epoxy in sun

danp76

Oldtimer
After I spray my epoxy, how long do I have to wait before I can put it out in the sun? Can I spray my coats and immediately put in in the sun to help dry it? What is the maximum amount of coats you guys are doing on a metal part that is just receiving epoxy? Are 2 coats sufficient, or is there a need for more?..
 
2 coats are fine... Wet sand them with 600 before you base them.. If its been weeks or months prior to topcoating, apply a 50% reduced coat of epoxy 30 minutes before basing.. You will be good to go
 
Thanks Bondoking, now what about pieces that are just receiving epoxy, like a frame, how many coats would be ideal?...and also why can't I just 180 grit old epoxy and apply 2k turbo over sanded epoxy if I have body work to do?
 
2 coats on frame are perfect. You can also 180 parts and apply 2k if you so choose. Still you will have better adhesion on very old epoxy with the 50% reduced coat of epoxy before you add anything else over it
 
Barry,

I wasn't aware of any cautions on moving parts with fresh epoxy into the sun right away. What can happen and how hot would it have to get for there to be a problem?
 
Bondoking, I have new quarters that I welded onto a 56 chevy convertible. Before I welded them on, I put on two coats of black epoxy on the inside, and two coats of gray on the outside. I was thinking I would apply epoxy on the outside where my body work and welding is needed, but wasn't aware that the whole panel would need more epoxy. I thought I was going to simply d/a with 180 and apply turbo primer or poly-spray over the existing epoxy, why put more epoxy over already good epoxy that has been saned to except the turbo or poly-spray?
 
epoxy has a re-coat window for the best adhesion. if its been more than 2 or three days, recoating with a reduced coat starts the window again for the topcoat.
 
So epoxy will only bond chemically, not mechanically?...that is I can't sand epoxy that's in good condition and apply 2k primer over it?...I need to sand, epoxy then 2k if over a week old?
 
strum456;8163 said:
Barry,

I wasn't aware of any cautions on moving parts with fresh epoxy into the sun right away. What can happen and how hot would it have to get for there to be a problem?

I shot the frame (three wet coats) of vette outside in 90+ degree heat, if the fresh epoxy is held under 140 degrees for first day, you are good to go.
 
Epoxy will bond mechanically or chemically. It seems that most on here agree that a chemical bond to fresh epoxy is best. Has anybody ever seen problems with filler or 2k not bonding well enough to cured, scuffed epoxy? I know, base coat is a different story.
 
What I love about all the tech calls I get, is there is no issue anyone here can have that I have not had a call on, these calls are the greatest tool SPI has to know what is going on with a product and I have heard it all.

One thing I have never had a call on is the issues you just asked about.

Something I did back in 99 or 2000 that you might find interesting.
The 55 Chevy was blasted body and frame at the same time, I epoxied the frame outside and the body inside the garage, the front end I took off in one piece and next day when epoxy was dry I carried the whole front end up to my wifes garage and it sat there for over 90 days while I did the body work and the frame.
The front end only had about four ping dings and a 6 inch area that needed filler, so I applied the glazing putty and the filler to the epoxy without sanding first, sanded and then shot 2K primer over the whole front end without sanding.

Saw the car Saturday while neighbor was pulling whole shots in his driveway for his kids, not a chip or issue of any kind. Great test and real world testing.

I should add, I'm not recommending this and the reason I did it was for own curiosity and I can take the font end off the car in about an hour, if I needed to redo it.
 
Barryk;8186 said:
What I love about all the tech calls I get, is there is no issue anyone here can have that I have not had a call on, these calls are the greatest tool SPI has to know what is going on with a product and I have heard it all.

One thing I have never had a call on is the issues you just asked about.

Something I did back in 99 or 2000 that you might find interesting.
The 55 Chevy was blasted body and frame at the same time, I epoxied the frame outside and the body inside the garage, the front end I took off in one piece and next day when epoxy was dry I carried the whole front end up to my wifes garage and it sat there for over 90 days while I did the body work and the frame.
The front end only had about four ping dings and a 6 inch area that needed filler, so I applied the glazing putty and the filler to the epoxy without sanding first, sanded and then shot 2K primer over the whole front end without sanding.

Saw the car Saturday while neighbor was pulling whole shots in his driveway for his kids, not a chip or issue of any kind. Great test and real world testing.

I should add, I'm not recommending this and the reason I did it was for own curiosity and I can take the font end off the car in about an hour, if I needed to redo it.

funny, when doing the vette, i dropped some filler onto a few week old black epoxy onto an area on the quarter panel that wasn't sanded as i was working on the roof. i couldn't get the blob off!! i though for sure i quick hit with the knife or a flathead and it would come right off.....negative! before i really screwed things up i just ended up sanding it off...lol.

like you say..not recommending applying filler on unsanded epoxy that is out of its window, but thought that was pretty cool.
 
Jeremy,

I have done the same exact thing. If you really get after it with a screwdriver and a hammer, the filler will break and the other half will still be stuck to the epoxy.
 
So....is it necessary to reapply epoxy over existing epoxy, or can I sand the epoxy(which is a few months old) and put 2k over it?
 
thankyou Barry, any advantage to applying epoxy over epoxy and then apply the 2k?...car is indoors and has 2 coats of epoxy on it now...
 
I really can't think of any reason, 2k primer is loaded with iso's, base is not so the 2k has a big adhesion advantage.
 
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