I must respectfully disagree. Done properly, both techniques will result in a clean surface. The critical aspect is that the area being cleaned remain wet until the second dry wipe is used to pick up suspended contaminants.
 
tomsteve;17721 said:
with the wAG, are you soakin a rag and wiping down the surfaces or spraying it on? spraying it will lift any contaminates and get em suspended into the WAG and can be wiped off. soakin a rag and wiping down the surface just moves crap from one spot to another on the surface.
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crashtech;17722 said:
I must respectfully disagree. Done properly, both techniques will result in a clean surface. The critical aspect is that the area being cleaned remain wet until the second dry wipe is used to pick up suspended contaminants.
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It looks like you are talking about two different techniques here. tomsteve, if you are suggesting using only a soaked rag, then it will just move crap to another spot.
 
The point is to saturate the surface to bring conaminates up to the top. Saturating a rag will do the same as spraying it on. The key is that second CLEAN rag pass.

2 different ways...and as crash said, both work. I personally spray the panel thn wipe with one rag then follow with another dry rag as the first one gets saturated pretty quick.
 
shine;17741 said:
are you seriously trying to say using a rag will not get it clean ?????
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Not me Shine, I'm a two rag guy. Just pointing out that tomsteve is not talking about the proper method.
 
Agreed, it works fine either way, cleaner on then wipe it off. Sometimes I spray sometimes I wipe on-there are times when you don't want the cleaner sprayed on.
 
i'm not a big fan of spraying . that sprayer will atomize the cleaner and it will float around. i use a soaked rag, always have and always will. with it i know exactly where the cleaner is going.
 
I go both ways, apply to rag, then wipe panel, or spray panel, then wipe. both ways then wiped with clean rag while panel is wet.

If I am doing a small area I will use the rag method. I have a lab bottle that has the applicator nozzle going into the bottom of the bottle. squeeze and fluid comes out the tip onto the cloth.
I learned many years ago to never apply a rag to the can top.

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I use the blue shop towels on a roll from Costco. I had a problem once with them, which was a fault on my part, but could be caused before you were to purchase them.
I was rebuilding a 2005 Focus getting ready for color.

I wiped down the car and when I shot the base, wooooh nelly. Talk about a reaction, you could dam near see the folds in the towels there was such a pattern on the body.
I wiped the base off with reducer. Scuffed the panels, wiped down again making sure I didnt mix up my towels. Shot the base again and it was De Javu.

I cleaned the mess up again and started over with a roll of paper towels stolen from my wifes pantry. Presto - no more problems.

I had stored the 10 pack of blue towels in a metal cabinet which also has new sealed plastic qt and gallon bottles of motor oil.

The oil containers emitted vapors which were able to penetrade the plastic wrap on the towels and permiate the towels.

Since that day forward I have never stored the Costco blue towels in the cabinet and not had another problem.

Live and learn.
 
use the two rag /paper towel /wipe on wipe off, method and look closely for wipe marks, cause you can see when cleaner gets pushed around on the surface. its gotta be squeaky sterile clean.
 
I put the W&G remover in a spray bottle and then use the Krew 600 shop towels to wipe it clean. Spray it on the panel and wipe immediately. Change the drying towel repeatedly.
 
Alright, I'm back. Didn't get as much done this weekend as I wanted to. I spend a good part of Saturday working on my girlfriend's car instead. But this morning I tried it again. I got the passenger quarter stripped again, cleaned it, and hit it with 80 on a DA. This time I tried my new infrared thermometer. I had the quarter anywhere from 94 degrees to 125 degrees using a halogen lamp. I put my cup of epoxy on top of the electric heater while it was inducing and it read 118 degrees just before I sprayed. I got some solvent based w/g remover this time too. I gave it 30 minutes before I sprayed and I put on two coats with 30 min flash time in between. It laid down well and I didn't see any fish eyes this time. That was about 11 this morning. I left my electric heater going and the last time I checked at 7 o'clock it was still 70 degrees in the shop. I hope all goes well this time.

Does anyone know how long before I will be able to tell if it stuck? The last time I used Transtar w/g remover. Anyone have any experience with that? Also I was wondering if anyone ever uses Purple Power. The guy that taught me how to paint always used that to wash a car after the final 600 sanding just before paint. I was wondering how that might work, if diluted, as a w/g remover. I just know that it has to be rinsed really well to get it all off.
 
what part of 70 degrees did you miss ? 118 degrees is ridiculous . your next step will be making jelly.
 
You went little overboard on the heat but I don't think that will hurt you since it is a small panel.
My whole concern now is the term wax and grease remover. What wax and grease remover? Since this may have been the problem to begain with.

Purple power is not a problem if rinsed.
 
The heat won't hurt from what I've seen, I've blasted structures outside in the hot august sun and epoxied there at the same time and I'm sure the panel temps were 140*ish and the epoxy around 100* and no problems at all but the cure is faster. I've also preheated the epoxy during induction up to 120* and performance has always been excellent. Bake booths normally run around 140* so he's well within the temperature range. The adhesion problems are definately contaminant related.
 
I use purple power on greasy stuff, like engines and tractors, but only as a pre-wash. I use it before I start blasting, so I don't smear the grease around or beat it into the metal. Usually I spray it on and pressure wash it off several times. It works very well from my experience. I doubt you would have a problem with what you did, but I would get some SPI 700 and use it from now on. It is specifficaly designed for use before paint.
 
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I assumed that by the time I got the epoxy in the gun and got it sprayed there would be a dramitic decrease in the temp so I wanted to play it safe.

The cleaner I used the first time was made by Transtar. What I used yesterday was basically acetone. The last time I used a solvent based cleaner was years ago. I think it was made by Klean Strip - it was in a blue/green bottle at Autozone. Couldn't find any of that - acetone was all I could find over the weekend.

Whatever I did, it seems to have worked so far. This morning I tried blocking a small area with 80 grit and the epoxy was pretty hard and seemed to be stuck well. I sanded until I hit metal in several spots and it never gave any hint at coming loose. I already ordered some 700 this morning. I got my roof stripped so I will try it next with the 700.
 
Sounds like it is working, Great!

Some of my worst nightmares have been wax and grease removers, not worth any money saved what so ever.
 
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