epoxy in sun

thankyou for clearing that up Barry, many on here were suggesting that I reapply my epoxy over existing epoxy, but is sounds like if I sand it with 180 on a d/a and put 2k on top I'll be just as good?
 
danp76;8200 said:
thankyou for clearing that up Barry, many on here were suggesting that I reapply my epoxy over existing epoxy, but is sounds like if I sand it with 180 on a d/a and put 2k on top I'll be just as good?
Click to expand...

Yes, you will be just as good, where the confusion I think comes in, is with bases coats, some base coats do not have the adhesion of other base coats and must be treated differently (if unactivated)
 
Just one more Barry, if the 2k is sanded, and left to sit for several weeks or months, does it need to be redone in 2k to add fress solvent or do I need a coat of epoxy or do I just resand finish and apply activated base?
 
Anytime any 2K primer sets after being sanded, it is always a safe bet to hit with a red or gray scuff pad before painting just to be safe.

A lot of variables here, like temp, hum, when the primer was applied and when the primer was sanded time wise also a big factor. Just not cut and dried, so safe bet would be if sets in a sanded state for 48 hours or more, scuff it real quick.
 
great info. so reduced coat for older epoxy when top coating with paint, not needed for scuffed 2k because solvents help bite into surface. with 2k sitting around for a long time..like years...tape test, scuff seal and go? i am constantly getting asked, "its was primered by so and so's paint shop a while back, cant you just paint it?" there could be rust hiding under anything like that right?
 
Barryk;8207 said:
Anytime any 2K primer sets after being sanded, it is always a safe bet to hit with a red or gray scuff pad before painting just to be safe.

A lot of variables here, like temp, hum, when the primer was applied and when the primer was sanded time wise also a big factor. Just not cut and dried, so safe bet would be if sets in a sanded state for 48 hours or more, scuff it real quick.
Click to expand...

Does this also apply to epoxy being painted on (no 2K), ... will the scuff pad be sufficient on epoxy that was sanded over 48 hours for base or single stage adhesion?
 
Keep in mind that epoxy is like glue, most anything will stick to
fresh epoxy better then anything else.
Even a cured sanded coat of epoxy will give better adhesion if
you spray another coat of reduced epoxy an hour or so before base coating.
That will give the best adhesion.
I started useing epoxy on all my bumper repairs and the difference
in road rash is incredible. It is almost non-existent.
Most all other primers like 2K (urethane) will give satisfactory results
but if you want super adhesion, spray epoxy over your 2k before
painting.
 
If you spray epoxy over 2k isn't it only as durable as its foundation coat?...in this case the 2k?
 
OS,
That is a tough one, depends how on the last coat of epoxy was sprayed, if it was say over a month ago, you would not need to re-sand, assuming it was just sanded in the last week, if sanded before, yes re-scuff to be safe. OVERKILL perhaps but it also depends on base you use, some bases have poorer adhesion then other bases. Fast dry, high in polyesters are the worse, heavy polyol bases are the next best and here is the kicker, the crappy bases stick better then all of them because they are enamel conversions.

SS, not much a concern because of the high amount of ISO's in them.
 
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